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I Forge Iron


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About Bob_Nor

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    Hamburg, Germany

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  1. a complete regrind of the vise would be uneconomical, even if I had a surface grinder myself. So I try to repair it to a simpler standard that give a usable vise for my typical not too precise everyday stuff. I just have to get rid of some material that keeps it from lying flat and the jows from closing fully. I will show the result when I have finished the job.
  2. My first try will be to mount it on my ancient tool grinding machine and to try to remove the superfluous material without harming the useful surfaces. But I sill haven't done this step. Bob
  3. Hi Mike, Alexander G. Weygers wrote a lot about making tools in his book I'm sure that this book could inspire you. Bob
  4. Hi Thomas, most areas of the vise is still very hard so a file wouldn't be happy to touch it. I might have a fine stone or a diamond file that fits into the gap to reach the sharp edges. Bob
  5. Hi together, just a short progress report: I welded the vise as I had planned and heated it afterwards 3x to about 410°F. It worked well and the vise holds up to being tightened with a wrench. I want to grind away the sharp crack inducing corners on the other side and remove weld that is above surface level. When I'm finished I will post some pictures as it might help somebody with a similar problem. These electrodes really seem to hold up to what the manufacturer claims! Bob
  6. Hi Frosty, thank you for sharing your experiences and this nice story! So I will attempt the repair this way as soon as I find time and report back how it worked out. Have you noticed the red and black grooves at the sides of the vise? While the vise is very precise in the important dimensions the grooves were cut in in completely different heights. So I made separate clamping nuts for the sides and painted them differently. These russians! Bob
  7. Thank you for you replies! These vises are typically hardened to 60 HRc throughout, probably made from medium to high carbon steel. Stick welding is all I have available. For use on my 60 year old small industrial milling machine I already have a new vise. I would like to use this vise for other things in the workshop a it can be used resting on the ground sides too. It is written off so what ever the repair will manage is welcome - if the repair doesn't work: No big problem.
  8. Hi together, I have a repair job to do where I need some advice: This is a russian precision vise used for grinding and measuring. It came with a quality document that proove it's precision of a couple of µm in important areas. I made the mistake to overtighten the vise and crack it apart. The crack started from a sharp corner and runs right through one side of the vise. The vise has been replaced since with a somewhat bigger and stronger model out of chines production. I wrote "Crack" on the old vise and put it aside but found myself using it frequently because it is so ha
  9. For my wood splitting I also use a bucket full of wooden single- use wedges and a wooden hammer. In a book about green woodworking I read that use shouldn't make the handle longer than 30 inches, otherwise it would tend to vibration. I regarded this (probably too simple) rule and there isn't much shock in the handle. Carpenters often use hammers with steel handles and sink lots of nails with them. The typical german carpenters hammer has a rubberized thick walled steel tube handle, thicker at the end. The amount of rebound is not especially high from my experience.
  10. Sorry, of cause you are right. I mixed up the expressions...
  11. Using O-rings as damping material is a good idea. The damping properties could be changed by varying the number and elasticity of the O-rings. Maybe I'm wrong but the overall design doesn't look as if it has been through a demanding practical test.
  12. The standing frequency of the handle will be lowered if the handle is made thinner. A very stiff handle will have maximus and minimums within the lenght of the hands grip. In this case the position of the hand wouldn't matter very much. My 3kg sledge has a short, fat handle and is extremely uncomfortable to use. Compared to the 5 kg sledge the shape and texture are nearly the same, so the "death grip" argument doesn't count here. Probably the handle of the 3 kg sledge would have to be thinned first to make it tuneable and then the shape and length have to be adjusted to the least vibratio
  13. You are right, I forgot the probably most important part: The lighter the grip, the less shock is transmitted. And the shape of the face also influences the generation of rebound, when the workpiece is not hit straight. Here are som pics to illustrate the topic: My axes It is clear, that the wood handles are not shaped very well. They don't expand to the end, they get slightly thinner. The big 3 kg splitting hammer is a standard type that is sold in Germany in masses. The handles are also quite fat. Maybe the splitting hammer handle is made to withstand inexpert use. S
  14. I earn my money in the office and do quite a bit of different hand work in my spare time, but I'm not really perfectly suited to the hard physical work I tackle. We heat our house partly with wood and in the past my wrists and hands were the body parts that limited my work volume when splitting wood. I then bought a Fiskars plastic handled axe without expecting much and was really astonished to realize, that it had much less rebound in the handle and made splitting wood much easier for me. Fiskars x25 axe The handle is made from fibre reinforced polyamide and is hollow. It won't be p
  15. Sorry, no pics of the straightening process. It is a Rockwell porta-band saw. If somebody had the same problem, I could bring him onto his way to a repair.
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