Binesman

Flame is no where near perfect. Google search flame color to oxygen. You are running extremely rich. Issues. 1. Not enough oxygen. You need to drill intake holes. 2. Orifice is to large. #57 is .043 way to big. #68(biggest) to #76(smallest) i would recommend a #72. 3. Choke. I dont even see it in the photos. Either im blind or its someplace it realy shouldnt be. 4. Flare. 3/4 to 1 1/2 is i would say to large and will not provide a proper venturi to hold the flame. That said it seems to be working dine in the photo. However i think once its backpreasured by being in a forge it will not. If you start to experience blowouts or the flame collapsing back in to the burn tube swith to a 3/4 by 1 with the threading at the 1" side ground away.

make sure the flare is up inside the blanket to help protect it from the HOT FORGE

583 cubic inch 2 3/4" burners or 1 1" for reliable welding temps (assumING THE FORGE AND BURNER IS BUILT PROPERLY)

so about 7" long with 4" diameter gives you about 82 cubic" My questions is what size burner is that? It looks like a 3/4" if i'm right on that its WAY overkill for that forge. To the point that you might melt more metal then you forge. Also a couple quick side notes. I can see your blanket in the burner port. You realy should consider covering that will refractory for safety (a thin layer is more then enough for a burner port) Also I realy hope that blanket is ridgidized. And i'm not noticing any way to actually mount the burner.

That is some good advice wayne. I never even considered the difference until you said something. I have some of the tapered tips for getting in to tighter places when welding. However for our purposes the gas being funneled down a V instead of slamming in to then back pressured and finally being shoved out of a U could allow for a significant gas flow increase. HMMMMM now I gotta go play and test things on my next day off.....thanks a lot wayne you got my brain started now i'm not gonna sleep for days.

I've never used one of there forges. However a friend of mine did purchase a burner from them. I was underwhelmed by it. He had a 275ish cubic inch forge and the burner worked fine for forging but could not get it to forgeweld temps. I made and gave him a Tburner and the difference was night and day.

yellow brass melting point is 1700ish so it will melt in the first forging session. a 3/4" Tburner will do very nicely in that size forge. judging from the look of your work you will have no problems putting one together easily and they are very inexpensive. The plans are pinned here in the gas forge section.

Rebuild the burner in steel with a stainless steel flare. That brass flate will not last long. The flare should be about 1/8" or so inside the wool to protect it from flames. Even with proper placement brass will melt quick. Forgot to ask you did ridgidize the blanket correct?

lot of dragonsbreath. I don't realy know with the Tburner frosty will be along at some point. But I can say with a linear burner I would only use a .35 tip in a 1" if it's easy to change out on your set up (you followed frosty's plans) I might recommend giving it a try just to see.

Refractory use kastolite30 wayne sells it. It will not break down (or at least so little it will take years to notice) from welding heat...however the use of flux while welding will eat refractory kastolite holds up pretty well but you can see it putting matrikote over the refractory not only helps with fuel efficiency but it is very resistant to flux. There are no fibers in kastolite or matrikote to worry about.

.35 is to big for a 3/4" burner. Go to at least a .30 given your oxygen issues id recomend dropping down to a .23 even Reducer with threads ground out should work lets work the placement and oxygen out first then well look at flame retention.

This could be an part of the issue. If your burner is tp deep in the forge it will get unnecessary backpreasure as well as eventualy melting. Youre nozzle/flame retainer should be just barely inside the blanket 1/8" or so. In order to protect it and also to give your flame room before it impedes on the wall/floor. Also what are you using as a nozzle/flame retainer? as this may be a big part of your issue with backburn in to the mixing tube. And what size is your gas feed oriface and is it drilled or migtip? I should add. Please do not be discouraged by all these questions or being told you did x wrong and to do it this way. These are in no way intended to put you down or in any way "poke fun" my intention is soley to help you get your forge as close to "good" as i am capable. Believe me your forgelooks like the sisteen chapel compaired to the stick figure of my forst forge. You have done an exemplary job on the body.

I can't seem to get sound to work but I trust buzzkill's opinion on it. I can tell you have a very rich burn by the dragonsbreath and you most assuredly need more oxygen. What are you using on the end of the burner as a flame holder/nozzle? From the images it looks like your gas feed is blocking off most oxygen from getting in to the burners. You will definitely need to drill air holes. If you go with a linear style I am concerned that your burner ports may be too tall. You might need to cut off about 2" so the top is closer to the mounting bolts instead of hiding so much of the mixing tube.

So you have nothing for thermal mass. Wool is great at holding heat in an area but it does not absorb heat very well at all. Even a well built forge pushing a 3/4" burner would have trouble in cold weather with an open ended forge with wool only. Order a pint of matrikote from wayne and paint your wool that will help a lot. Also close the end up as well as you can (if tou have some extra blanket you can cut to shape and coat in matrikote as a plug then put some bricks behind as well)

Well how is your forge insulated? What size is the forging chamber?

well it looks like you can drill a very nice round hole. That's the good news. As for the rest....read burners 101 and/or frosty's T burner. Both are pinned.

I personally always recommend people to build their own not only do you usually end up with a much higher quality tool for a lower price but there's also something special about using something you made yourself. Whichever way you decide to go please remember make sure the forge is rigidized I cannot stress to you the importance of this matter.

Robert hunt around the forums a bit ther are tons of photos of forges. I dont use propane tanks because i have cheap access to irrigation pipe

Dependso. How thick of an application 1/2" i usualy let cute 24/36hours then i fire a few times allowimg imcreased heat each time.

I would highly recommend moving it inside and allowing it to cure properly. I live in Colorado and have force cured a forger 2 and the kastolite always comes out very Sandy and nowhere near as durable.

If you want to pound some metal in the mean time for "practice" check the solid fuel forge section. Theres directions for trench forges and all sorts of others you can have running in a few hours.

kastolite Pros: 1: Hard castable protects blanket from clumsy tongs 2: Very flux resistant so if you intend to forge weld protects the blanket 3: High conductive transfer (at temperature brings metal to temp faster and uses less fuel to stay at temp) 4: Easy to patch and repair if you somehow manage to mess it up. Cons: 1: Heavy 2: Takes longer to reach temperature (uses more fuel to get there) Now i'm sure there are several pros and cons I've missed but those are the major ones to me. So in summary if you need a light portable forge for quick jobs that won't be run for more than an hour at a time I would not recommend the use of kastolite. For anything other then that specific set of circumstances to me it's an amazing product. Also i'm aware that matrikote says not to put it on refractory however I can assure you from numerous forge builds it works just the same over kastolite as it does over blanket.

well done. The kastolite needs to cure

No teturn the itc it is a waste of money. I will expand on this with my obserbed results later when not at work.

I dont know exact temp that is needed. I usualy just throw my burner in and brimg it to forging temps amd let it set at it for 10 or so minutes