Binesman

Heres my advice to you. You are overthinking and over engineering this entire thing. You are a beginner that doesnt know how blacksmithing works and have no idea what you will need or what you will want to do. Follow a set design for a simple forge so you can get to blacksmithing and figure out the answers to what you want to do and get an idea of what you will need to do it. You can find easy forge plans on waynes website google waynecoe artist blacksmith He also sells everything you will need to build it. For a burner look at the frosty t burner instructions pinned on this site.

Flame looks like it will get it done and cant say 100 without dimensions but just guestimating by the pic has the ability to get your forge to welding temp. Good work. As for picking on your box and welds. A forge is a tool. Tools are utilitarian not aesthetic. In other words it works so stop stressing what people say or think Couple questions. What type of firebrick are you using? It looks like regular hard firebrick. The floor looks like you attempted to add a hardface that is crumbling away. What did you use for that? some advice. If that is normal firbrick put in a layer of 1/2" kastolite. Put in a hardface of plistex or matrikote to protect the brick and increase heat (if its good brick directly on the brick if you add kastolite on top of the kastolite) Kastolite and matrikote/plistex can be purchased from wayne on his website at a good price for small quantities google waynecoe artist blacksmith.

Yep thats pretty darn close to 350. Out of curiosity how do you intend to align your burner? Will you do a straight on flame path or will you angle it in an attempt to get some swirl? Also how are you attachimg your doors? Doing a hinge system or some sort of tracking so they are "adjustable" sliding doors?

if using 2 1" layers of kaowool. 10"x8"x10" becomes 6"x4"x"10"=240 cubic inch. probably a little smaller because of kastolite and matrikote. (that is assuming you are following the waynecoe design).

without a photo of the flame there isn't much we can do to help you out. forge looks to be getting hot...that's about all I can say.

That thing is laughable for what it is what it comes with and how much they want. If you want to buy a forge look in to diamondback or majestic. You will spend around the same price for a real forge. Keep in mind very few production forges are turn key ready (the two i mentioned are not) and you will need to do some work to get them up and running. If you are looking to spend less and build your own forge so you have a working knowledge of the tool you are using. Google waynecoe artist blacksmith. His site has tried and true forge plans that are easy to follow and he sells all the material you need at a very reasonable price. For a burner build a 3/4" frost tburner you can find the plans pinned here on iforge they are easyish to make and extremely reliable. Not to mention if you have problems with it just about everyone here has built one and can help you...oh and yeah the guy who you know designed the thing trolls around here too and seems realy helpfull so the tburner has that going for it as well.

Greenflames+lots of dragonbreath=not enough oxygen. So theres a number of issues with the burners that i can see. You can be told all day the design problem but all those problems lead to the one simple fact your burners are not capable of drawing enough oxygen. The simpliest possable solution i can come up with for this. Drill some air intake holes.

If youre starting out use a known design and follow it. If youre looking for something less complex to make go with a frosty t burner. There a clear and easy to follow instructions pinned on this site for them.

Build the burner to get experience. With a 1/2" T and the set up you are designing you can set it up right and use it as a foundry. I do think you have your layer orders a little mixed up. If im reading correctly you intend to put a kiln wash on the kaowool then a layer of refractory. This is backwards. 1. Ridgidized kaowool. 2. Refractory (kastolite 30 is great stuff) 3. Kiln wash matrikote/plistex.

No it has to be fired this is what allows the silica of the ridgidizer to bond to the blanket

Ive switched to superwool for this very reason. I still treat it just like kaowool. For your question mikey. There are dangers IF i make a mistake and supposedly those dangers are mitigated by the use of superwool. Even if its only a small chance of being true the risk/reward is to much not to switch over.

1. Measure. 2. Cut kaowool, form fit to shell 2 layers of 1" thick 3. Remove kaowool spritz lightly with water. Then spray down with ridgidizer. Let sit for about 4 hours to soak in. 4. Put in first layer of kaowool and fire forge to dry and set the ridgidizer (i usualy bring mine up to 1200 or so temp and hold it there for at least 5 minutes. When you are done the kaowool should be more solid and springy(its still a blanket but you should feel a very definable differance) if not spray down with ridgidizer again (while still in forge) let it soak in and fire again. 5. Repeat step 4 for second layer of kaowool. 6. Trowel in refractory kastolite 300 is the generaly recomended here. 7. Let refractory cure (i usualy give it a solid 24 hours 48 is more than enough) 8. Fire the forge multiple times slowly bringing it to higher temp each time. To drive off any remaining moisture. 9. Coat with kiln wash matrikote is the generaly recomended here. 10. Repeat 7 and 8.

First and foremost lets address the issue that will kill you if you attempt to use that forge. RIDGIDIZE YOUR BLANKET!!!!!!! now to the burner. Lile mikey said your flare needs flared and your mixing tube is to short. Also the pipe you are using for a gas feed is to large and blocking oxygen from being pulled in. If i remember the reil plans correctly they call for a 1/8" nipple there to allow more air flow. We also dont know what size orriface you drilled im guessing its way to large i would recomend a #72

Your welds look better than mine so dont feel bad. That type of mounting is fine and probably not whats causimg it to die.

Def frostys business with the burner. The die out when its hot enough to reignite is usualy from hot exhaust coming up by your air intake. Can you show us a picture of your burner mount please.

Mufflers can make for pretty decent forges too. And if you have sewers you have irrigation piping you probably just call it by a different name.

I have easy and very cheap acces to irrigation piping and that is what i use for my forge body.

Leave the president out of it.

Bob Im not sure why waynes plans dont say to ridgidize. However ALWAYS!!!! ridgidize your blanket.

If your forge will be in the 300 cubic inch range you only need 1 3/4" burner to get to welding temps if forge/burner are set up correctly.

What size burners are tou using? As for the regulator swede summed it up...it shout and it might and then again maybe not. I use bayou classic 0-30 for turkey fryers and have no issue.

You've done your homework you're very well and to be honest the one-inch burner sold on Alex steals website is actually quite nice it sounds like you have put together a solid plan and we'll be building a good Forge

bob. please remember that adding in insulation cuts down on the interior size of the forge. a 1 gallon paint can if properly lined with wool and refractory uses a pencil tip torch or a 3/8" burner to heat. As for what size burner is good for a Freon tank forge well that depends on the size of the tank. I believe (it's been a while since I read them) The forge plans on Wayne's site are for a 20# propane tank. If built to plans a 3/4" burner is more than enough for the forge.

Give it a tyy and see how it works. My gut says the set yp will block to much air and you will need some intake holes.

K9 http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com Has the plans for a forge on his site and sells all the materials to make it. (no matter what you do for a burner a properly built forge is necessary) as for a burner i would recomend reading the tburner pinned section here on the forums and using a 3/4" tburner.