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I Forge Iron

Aaron J. Cergol

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About Aaron J. Cergol

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    Milwaukee, WI

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  1. Thanks all for the kind words. Been having an awful lot of fun making these. I'm learning a lot more about the forging process too, especially as it relates to manipulation of material under a power hammer. Forging an anvil, the material is drawn, stretched, upset, fullered...in every plane, and the material changes quite drastically, at least compared to a hammer, which is what I'm usually making. :) Zachary, Once I get the big hammer up and running I'll be making them, though they will not be cheap. A 30#er would run close to what you paid for your German anvil from me. I figure for forg
  2. Hi all, here's a couple of anvils I've forged. Both started out roughly as a cube of material. Can't remember the smaller one, but the larger was a 3" cube of 4140. Working on a French "pig" now-the feet however will be forge welded on. The next larger American pattern I make will be 10-14 pounds and will also be forge welded at the waist. With the addition of a (much) larger power hammer this fall, I plan to make these up to 30 pounds or so. The larger of the two is 5.25 pounds and the smaller is 1.5 pounds.
  3. See you all there! Coming with 5 big German double horned anvils for sale, and close to 75 hammers that I forged. Pending availability of space, planning to set up by Josh (Mr.Fischer man) and Steve (Matchless). Aaron
  4. Hi all, Lately I've been having fun adding some decoration to some of my hammers. Does not take that much extra time, but the thinking does. Figuring out proportions, and the overall "business" of the piece can take some time. I usually don't do much layout work, but if I do, I use a simple fine tip sharpie. Inspiration came from several medieval war hammers. I originally had browned this one using "Dr.Caseys Birchwood plum brown", but decided to lightly polish it. Without furth ado, I give you one of the latest. This decoration was done with three simple tools. these pics ar
  5. Hi all, I've been doing some digging, and haven't come up with much. Looking for some 12" ID double wall flue (stainless or other) I only need double wall sections 3' above and below pass throughs of floor/ceiling, the rest can be single wall. so four 4' sections would do me. Anyone know of sources? I had found a source that advertised "Duratech" (the fancy twist and snap together stuff) 4' lengths, for only $150. I thought that price was too good to be true, well it was. Did some digging about the site it was on, and every review said it was a scam. Called half a dozen local chi
  6. Nice work as per your usual Sir. now just make me up one up for some of my German anvils now...it'd only have to be 2' in diameter. :) Next time you make one, swing by, I have a die filer you can use. Aaron
  7. Where in Milwaukee are you? I'm on the north side, near Capitol Dr. and 1st st. Swing by to my shop sometime and we can talk iron. If you're looking for equipment I usually have some anvils, vises, forges, and tongs kicking around as well. Aaron
  8. oh yes, I'm currently working on one for myself (meaning it might get finished this millennium) It has file work, and will be browned with silver inlay.
  9. Nitiriding, is that similar to case hardening? I heat treated the hammer after doing the chisel and filework as it was 1045. dntfxr; yes, I anneal before any of this begins. after annealing, I pickle in vinegar, or heavily wire wheel the scale off (It KILLS files). Then I go to the belt grinder and prepare the surfaces. I rough it out at 60G and then do a pass of 120 over that. This gets the surface good and even, making it much easier to file on. Another note, after chiseling, and even center punching, the metal will "pucker up" around your design. Be sure to file this smooth after. Oth
  10. Admanfrd-I used 3/8" diameter 4140. Forged it to an octagonal cross section, and tapered the struck end. For planishing tools and more specialty shaped tools I would forge them down to shape and then file/grind, but these chisels I just ground the edges on. Heat treat; brought the business end to non magnetic and threw it in oil. Left the struck end as normalized. I tempered with a small propane torch, heating about half an inch down the shaft from the business end. Watch the colors run until I hit a dark straw. I would usually temper something like this to a bronze, but that proved to be too
  11. Here's the three main chisels/punches I used for this piece. two small straight chisels ov different widths, and a very acute center point of sorts. For cold work, I like the smaller length, it allows me to steady the piece too. I'm working on the anvil, but put a piece of leather over it. Helps to not mar the piece, and helps add a bit of grip as well. For layout work (If I decide to do any) forget a ruler, couldn't get by without these. They give unchanging units of measure, allow you to pick a pin point spot to mark with ease, and make finding harmonious proportions a breeze.
  12. Thanks all for the kind words! I really don't do much layout work, if any, I just file and chisel as I go. I add one element, and see what might look good next to it. I've seen some nice filed hammers, and some beautiful antique ones, so that's where I've drawn some inspiration from. Old Jewelers hammers have some very ornate designs. The chisels I use are very simple. I used 3/8" round, 4140, as that's what I've got a bunch of. I forged it octagonal, with a tapered end for the striking end. I then either forge or grind the chisels and shapes to shape. Heat treat/temper and call it a day.
  13. here's a rounding hammer I just finished up. Head weight is a tick over 3.6#. The handle was requested to be a bit shorter. The handle is antiqued, and has some simple filing near the head to add a little decoration to it to match the status of the head. This one was prettied up with some file work, and with the use of some chisels. The chisels I use for this are itty bitty little things. They're not 3" tall, and are pretty narrow too. When working on a piece cold, I like chisels of this length and size as it allows me to better control the work I'm using it to accomplish. Also, it's nice to
  14. 78sharpshooter was kind enough to pass the sellers info along to me. I am the proud new owner of this machine. I had been talking about a KA75 for the past few weeks quite enthusiastically; as it might work perfect for what I need it for. I wasn't really willing to pay new prices, so was about to start the hunt for a used one, and this one pops up. The universe provides. :) Talked with the owner this AM-real nice fellow to talk iron with. We're figuring out shipping/pickup now. Thanks again 78SS!! Aaron
  15. We own a champion #1 and it is a swell hammer to run, especially compared to my 50# LG. I would say that the Champ hits like a good well tuned 100#LG without a doubt in my mind. The factory brake is a nice benefit, especially with the right amount of tension to really make it grab. It has nice big dies too, as well as a lot of useable daylight for a mechanical hammer of it's size. We've used it for punching and it does well. It has a centered tup, so the use of combination dies will not harm it. I think my only complaint would be; -the orientation of the hammer; Working from the side, it
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