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I Forge Iron

GobblerForge

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Everything posted by GobblerForge

  1. They are also used on grader blades called scarifiers. The tips are carbide and can not be forged. If they are brazed on then they will come off when you heat them in the forge. I tried. The steel is some pretty good steel. I don't know what. Gobbler
  2. I've used the vertical hole method with two variations. One uses a hole drilled in the hearth and a hole drilled deep into the lentil, as recommended earlier. The other used a hole drilled into a plate. The plate was then pinned to the hearth with rivets for pins. Gravity does the rest. The one problem I have with anchors that put internal pressure on the hole sides is they can and have broken masonry. Stone compresses great but fails with tension. Gobbler
  3. Make the broach out of file steel and then harden in bacon grease. No tempering required. I've made lots of them this way and not a one has broken. Perhaps the side worn toward the body could be the strike surface and not mar the show side. Gobbler
  4. I have noted over the years that forging on rainy days, when the humidity is in the 90's, that I have more difficulty getting the fire as hot. I attribute this to there being more water in the fire, thus cooling. On dry days it's a little easier to forge and work the fire. On a related note, my shoulders hurt more when I work on a rainy days as well. Gobbler
  5. Localised heat and bent by hand I would think. Gobbler
  6. I have a box of those cartridges in my collection. I would like to see the tool that does this job. Sounds frightening. I've only seen drawings of it.. Gobbler
  7. Just a thought, but I would consider finding out what some of these old tractor parts are worth to the tractor collecting community. You may find that selling the parts to a collector or dealer may make more money and will buy more stock than the tractor produces. Gobbler
  8. When the gallery gets running again, look in Gobblerforge gallery. I used hydraulic parts to build my tire hammer. Gobbler
  9. I made my apron 18 years ago out of a deer hide. No problems yet. Gobbler
  10. My hooks actually swivel. The lady that took the photos positioned them to her liking for the pic. Gobbler
  11. I tend to hang my horse shoes at an angle so a little luck spills into the shop. Here's my signs. The wood sign is portable to hang at demos. Gobbler
  12. On the topic of hardening and tempering, I would say yes to both. The time that the hot steal is in contact with the hardy isn't enough to take out the hardness. There is a lot of mass there. Gobbler
  13. As Ironstein said, wrapping a chain around the waist of the anvil a time or two will absorb vibrations. Don't over tighten the chain. It works better if lose. In the pic you can see I use the lower chain to hold the anvil to the stump and the upper chain to quiet the anvil. When people ask why, I tell them it's just a mean anvil and I have to hold it back. Gobbler
  14. 150lbs. With stump, chain and tools, right about 200. Gobbler
  15. WD40 won't hurt anything. Any oil is good. Some are just better. Gobbler
  16. front left foot under horn.

  17. You are correct. I meant forged steel, not cast steel. I don't know what I was thinking there.
  18. On this particular anvil I suspect you will find the weld line about mid-waist. It should be all cast steel the entire top half of the anvil. HB started doing this in about fall 1908. They were experimenting with different methods at that point in time so I would expect to find different examples. Gobbler
  19. Condratulations, Grampaw. That is as cool as it gets. Gobbler
  20. If we can get the serial number, it can be dated. If it is a HB and has the center weld line, then it is most likely 1909 or after. Gobbler
  21. He didn't say edge. He said the whole bottom was wore flat. By what? Wouldn't it have to be on something moving for a long time to wear flat? I just don't get it. I've seen hundreds of anvils, same as a lot of folks here, but never saw one where the bottom was worn. Only the top. Gobbler
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