Went Overhill

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About Went Overhill

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  • Location
    Northern Idaho
  • Interests
    Hobby smithing.

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  1. +Binesman: I wont be able to forge for an extended period of time coming this January so the forge setup is temporary, do you think it'd last till then? (should I just run temps low or do I just need to abandon it?) +Thomas: I managed to find a place that does a fireplaces but that's the closest thing I have, but would their supplies work? (With forging temperatures?) Note: I cant seem to upload photos of my forge on this site (still cant figure out why) but if I stop up the mouth the forge seems to be able to quickly reach orange temps, though I have never left it on long enough to try for yellow heats (I've only really fired it to cure the satanite surfaces that remain and to dry my improvised patching slurry.) Would it be safe to run temporarily for small forging projects? (I don't have too long before I will be away from the forge for a while so I'd like to smith as much as I can before then).
  2. +WayneCoe. Thanks for the website! The ceramic blanket seems relatively cheap from your site (by comparison to some other sites), if I went for a ceramic blanket would it insulate the pearlite insulator enough that it doesn't melt in the forge or would I have to remove the old lining and just double up on the wool? +Jasent It appears everyone goes for ceramic fiber blankets now days, unfortunately I live outside a small town and the closest boiler shop (or equivalent) is in another state. Are there any easy alternatives or am I going to need to invest in the higher quality lining?
  3. I built a gas forge a few years back out of a pearlite insulator, but I never put a refractory coating so it began melting pretty quickly, I ditched it and made two solid fuel forges some time later but recently as it got colder I decided to work on my propane forge so I could work in my dads shop. The forge is a cylindrical stainless steel can with a pearlite insulator (I forget the exact recipe but I think it was something along the lines of a pearlite aluminum oxide mix) When I came back to the forge I had more knowledge so I acquired two pounds of satanite and installed fire bricks in the base and sides for better structural support and insulation. The Satanite bonded to the firebricks very well, but when I thought everything was going well on the second coat almost half of the satanite delaminated from the pearlite ceiling. In the end I lost pretty much all of my satanite and ended mixing the leftover slurry with firebrick and pearlite "mud" as a temporary patch for the exposed section of the ceiling. I don't really have any confidence that the temporary patch will hold the heat terribly well but I cant see many alternatives with my limited supplies. What refractory options do I have, and what materials would be best to fix my problem? (I don't have much cash but I could spend a bit if I need new materials) (Note: I'm having trouble uploading a photo to the topic, I tried to describe what I could but if anyone knows what the problem is I could post a few pictures.)
  4. Ah I understand, I'm not terribly familiar with axes so I was confused.
  5. We just had a restaurant open up in the nearby town that might be willing to give me some oil, I'll be sure to ask them. I'll also try my church, I've been surprised recently by what other members happen to have information on in regards to smithing materials.
  6. +Thomas: I don't have much cash but I'll see if I can get some cleaner oil in the future. +Steve: I just discovered this forum I'll be sure to do more reading, but I've had very limited internet access so I've been limited to learning through books, trial, and error. +John: Thanks for the comment! I'm surprised you got the reference (no one else I've ever talked to has) +C-1: I think I understand, you don't think I should try and salvage the chipped side but rather I should make it a single sided axe?
  7. Thanks for the feedback! I'll be updating my profile as soon as I have a little spare time in a day or so. And I'll post pictures when possible (I dont have a camera or phone). +C1Toolsteel: You suggested turning the damaged end into a shaping axe with a single sided bevel. If I understand a shaping axe is an axe with a smaller head with a chisel styled edge? +IronDragon: I'll post a picture when able but to help describe it the bottom corner lost about as much metal as my thumb (give or take a little) I see no other cracks along the axe blade though. I also tempered the remaining blade to prevent further mistakes. +Frosty: Sorry for my username It's my old tag I used for video games when I was the only person in my friend group who had any interest in forges so it was easily recognizable. I understand that here it makes little sense. Edit: I have some experience with using motor oil to quench would I get better results that way or would that still be too violent? As for the axe I found an old worn name I think it read "Vaughan" but the date was unreadable.
  8. I am still new to blacksmithing but recently I found an old double bit axe I was trying to save. I was nearly complete when I decided to harden the blade before sharpening and etching. I hardened the edge in water because I thought the steel wouldn't harden very well (I know terrible mistake) I ended up cracking the lower part of one of the sides of the axe. I'm still trying to save the axe (The other side is still fine) but I don't know what I can do with this double bit axe when the other side cannot be symmetrical. does anyone have ideas on what to do with the other edge? (Maybe a spike or a smaller head?) I'd really like some advice from people who know what their doing.