Glenn Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 What works best to free rusted parts. Everyone has run into parts with lots of rust that should move but do not move any any more. What worked best for you to get things moving again? This question has come up several times in the forum. Let us put it into a thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMIB Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) Equal parts acetone and Dextron/Mercon automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Stir thoroughly then apply with a brush or spray bottle and allow to sit. Works better than any commercial product I've ever tried. Here's some data to support that:Tech Tips: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine "So you deal with a lot of rusty nuts? Go down to the hardware store and buy some acetone, a quart of Dexron Mercon and a refillable spray bottle. In the spray bottle mix the ATF and acetone in a 1:1 mixture. Spray away and get your nuts loose! Independent testing of penetrating oils using a single steel bar with 1/2”x20 nuts torqued to 50 ft/lbs and treated with a 10% salt water solution that was allowed to rust. Listed are the chemicals and required removal torque. -None ………………… 516 pounds -WD-40 ……………… 238 pounds -PB Blaster …………. 214 pounds -Liquid Wrench ….. 127 pounds -Kano Kroil ………… 106 pounds -ATF-Acetone mix….53 pounds " Edited June 16, 2009 by TMIB added text from link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 PB Blaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnptc Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 for threaded parts heat has never failed me......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 For rusted exaust manifold bolts we used Kroll applied to hot manifold Also use brake fluid applied to hot metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitewatchman Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 KROIL! Best I've found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oak Hill Forge Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I have had good results with both PB Blaster and Kroil oil. We use Kroil exclusively here at work, and our facility was built in 1939, so we have plenty of opportunity ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Electrolytic derusting. if that fails---high explosives! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DClaville Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 hm i use Break free made for it and also for guns and such works nice spray it on and then let it sit for a day or so. and then give it some work/movement DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobc Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Use a 50% diluted phosporic acid on the rust and apply every hour or so. Then apply deisel fuel and an application of brass or lead hammer to shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Ameling Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 For small things, I just soak it for a few hours in household vinegar. That vinegar will just flake the rust right off - including scouring out the rust from the pits in the metal as well. Amazing stuff! For bigger things I've used the WD-40 and Liquid Wrench stuff. A couple applications over a couple days seems to loosen things up. But the best stuff dad ever got came from an electrician working for the power company. They were replacing a lightning zapped transformer, and he offered dad some of the fluid from inside that junked transformer. Don't know what it was, but that stuff worked great on old farm machinery! Since then I've heard that it contains those PCB's. So I stick with vinegar and WD-40. Mikey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmercier Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 for non-threaded things, like freeing up old hand crank drill presses and the like, I just use a lot of wd-40 over time, for threads that are rusted up, i like liquid wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oak Hill Forge Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 so typical ! Ask 6 Blacksmiths a question and you will get 8 right answers ! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 And another variation!!!! I use Marvel Mystery Oil!! give it a good soak and things usually come loose. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I found a lot of pieces of bar threaded at the ends and with nuts totally siezed on. They really are totally rusted solid. I keep these in a corner of the shop. When I have finished forging I just lay a couple in the dying fire and leave them. They generally get to a good red. Once they have been heated I simply remove the nut which by that stage san often doesn't even need a wrench. Grease them and put them away for future use. I have done hundreds now and it always works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnptc Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 :):) and nothing to buy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldiron Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I've had the best results using a 50/50 mix of Brake Fluid and ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). For getting bolt/stubs that have broken off in cast iron because of rust; I weld a washer and nut to the bolt/stud, let cool and remove with a wrench. The heating then cooling of the metal will break it loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondacker Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I find that if you can get a torch on the the troubling nut or bolt and heating to a good red hot then quickly cooling to the touch works good, Sometimes have to repeat this but have never seen it fail. Old equipment with fine threads are big pain to get loose, this heat treatment gets the job done and during the reinstall coat with grease. I also save the old grease cartridges and clean them out keeping the unused grease for this work as well as applying to screws in wood projects. The other suggestion are good ones too and will have other means of breaking stuborn nuts and bolts loose in the future. Adirondacker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GobblerForge Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 If getting the parts hot is not an option but getting them warm is then get the parts as warm as possible and melt some wax on it. The wax wicks into the seam and lubricates well. If it's a tight screw or something small, a soldering gun works great to spot heat. Gobbler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucegodlesky Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Tranny fluid and heat for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 (edited) Everything I've used thus far, in no particular order. -Liquid Wrench (hard to beat) -PB Blaster (really gets into tight areas) -CRC 3-36 (Wish I had more of it, great stuff, most all CRC products are great) -WD-40 -Marvel Mystery Oil (awesome, but takes some time) -ATF (Great for long soaks to remove even coating of rust) -vinegar (fast, but will remove more than needed sometimes!) -used motor oil (slow soak) -kerosene -diesel fuel Edited June 17, 2009 by keykeeper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 17, 2009 Author Share Posted June 17, 2009 Thank you for all you comments and keep them coming. We can refer to this thread and bring some neglected tools back to life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimenickel Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 usta use liquid wrench ..but now PB blaster beat that hands down.. tried all the home remedies.. there for the most part useless.. from kero to atf, to hot wax, to citric acid.. etc if the pb doesn't work in a couple days... then heat with torch by the way...if your going to test ... then allow the rust to occur under natural conditions for 15 years... then apply the treatments.... otherwise i can't see a salt water test to be applicable ( as i've never had anything sit in salt water ).... maybe the results are good for folks that live in coastal areas..;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 The problem being that some places the natural conditions are pretty lenient---I picked up 100+ feet of 1" dia wrought iron that had been used to hold together a cistern after the 1906 quake here in Socorro NM. It had been in place, outside, 100 years and was held together by threading the ends and using nuts over cross plates. I removed the 100 years outdoor nuts using my regular adjustable wrench, no oil, heat or witchcraft needed. Back in Ohio I'd probably have to torch them off after 50 years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimenickel Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 100ft of 1" wrought in good shape.. that is Fantastic .. and i get excited over a half worn out slaggy wagon wheel.. wish my luck would change:) were the fasteners made of wrought aswell.. .. might be cool to polish one up and etch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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