Frosty

Johnny: I had a more thorough reply Forbidden yesterday and forgot to save it first. <sigh> Search under gas forges, it'll turn up, I didn't post it as plans or instructions just a concept sketch for an old style. Yesterday I suggested using ceramic blanket refractory to line your forge. Place the burner in the center aimed at an angle rather than directly at the far side. Find a professional plumber's torch like you'd see working on an industrial site, etc. You can buy a proper propane regulator off the shelf in Alaska for around $25.00 at the Propane distribution show room. Amerigas by name in Wasilla Ak. I've been working on a newer T burner and MUCH easier construction method but haven't gotten it tweaked nor drawn up. Soon though. Teenylittlemetalguy has making 1/2" T burners honed to a fine science, maybe he has some pics or drawings. I suppose if you wanted to waste a huge amount of time you could sift through my posts, I've described making the current style a few times. I'd just do it again but I'm a TBI survivor and have enough trouble staying on one track so if I start describing how to make the old version I'll get lost and mix it up with the newer one. I know that sounds evasive but it's how my brain works now. On the other hand if you get stuck on something I can trouble shoot without confusing myself. Frosty The Lucky.

What do you have in it for a refractory liner? What is the chamber volume and what size Side arm is it? Frosty The Lucky.

What they said. Keep it simple and non-gimmicky, a pro doesn't need gimmicks. While you're playing with double Fs consider two font sizes and arranging them creatively. If done correctly you might be able to suggest a helm in a small enough touch mark. For an off the top thought. A slanted F resembles the visor and eye slit, so how about another F that starts at the bottom of the eye slit and extends above to represent a pennon or crest? It's obviously a double F, however looked at a certain way suggests a helm. If you point the out resemblance the viewer's mind will fill in the bits to make it look like a helm. Just a thought though, the more I reread my idea the less I like it. Nothing new there. Frosty The Lucky.

I saw every episode first season watched the pilot and never missed an episode. Have you seen the Star Trek pilot? Pike was captain of Enterprise and Spock was 1st. officer, not science officer. Scenes were worked into a later episode with Pike in a powered chair. I don't recall the title. Spock's character as sans emotions was over acted to the hilt and toned down much better after the pilot was bought. You better bet we watched Trek, it was the most advanced Sci fi on 1960's TV with lots of social commentary. Alan Dean Foster was a regular writer as were a number of other Sci Fi authors, at one time they even consulted R.A. Heinlein. I think perhaps about "Stranger in a Strange Land." It was a contemporary novel though nobody I knew got Heinlein's tongue in cheek message. Uh, yeah though I wouldn't call myself any more fan than the average kid of the 60's. Frosty The Lucky.

Nice score Sparks. Any modern grease is good, Re Charles. No need for fancy grease, it'd probably be happy with lard. I'm not recommending lard but it'd work fine though you might have the neighborhood dogs hanging around. Of course you could tell some great tall tales about, the dog packs that kept your leg vise licked clean. Frosty The Lucky.

Are you using Mike Porter's burner design? I believe type 4 was his latest. Frosty The Lucky.

A wet tea bag makes a good compress for burns though Aloe Vera works better, I keep a squeeze bottle close when playing with hot stuff. You ought to try cleaning ice plant out of wheel wells. While my vehicles have never had the experience of the ice plant arrester system I've helped a friend who ditch dived at 70mph. Talk about packed tight, he was digging the stuff out for 3 days. Ice plant is REALLY good stuff to fill medians with, minimizes head ons at freeway speed. Frosty The Lucky.

That'll work fine Jim. You'll find you have better control if you put a regulator on but it's not necessary. Propane and air don't mix as well as NG and air. You'll get a more even flame if it has longer to mix. Putting the T with the gas injector between the air supply hose and the iron so the air fuel has to go around the 90 will really help mixing. The best propane gun burner I know of injects the propane into the blower's impeller and provides a very nice complete burn. I can't recommend you inject the propane in the hose or blower because I don't think it's propane rated. In fact I highly discommend injecting propane in front of the steel pipe. It's better safe than sorry when messing with potentially explosive stuff. On that thought it occurred to me we don't know where your forge is. I can see the roll up doors in the picture but you said you're moving yes? You MUST have good ventilation a gas forge consume a LOT of oxy and produces lots of carbon monoxide CO. Excellent ventilation is okay but not too much. I don't do much forging in winter as I don't like opening the shop to the cold and like breathing CO even less. Frosty The Lucky.

Oh there are a lot more than 140 Characters subscribed to Iforge Guns! I don't have anything to add to Gun's advice. And yes please put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI gang live within visiting distance. Well, okay I do have a couple things to add. If the word "antique" is spoken don't let it be YOU! It ain't an antique, it's just old and old isn't worth extra anything to a working tool. I'd take a close look at the mark between the hardy hole and the center of the face. It might be a trick of the light but it might be a torch gouge too. If it's a torch gouge the anvil's value is half if you're generous. The edges look fine, even the chips aren't going to hurt it as a tool. Once you've used it a year or two is the time to think about dressing the edges. Oh shoot, I have to go to dinner now. It's Deb and my 19th. anniversary. I'd like to talk more but. . . Frosty The Lucky.

There's another concern, propane is a much more chemically reactive. Your regulators, valves, hoses, etc. must be propane rated or they'll degrade eventually. By eventually that's MUCH faster than they would under normal use. A gun/blown burner can use most any flammable gas if you adjust the fuel air ratio. Depending on the burner type it may be as simple as changing the jets or a more thorough conversion. In some case home builds usually, simply changing the gas pressure will do it. I'm not making predictions for your burner but in general conversion isn't difficult. Just change out anything that contains rubber for safety's sake. Locally a 0-30psi propane regulator runs $25.00 +tax a gauge runs in the $10 - $15 range, depending on where you look. The real wallet bite is the hose. Frosty The Lucky.

Don't blame me Charles, darned near everything has cut me before, I've gotten some dang painful cuts from PAPER and goodness pick up a can lid just a little bit wrong!! "Constant exposure results in some degree of contamination." Mr. Spock. Frosty The Lucky.

Over reaction? What, the cattle don't come by anymore? Wasn't that idea or am I missing something? Frosty The Lucky.

Ah, a torture chamber then. No it isn't unless maybe you have an induction forge and don't oil quench. Frosty The Lucky.

Ayup, that's how they work. Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks, lost in antiquity works for me. Now I can speculate wildly and not look any dumber than anyone else! My first thought was a blade catcher not really a "sword breaker" but similar. Were one to parry a blade with the Kukri held perpendicular and slid against the guard it might be possible to catch the other blade between the guard and notches for a disarm. Hmmmm? Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Ashton, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI gang live within visiting distance. Yeah the HB has been ground flat probably seriously reducing it's lifespan if not damaging it. The PW looks to have a pretty thin face too and with the chipping on the edge I'd expect to see more wear or sway in the face. I don't have a strong opinion about this one like I do about the HB. What makes me jumpy is the fellow has all those anvils and is selling the one he's shined up. He's also pretty careful to take pics from angles where the weld line between face and body is, like he doesn't want one to see how thin the face is. Were I in the market I might take a look and rebound test them but It'd have to be a short drive. Frosty The Lucky.

Diamond blades and core barrels aren't hard and are made to resist work hardening. Concrete blades are probably about as hard as diamond blades are going to get. This is because concrete is pretty soft but contains abrasives in the form of sand. The diamonds for concrete are pretty coarse and tend to chip rather than grind. The cement component is actually soft so particles get ripped out and are carried up past the blade where they can wear the blade. The blades themselves rely on things like chrome for hardness as it's more abrasion resistant than carbon. Diamond saws and core barrels are kind of counter intuitive, the harder the rock the softer the barrel matrix. The diamond is what wears/cuts the stone so it's important it is exposed while being protected from being "pried" from the matrix. If the matrix (the metal blade's edge or core barrel bit) is made by sintering with diamond of specified grit included. The sintered edge is the matrix supporting the diamond cutting agent. If the barrel is cutting soft material the cuttings wear the matrix and pop the diamond grit out so the matrix needs to be harder. If on the other hand the stone is hard it's important to keep diamonds exposed and the cuttings will be much finer so the matrix needs to be softer so new diamonds are exposed as old ones wear. Sawing extremely hard stone say Hawaiian blue granite, gemstones, etc. the matrix holding the diamonds is typically a bronze alloy and the diamond grit very fine. Making knives from diamond saw blades is the rough equivalent of making knives from carbide saw blades. Probably okay as a flexible component of a pattern welded billet but not likely to hold an edge long or well. Frosty The Lucky.

You're a barrel of fun Smoothbore. Triage is a preliminary sorting process, especially useful for large quantities of things. For instance a quick sort of scrap for Steel, Aluminum, cast iron. Toss pieces by type in one of three piles and it's been triaged. A loader moves the cast iron to one rail car and the aluminum to another while you toss select pieces from the steel pile in your pickup. The first fast unfussy sort is the triage. The scrap company doesn't have all day for you to go through the whole pile piece by piece but will let you do a hasty sort. You get to choose some of the choice steel scrap while they get the aluminum, cast iron and steel separated for them. It doesn't have to be perfect just fast. Triage is also important in hospitals with mass casualties, say a commuter train wreck: #1 people who need immediate care but can be saved. #2 people who can wait. #3 people who aren't going to make it. It lets medical personnel concentrate their energies where it counts most most. Frosty The Lucky.

I have trouble imagining this guy is anything but a lab tech, he certainly doesn't know enough to attempt any of the things he's asking about. We used to get new lab techs in the materials lab and they were all full of "good" ideas for mix designs and new test methods. They were usually early enough in training they had no idea what a representative sample meant or why consistent results were important. Yeah yeah, I know I were one! You typically spent a couple years running gradations before they let you start learning mix design. A year if you already had an appropriate degree. Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard Johnny I'd say hi properly but my greeting got Forbidden It's a platform problem. I'll get back soon. Frosty The Lucky.

Heat the coupons in a hydrogen atmosphere? What is the purpose of these experiments? Hydrogen contamination is something most professional steel workers and plants avoid. Frosty The Lucky.

Pics are good. You have a question? Frosty The Lucky.

You might get a LITTLE better deal than M. I'll bet he's not near as cute. Frosty The Lucky.

Oh yeah, that's a cover art cattle crossing and gate. Beautiful use of excess material far better destiny than the scrapper. I like the dog's expression like s/he's asking you if you think that's going to slow him/er down. Silly human. Frosty The Lucky.