Binesman

I havent spoken/read german in 20+ years and that does not look like the high german i learned. If you can read the bag the primary thing youre looking for is it can handle temps up to 3000f

Blue=ceramic fiber blanket (kaowool or other brand) green=castable refractory (kastolite, mizou, etc.) Red=kiln wash (matrikote, plistex)

A single 3/4" forge burner can usualy reach 150k btu. I dont know jack about furnaces but im guessing the differance in heat means the burner design is way off from what you want for a forge. Start from scratch you can make a frosty burner for about 20US and if you post pictures he will most likely help you tune it.

I put matrikote on top of kastolite...heat up takes a few more minutes (i have added thermal mass this should happen) it gets hotter. I can make sparklers with the matrikote i couldnt without it. My forge holds its heat longer and once to temp holds heat with much less fuel. On top of all that matrikote holds up to flux better the kastolite. So please dont put it under put it on top.

Your at the very litnfor whatbyour burners can heat id recomend goung to 1" burners or better yet putting down a 1" layer of kastolite30 on the floor and area the burners will hit and a 1/4" coating around the rest ofnthe forge reducing your heating area and addimg in better thermal mass

Mark i built my forge as 2 1" layers of ceramic blanket ridgidizes with fumed silica/water a 1" layer of kastolite 30 then painted on a layer of matrikote90ac that was about sourcream consistancy(mixed a little thicker than its supposed to be). It works just fine the forge gets hotter than before i added the matrikote and holds its heat much better. It does seem to take a few more minutes to come to heat but that is to be expected when you add any amount of thermal mass. The one thing i have noticed that is different from a forge that has matrikote added directly to the blanket is that when you bump the walls with your work the matrikote scrapes off of the kastoloite easier than it does the blanket.

I believe you are referring to the T burner not truck. Its pinned under the gas forges section. I do not remember the exact title but it says frosty T burner in the title.

Need a little more info on your burner to say anything. What design are you using? What size pipe diameter and length? What are you using for a flame retainer? also with your forge you said tou where closing up the backend. Just to clarify you do intend to still leave a pass through correct?

I forgot to add it drains a 20# tank in about 2 hours. Compare that to the 8 or so hours i get with my current forge and any money you think youre sabing you arent.

I believe the weed burner your speaking of is the one in this photo. It works but you need to keep a fan on it so that it doesnt pull in hot air and choke itself out. And it blackens the crap out of the metal. And it doesnt get all that hot (although some of that may have been the crappy forge it was attached to). For the same price you can build a tburner and buy a cheap 0-20 psi regulator off of amazon.

Placing the burner in the side is not realy feasable as we will each be on a different side of the forge meqning one persons work will be up against the flame. What would you recomend as minimum height mikey?

My son has gotten to the point he wants to work on projects "alone" just with supervision. My plan for this is to build a new rectangular forge so that i can work from one end while he works from the other. Dimensions id like to build it to are 8" wide by 3" high by 15" long with a 3/4" t burner placed at 5" from each end (2 burners total) centred and pointing straight down. Reason for it being so wide is so that we will both have full length use of rhe forge when working opposite sides. My questions are this. 1. Is 3" enough room for the burner to not impenge on the floor or should i make it a little taller. 2. Is there better positioning for the burners then centered and vertical 5" from each oppening. (keeping in mind this is being designed for two people to work at once). 3. I know cubic inch to heat ratio i have way more than needed however with this length and only being anle to partial close each side do you think 2 burners is enough or should i go up to 3?

Pearlite will work as a have to use it now and have no other option. I watched youtube and followed the so called experts for my first forge and built a pearlite/sodium silicate one. It would last for about 10 hours of working before id have to patch it up. I only used as long as i had to while waiting on supplies to make a proper forge with supplies from wayne and advice from the good people here.

Just spray down your blanket with water first. It being wet will alow the rigidzer to penetrate deeper.

Dont use pearlite its cant hold up to the temps for any extensed period of time. Ceramic blanket coated in kastolite coated in metrokote.

Use metrikote90 in place of itc100 far superior product at a fraction of the cost wayne coe sales it at a reasonable price

I use metal distributors (i believe they are a chain as there are 3 or 4 within 2 hoirs of me) i get 1/2" x 2" 1095 for $6 a foot 304stainless at 3.50 a foot

Rigidizer is fumed silica+water personally i do about 30/70 ratio. Hardface best i've found is matrikote 90. The internet sells this at a very reasonable price.

If you are set on that burner put new holes in the same vertical axis but at a 90degree change on hirizontal axis. Doubling your air intake holes. If you have the tools and are willing switching to a tburner as suggested is a great idea. If you like the reil style and want to stay with it but are willing to start from scratch i would recomend following his design closer https://www.abana.org/ronreil/design1.shtml

Tell you what bubba i need to put together a small paint can foundry for a friend this weekend. Ill take lots of photos the principle is exactly the same. Shell/add ceramic blanket/rigidize/hardcoat

Thats a very modified reil style burner. So issue one is that you need to induce more oxygen. Few different ways to do that open up the top of the pipe above where the feed for the propane comes in so it can induce oxygen from above. You can also in large or add more holes I would recommend doing that. You can go with a smaller orifice however for a 1in burner 1.2 mm is about right. The next issue is is that is a lot of dragon's breath the angle is kind of bad so it's hard for me to see but I'm guessing that you are getting a secondary burn because your flame is not being held in place get a flare or coupler or something on the end of that pipe to use as a flame retention.

Without some photos of the burner to see what type your building it's very difficult to tell from what you're saying it sounds like you're trying to make a reil style burner and it sounds like your dimensions are way off 1.2 mm is the equivalent of a 56 number drill bit that's way too big of an orifice also 3/8 inch pipe is going to create too much turbulence and prevent enough air flow on a reil style burner. Please get us some pictures and include the specs for everything you were using pipe size drill size Etc

You're going to get a lot of replies that will seem like you're being beat up on. The truth of the matter is your not the people here are offering you good sound advice they're just all a little bit crusty. This is due to the hordes of people myself included who have come to these forms after watching YouTube and sought advice to correct the problem that YouTube created. You will still get good advice it just might not come sugar coat it. The best advice is already been given sit down and read the forges 101 and decide how you really want to build Forge. In the meantime if you are dead set in using what you have the burner shown is a benzo Matic.

It's not so much a matter of being Worthy. You can build as good or better Forge for the fraction of the price. It's a matter of wanting to spend money instead of time.

Can we get pictures of the forge set up flame and dragons breath pls.