pkrankow

Apparently most hardie holes are not even perpendicular to the face of the anvil. They are made with a sand core during casting and the sand will move some as the hot steel flows around. This is based on what I have read, my anvil is broken at the hardie. Phil

Wouldn't small size square stock tool steel cost less than drill rod since no grinding step is done? Would the corners be such a detriment for TIG welding? Just a thought Phil

Pretty. Can't wait to see what you use for a handle. Please picture something to reference for size too. Thanks Phil

Myloh, they make a fastener like that. I don't know if it comes that big though. The smaller ones I have used have course threads for directly driving into a properly sized hole in wood or stone, but I only ever needed 1/4-20, and never looked for bigger. Phil

Since the forum was down all weekend I read much of the Hofi series of blueprints (numbered 1000+) there is an interesting blueprint for a side draft hood. What you got looks like it is working as well as the pics in the Hofi blueprint. Phil

I like the pouch you made too. Very handy looking. Phil

Do cherry pits work like corn? They are sold as stove fuel at times around here. Granted I am building a gasses and not a solid fuel forge, but I can always build another forge later. Phil

1 bar = 14.5037738 pounds per square inch per Google so .2 bar =about 3 psi. Nice. Using google to do conversions is awesome. Phil

Sinks are "mild" and not very hardenable since they are drawn metal. I'm sure there is a use for them. Might make nice slack tubs. Phil

Nice design. It will be nice to see the finished project. If you are worried about the center: 3 panels? Center panel larger than end panels. Or you could make the screen taller than the fireplace to reduce the opening in the center. With free standing screens having a thicker bottom to weight it a bit is nice. Phil

Frosty, that's what a "work cell" is all about. Efficient. Phil

I almost forgot, right now it stands 44 inches to the shelf. That may change some before I am done, but it seems a comfortable height. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f86/how-high-your-forge-your-stand-up-smithy-13549/ Phil

started a new thread: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f86/my-gasses-its-way-13876/#post128124 Phil

I found some articles and some pics on twisting flat stock to make tongs. Blacksmithing Tips - How to Forge a Pair of Tongs Make steel Forging Tongs Any opinion on if this is easier/better for a first/temporary set than making out of round or square? I know better tongs can be made with added skill out of round or square stock. Phil

Nice job. Wheels look like they belong. Phil

I need to post more pics, the forge shrank to a 2 burner, 11 inches long. The ribs of the drum made squishing...difficult. Shorter the ribs made squishing easy as the edge could be rolled over more to hold everything in place. Estimated final internal volume is 370 cu in. I used pop-rivets to make a shelf support and brace it into shape with the extra metal from being shorter. I mounted it to its cart a few days ago. I ran some carriage bolts through the shell and into a metal shelf, leaving an airspace between the shell and shelf. Seems to work quite nicely. Yes, valving is going to be installed, but I am unsure if an idle circuit is needed, I have read mixed reviews. The complexity and cost is not very high, so I may put it in. I can choose to not use it if don't like it. Would there be any reason to run the back burner with the front burner off? Cost would be 1 valve if I kept the main shutoff. Would using larger T's, say 3/8 or even 1/2 inch, to manifold the burners and act as a small receiver tank ensure even gas pressure to multiple burners? Or is using 1/4 inch fittings to the 1/8 inch ID tubing already doing enough of that? I have read several complaints of having to fiddle with the pressure after changing the number of burners in service. Is fiddling with the pressure more a function of the change in back pressure to the burner from extra mass injected into the forge? The muffler sealant I used in the burner will turn to a ceramic material at temperature. It is non-toxic after it is brought to temperature once, but does have some funky solvents in it. I figured it wouldn't hurt, and it is recommended on mantle lanterns to ensure that the fuel/air mix goes where it needs to. In retrospect, since this is where the fuel mixes with the air, I understand why it is not necessary. Still need to order insulation, but I am rebuilding the front end of my mother-in-laws cavalier: hood, head lights, radiator, condenser. It's funny how high the bumper is on SUV's:(, how easily a small car can miss the bumper:o, and how quickly hobby money gets reassigned:confused:. Happily no injuries. Phil

some info on tuning this burner: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f86/trying-build-first-gas-forge-13680/ Phil

Police arrest this mugger! er, nice deal Phil

Slick! Fine adjustment! Phil

I agree with Frosty. I just read about this stuff and O2 is the problem. Not sure how to fix it. Copper is annealed in either an oxygen free atmosphere or a vacuum during production, pending the final use. Most us us do not have access to a high temperature bell jar to control atmosphere gasses. You only need something like 800F for a few hours (look up for yourself please) so an electric kiln may work being fed from a nitrogen bottle. No promises so try a sample first. May still be scrap. Phil

Wow, what an idea! My anvil was pre-broken across the hardie and pritchel. I'll consider drilling a hole. Phil

If it is stainless, my guess is a 300 series as it has a dull appearance and rust spots. Stainless does not mean it won't rust, or that it is non-magnetic. It just means it has chromium in a certain range of percentages in it. Even passivised many stainless steels will have a dull appearance, but good overall corrosion tolerance. Use it for feet on a stand, drilled and threaded to be adjustable. Would make a good doorstop too. It's probably "mild" and not hardenable. Stainless is typically harder than mild, but tends to not get much harder. Since it is hex stock it probably was intended for a supporting part and not a cutting device or a machined shaft. I tried turning some cuff links out of 300 series stainless, came out like *%$#. I was inspired by some I saw in silver. Looked sorta ok at first, but became quite dull in appearance. Very difficult to cut clean threads in due to its hardness. Tapping went a little better, but not very good. The surface finish was lacking too. A friend used the rest of the bar to make some pommels for stage weapons a few years later. He ended up painting them because they didn't look like he wanted either. I'm sure you will find some good use for it. It may be hard enough to use as a mini anvil or positive form swage the way it is until you find a better use. Phil

Once your pics are on your computer where you can find them, start your post and then click "go advanced." It's rather user friendly. On the new page is a button "manage attachments" click on it. Click "browse" and find your pics then click upload. If you have more than a few, preview post then repeat. Phil

Bigfoot, I've never scraped a table top. I seem to end up doing detail work like cleaning pinrails for refinishing, or molding with several funny curves. Larger scrapers make a mess on small stuff like this. On this small scale, dig in is not a problem (for me). I do want a good set of scrapers, and picked up some worn industrial hacksaw blades, thick and about 2 inches across. I haven't needed anything larger than broken glass though, so I haven't bothered making the scrapers yet. Phil