What Design/Drawing Tools Do You Use?

[Gobae]

Since I do like to do reproduction work, for me it's usually the other way around. Usually the client shows up with sketches or photos from archaeological digs and I make "copies".

Even when I do have to make a presentation to a client I typically just use sketches. The learning curve is just too steep on most drawing programs to bother with; especially given the limited number of times I'd use it.

[SmoothBore]

AutoCAD.

It's the most "powerful" tool in the shop.

[Neil Blythin]

I use a drafting table, paper & pencil. The licensing fees are far less than with AutoCad

[FieryFurnace]

Hey there neighbor! You're only about 2 1/2 hours away from me! Maybe I should swing by your shop one of these days. :)

I'd be happy to have you come down sometime. I'm pretty busy now, but things will slow down in a month or so. Shoot me a PM sometime with your email.

I haven't been on the forum much and let this thread get away from me. I noticed though that you said you have a difficult time drawing freehand scrolls. You and I are part of a large crew on the same boat. Freehand scrolls are a headache.

One thing that helped me was the Golden Rectangle. I'm not going to lay it all out here because I don't even remember it all. Basically it's a geometric formula for drawing a perfect rectangle. You can use that formula to draw a series of perfect rectangles, and then use those to draw a perfect scroll. It's like connecting the dots.
Do a google search and an IFI search for the golden rectangle and the golden scroll. You'll find enough info here and there, to figure out how it works.

I used the Golden Rectangle formula to draw some "perfect" scrolls back a year and a half ago. Since then, I have had much greater success in drawing scrolls freehand, because the Golden Rectangle method trained my eye, to an extent, to see a good scroll. I now draw all of my scrolls free-hand.

A light table is also a great help with scrolls.

[Rick Barter]

Will do! Thanks for the information. I am familiar with the Golden Mean, but will look into the information you provided. Thanks!

I'd be happy to have you come down sometime. I'm pretty busy now, but things will slow down in a month or so. Shoot me a PM sometime with your email.

I haven't been on the forum much and let this thread get away from me. I noticed though that you said you have a difficult time drawing freehand scrolls. You and I are part of a large crew on the same boat. Freehand scrolls are a headache.

One thing that helped me was the Golden Rectangle. I'm not going to lay it all out here because I don't even remember it all. Basically it's a geometric formula for drawing a perfect rectangle. You can use that formula to draw a series of perfect rectangles, and then use those to draw a perfect scroll. It's like connecting the dots.
Do a google search and an IFI search for the golden rectangle and the golden scroll. You'll find enough info here and there, to figure out how it works.

I used the Golden Rectangle formula to draw some "perfect" scrolls back a year and a half ago. Since then, I have had much greater success in drawing scrolls freehand, because the Golden Rectangle method trained my eye, to an extent, to see a good scroll. I now draw all of my scrolls free-hand.

A light table is also a great help with scrolls.

[FieryFurnace]

I am familiar with the Golden Mean,

Yeah yeah! I think it has something to do with that too! :D

[SmoothBore]

I use a drafting table, paper & pencil. The licensing fees are far less than with AutoCad

Even though it collected dust for decades, I held onto my Drafting Table, ... and particularly my "Left Hand" Drafting Machine, ... until very recently.

But the ability to change scale, and orientation, ... and particularly the ability to regenerate images, ... saves so much time, and tedious repetition, that using the AutoCAD is simply faster, easier, and more rewarding.

The only people who disdain the use of CAD Drafting Software, are those who have no experience with it.


.

[Gobae]

But the ability to change scale, and orientation, ... and particularly the ability to regenerate images, ... saves so much time, and tedious repetition, that using the AutoCAD is simply faster, easier, and more rewarding.

The only people who disdain the use of CAD Drafting Software, are those who have no experience with it.

Nope not at all. I've had plenty of experience CAD programs but I find them far too time consuming for simple projects. It's more a matter of the "right tool for the job".

[Neil Blythin]

Actually, I have quite a bit of experience doing CAD work, mostly in MicroStation; and think AutoCad is a complete and utter piece of garbage as far as CAD software goes.

Drafting machines are awesome! I just saw that a friend of mine has one tucked in the back of his barn - but they're way too big. The drafting table I use is fairly small - but big enough for my needs (E size paper is the largest I ever use). But for most stuff, I just use 11x17 copy paper - which my own home-office type of photocopier can easily handle.

Perhaps for the same reasons that I like smithing, I much prefer to draw designs by hand rather than staring at a computer screen. Don't get me wrong, CAD soctware does have its uses too ... It's just not the first thing I go to if I need to draw something.

[trying-it]

I use AutoCad, paper/pencil, and such.

In any format I like to use graph paper type background so re-sizing full scale is not that big of chore.

In a class at SIUC last year where we made window grilles and such a small sketch had to be submitted on 8-1/2" X 11" for preview, then expanded full scale for construction. My full size was 28" X 40"

Small sketch was on graph paper and I found a great product for the full size construction pattern.
It is Cement backer board used for behind ceramic tiles and such on walls.
The backer board has 1" squares cast into it for ease of tile laying, but those 1" squares also make transferring 1/8" or 1/4" graph paper sketches a cinch.
Draw your lines in any medium and then white latex paint over for your next project.
Another added bonus is that the cement backer board is fireproof and can withstand the heat from the hot forged items being placed on pattern.

I got a 3' x 5' sheet at Lowes for $5. as it was chipped on 1 corner and had a "reduced" price!

[Rick Barter]

I use AutoCad, paper/pencil, and such.

In any format I like to use graph paper type background so re-sizing full scale is not that big of chore.

I have been unable to find information on how to transfer a drawing to full-scale. Is it just a question of drawing the grid to full scale (e.g. 1') and re-drawing your scaled down drawing in the bigger boxes? I would like to see this demonstrated somewhere. Might you have any links and/or resources to guide me through this? I'm sure we had to do this in art class when we were kids, but, alas, I have forgotten it.

rvb

[Judson Yaggy]

I have a degree in Industrial Design and Drafting, but actually making something in the shop is way more fun so I'm a blacksmith. I've used a number of drafting programs, Autocad is probably tops just because it's what everyone else uses. For serious engineering/manufacturing Solidworks is good if you can afford it ($$$) and the "creative" people all seem to be using Sketch Up right now.

For architectural metalworking the best bet is to give your clients a quick sketch, followed by an artistic (hand drawn) rendering, then a scale drawing of the piece either as a stand alone or inserted into the architectural drawings of the overall project. You should have either a deposit on the job or a signed contract or both before you spend the time to provide anything more than a conceptual sketch. Watch out for people walking away with your design in hand. On larger jobs the design aspect will morph into personal interacton with the architect, that's another kettle of fish.

There is a masssive problem with drafting and CAD in relation to creatively forged metalwork. In a 2d drawing or when using a mouse and keyboard to show a visual idea it is very difficult to express the complex 3 dimensional curves possible when a piece is forged. Add in taperes, texture and surface finish and it will be a very rare designer indeed that can give the feel of a creatively forged piece on a computer screen. The computer based systems just are not set up to portray what we do. Not saying it can't be done, just that like blacksmithing daily practice of free hand drawing will build skill and in time produce a better product.

A few years ago I really XXXXX off an architect by suggesting to him that the popularity of "Contemporary" architecture is in part caused by the fact that it's really easy to draw straight lines on a computer.

[Neil Blythin]

...A few years ago I really XXXXX off an architect by suggesting to him that the popularity of "Contemporary" architecture is in part caused by the fact that it's really easy to draw straight lines on a computer.

That's hilarious! I know a few architects who would blow a gasket if you said that to them ...Hmm, I may have to borrow that one.

[trying-it]

for starters or a quick process review check out "The Grid method of resizing"

at: http://sibleyfineart.com/tutorial--gridding-art.htm

[rthibeau]

Frank....a CAD is a despicable person...r2d2 is a droid from far, far away and a long, long time ago

[Rick Barter]

for starters or a quick process review check out "The Grid method of resizing"

at: http://sibleyfineart...ridding-art.htm

Thanks!

[Gobae]

A few years ago I really XXXXX off an architect by suggesting to him that the popularity of "Contemporary" architecture is in part caused by the fact that it's really easy to draw straight lines on a computer.

Absolutely true! I would love to see a research paper or book on how available tools have affected design throughout the ages. I would say it plays a larger part than most artists/designers admit; especially once that limitation becomes "tradition".

[Frosty]

Good one Judson! Our tools have affected our ability to manipulate out environment and so our lives, products and most importantly how much and what we eat. For instance, when was the last time you used a knapped stone knife? How about a sharp stick to kill food? Or maybe thrown a rock to get dinner?

Of course we evolve as our tools evolve. If it weren't true why bother?

Frosty the Lucky.

[bigred]

I have found progeCAD (google it, you can get a free to use copy at their site) when designing any kind of ornamental work brilliant. Takes an hour or two of work to learn your way around the software but when you have mastered the basics designing any kind of ornamental work is a breeze. A further search for .dwg ornamental CAD files will turn up loads of scaleable ornamental iron products (i.e. those sold by the likes of Brundles) which you can import directly into progeCAD and scale to fit the frame of any wrought iron artefact.
You do not actually need to use the ornamental products, you can simply manufacture them yourself, but it is the flexibility to design ornamental iron work without being some kind of freehand artist, that is the beauty of this method - it may not compare to ornamental pro or fabCAD but it is free while the others range from 300 to 6000 sovs.

I may not have explained myself well here but those of you who do a lot of ornamental work will appreciate how difficult basic design work can be in wrought iron - and then to get that across to the customer unambiguously.

[Rick Barter]

Thanks, BigRed. I'll look into it. Lots of good information in your post!

rvb

[John McPherson]

Nope, but when you use a stick in the dirt, you will be.

[vov222]

I personally use scale for the drawing sketch and i other tools also used but not enough..but it totallu depend upon the client demand how much did he paid for that drawing...but i use scale for all the client demands..

[female_blacksmith]

I use black pen in an A5 sketch book for ideas, then start messing around with grey plasticine to simulate size, method, whether I think it looks balanced, calculate length of steel I might need and then move onto making a sample piece. Most things I make are fairly small though.

[Bob_Nor]

I use CAD often to do this:

-Draw a part

-print out in 1:1 scale

-stick the paper with paper glue stick to the flat raw material of wood/plastic/metal

-punch the marked centers of holes and drill

-cut out along the lines on the paper with band saw

 

This has prooved to be a very fast way to make machine parts. Precision is usualy better than +/- 0,5mm.

For multiple parts I can just print out the needed number of drawings.

 

Bob

[Eddie Mullins]

This is an old thread but an excellent one. Lots of good info here! I'm getting my feet wet with sketchup and drafting / sketching by hand more complex projects, expect questions from me shortly, just doing my homework right now and found this gem.