Retiry

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About Retiry

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Carleton, Michigan
  • Interests
    Classic cars/trucks,. Steel fabricating, welding, anything to keep out of that chair (hate retirement)

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  1. Hi, great looking build. Where did you get the plans?. I tried Clay's email address as a source it just came right back with a domain problem. Any ideas?
  2. Retiry

    Forges 101

    I haven't put them in the forge yet. I had them clamped to my bench but, I'll take some pictures tomorrow.
  3. Retiry

    Forges 101

    I lit them up and one surges like it's in the wind and the other three don't get a cone just a flame that pops out easily.
  4. Retiry

    Forges 101

    Those threads are touchy. One tiny Burr and they won't start. So I got them threaded. My fault, I didn't clean them up before trying thread the pipe in. I feel like a jerk. I'm not getting a cone on some of them.
  5. Retiry

    Forges 101

    Your right something is off.
  6. Retiry

    Forges 101

    Look in the part labeled alternative. Yes but you have to drill and tap for the 1/8 sch 80 pipe that the MIG tip screws into then screws into the T. I have a 1/8 npt tap and it is much smaller than the 1/8 pipe pipe..
  7. Retiry

    Forges 101

    Sounds like a good idea to light it up outside. Speaking of Frosty. I'm making T burners. I'm using schedule 80 for the pipe into the T. It calls for 1/8 pipe. I drilled the 5/16 tapped it with 1/8 npt. The tapped hole is too small for the sch 80 pipe. Yet I retapped with 1/8 npt mpt. And it fits into the hole in the T. Yet like Frosty says in the plans the hole in the schedule 80 is almost the correct size before machined. I'm confused.
  8. Retiry

    Forges 101

    I want to use 10" sch 40 for a forge. Not burners, ziebart is under coating very popular in the 50, 60, 70s. They used it in the 80s on sch 40 and 80 pipe I was wondering if I should remove it before making a force out of it.
  9. Retiry

    Forges 101

    I used to sell schedule 40/80 pipe but it has been a long time ago. I believe the outside is coated with ziebart nothing on the inside. I guess I'm going to fire it with the coating and see what happens. But, first I have to see if it's toxic and I believe ziebart is. I'll have to research it and start with the steel company I worked at many years ago..
  10. Retiry

    Forges 101

    I have a piece laying around, it's free. Yes its heavy but I go by use what you have first. Anyone know if I should remove the black coating?
  11. Retiry

    Forges 101

    That 40 lbs. Is for a completely different use. I'm just going to use it for a frame to hold refractory in place. It's under no stress and it doesn't get all that hot. I've seen portable air tanks used and they are thinner. They actually use coffee cans. I worked with sch40 and for this use it's plenty thick. Thanks for you input.
  12. Retiry

    Forges 101

    That is why I'm going to use an adjustable regulator 0 to 30 and a needle valve. So the flow and pressure can be varied. Because the brick insulates. Under the brick will only be one layer. Man, finding schedule 80 in an 1/8 inch nipple is a chore. I'm going to pack each wall after I soak with the rigidizer about a half inch. It's 6# so it will be as dense as 8# so it will be more of 1 1/2 ". Then coat with Plistex. The next one will be 10 inch SQ. Tube I like the length being 14". I got another question; I'm thinking about going to 10 " dia. Schedule 40 pipe. There is a coating on it, does that have to be removed? I believe it to be ziebart.
  13. Retiry

    Forges 101

    Well I have actually bought the parts and have changed to a final design. Since I have found and downloaded the plans for Frostys T burner. I like the simplistic design. As for the forge, I'm using 8x8 tubing with 3/16 walls and 14" long. 11/2 pipe to mount burner. Refractory, 2 layers of 1 in 8# ends will be covered except the opening being even with the brick on the bottom and in the back the top of the inside opening will be covered. The back will be attached, the front will have offset hinges. I'm using rigidizer coated with Plistex. The brick will have one layer under it.. Last week I bought an anvil for 275.00 100 pounder. Turns out it weighs 160 and it's the first run of the Fisher Eagle 1843. The mounts gave it away when I looked it up in Anvils in American. The patent was awarded in 1844. Mine has no number. I was surprised there's no ring, just a thud but a great rebound. 2/3 and about 6 bounces. The top half in the back will be covered.
  14. I'm doing a venturi design from an artist in Alabama. Mostly all stainless. It uses .040 orfice but it's very hot and can be used to melt or turned down for bending. It uses a 0-30psi regulator. I've gone through 3 interations this is the one I'm going with. And it uses Tig welding and I need to practice. I got to justify my purchase.