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I Forge Iron

Shalev Zohar

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About Shalev Zohar

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    Mainly drawing, I'm trying to make some music. I read, play video games and watch some shows

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  1. I think I'll do good by messing with the sword tapor and pommel weight & length, I'm patient enough to not get it right first or second time. I don't know what you consider hard but this sounds pretty hard. The best I can do is hand wrap it with some tention, I don't have any dedicated tools. if it wouldn't do I can stick to wood. I'm not fond of all metal gray rapiers, I think of casting some brass parts and brass covering some metal parts to get some more color. If anything, the sword will at least look good. Can you combine bronze or brass into your wires and make it look good?
  2. One point that didn't come up here is your anvil; If you have a light/unfastened anvil/aso, its give might steal a major slice of your strike power. I've had this happen to me with my first 7kg aso, things weren't moving as fast as they should, especially in upsetting, because the whole thing was moved by my swings. My heavier new aso's have less of this problem. I don't know what you hammer on but if it's light at least give it a proper stiff stand. Might improve your speed a lot
  3. Harmonics are my main concern; I'm sure they won't be as good as they can, and I find it hard looking for tips on them. I'll generally try my best with tapers and weight distribution and hope the harmonics will come with it. Grips are my stronger side, wire wrap might be harder than it seems. In regards to the design I'm thinking about switching to a sidesword, might be easier. Not fatigued, it was kept as replacement and didn't see much action, only collected some rust. I'll still buy new stock if I find good ones, but overboard is a lot of shipping costs and over here it's
  4. I'm no master, all forging projects I do are first times. I mess up a lot and take much longer due to lack of experience. I cracked knives in water quenching and burnt them in the forge, I dropped hot metal, made my fair share of rebar things that shouldn't be rebar and got burnt and cut. I'm no noob either. I've put in the years and experiments. I used what I have and forged a wide array of tools and weapons. I love forging and I love learning. I'll never make the same thing twice. It's a tough project but I came here to learn, I've already got much needed advice and changed my plans majorl
  5. I dropped the need to upset, no way it'll work. 5mm is thick enough and I have a longer piece I can use. I wanted 7mm in the base because it's normal in both swords and rapiers, I wanted extra material for the grinding and I wanted extra rigidity to both keep it from bending or breaking, in the quench or in use. Of course I'll do a distal taper. Trust me with not quenching the thing in water, although can't say I didn't tortured knives like that in the past... Why is fishmouth easier? I've never heard such thing. I'll forge the distal taper, tang and tip, maybe the fuller too, b
  6. Just did in some 2.5/1 ratio while making tongs, it shroomed a little and not much trouble beyond that except for the usual taking lots of time. You're correct, upsetting 8/1 ratio (what I hoped for) would be impossible; With a dedicated tool maybe, but still a worthless struggle. 5mm is still enough for the sword, yet I am looking for alternatives WHY? You are equating using a leaf spring that survived a flex test to make a sword that'll be responsibly handled, to killing myself. I've searched on other sites and it seems like many people did it and almost nobody ran into probl
  7. I don't know this system, I believe you and next time I will search more. It's weird but Google works in mysterious ways.
  8. I'm not at my home right now but when I come back I'll be sure to search for some new metal first thing. If I find a good buy I'll take that, but shipping is always a problem and no price will be better than none. I stood on the leaf and curved it a few nice degrees, it was perfectly springy and shown no issues. even if I'll choose to work with the leaf, I'll test quench a piece first so the sword won't be too brittle, search for cracks, hit some things when it's not sharp and I'm fully protected and do a controlled bend test to see if it brakes. If it doesn't fail it shouldn't fail later, unl
  9. That'll mean multiple topics for such a long project, isn't there a way to keep it to one place? My spring was kept as a replacement one, but I don't know how much use it saw before that. Can you detect the microfractures after polishing? I have enough spare to make a test piece for the heat treating. I have the time and spare metal to risk a break, but I'll check into new steel, if it's not too much cost for both the metal and shipping I'll consider it. My options are: Make a tool for upsetting and procceed as planned/ try working with what I have and maybe still make it
  10. Thank you, and sorry for asking something that has already been answered. I tried doing many searches like this but it seems like searching inside the site was a bad idea and outside probably didn't use the correct keywords. I tried doing your search but had to modify it to make it work. This is unfortunate for me because I'll have to find workarounds, but I do have some. now that the topic is not as relevant is it commonplace to take it down?
  11. Hey, me again! Not much progress with the sword, as to be expected. I'm still setting up the new place, I will hopefully make a killer forge in a week, and then some tools to pile up. This is the problem: I want to make a sword with a base thickness of 5-7mm, base width of 2.5-3 centimeters and length of at least one meter, and a lot of extra material to grind because I don't trust myself enough with making clean forging work in there. I've got a 5mm thick 6cm wide 70cm long piece of spring steel. to get both higher thickness, length and take advantage of the axcess width I wa
  12. Can't make a belt grinder, it will be practically harder than a sword for me. I'm also less interested in messing with electronics and such. Building a gas forge that will let me get even heat will be less practical than finding one that already exists. I forge on my free time and give away forged stuff to my friends because I just enjoy forging. My free time is very limited and I won't use it for stuff I don't enjoy. I will however try making simpler tools that require only forging, maybe some tongs and hammers. Don't know how practical it'll be because the shop I'm intending to join will pro
  13. I'll be happy if the sword is made in less than a year, I take that as a long term project (like all my projects. my first knife waited a year until I put a handle on it) , I'm in no rush. Although I like to take shoutcuts I won't risk my health for a sword, at least when I know there is a risk...
  14. Rapiers tend to go bananas (literally) by the slightest mistake before the heat treat, that's why mine will be extra thick and short. The main problem probably is that a Rapier won't fit in your average kiln... That is unless you bend it in two while in the kiln and straighten it back right before the quench! (A terrible idea for many reasons) SWORDS DO NOT MAGICALLY TURN INTO FRUIT
  15. I never assumed, I need to use these tools to cover my lack of experience and free time, I want to try larger things and don't have the patience to wait until I can do it with what little tools I have now
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