Matt Scanlan

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About Matt Scanlan

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Ebensburg, PA
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, knife making

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  1. Ive been researching it for 2 days and I haven't found anything close to it. I'm starting to think it was a one off tool someone made. I can see it being used it mortises but the double end part threw me off. There wouldn't be a good way to strike it.
  2. Alright, since the link got removed (didnt read the post about eBay links) I'll try screenshots of just the axe. I think it is really interesting because aside from a 16th century corner chisel ive never seen 90 angle blades on a tool. No idea what it may have been used for. Your images have been cropped and reduced in size from 2.1 megs to less than 50kb
  3. Found this on eBay, I dont have any plans on buying it but its definitely intriguing. Maybe a custom mortising axe? Your ebay link was removed.
  4. Heres the finished product. I learned alot and still have much to learn, but my friend was very happy with it.
  5. Okay that makes sense. If my post idea doesn't work here it gives me an excuse to make more tongs! Thanks
  6. Thanks for the info Latticino. My biggest worry was with the chromium in the 5160 I would run into delamination issues. Could you elaborate more on this? When I was working with the ball-peen hammers I would pre-heat the steel and arc weld a piece of 3/8 square to the flat head so I could use my V tongs for better grip.
  7. Ive tinkered around repurposing ball-peen hammers into axe looking things to work on my hammer drifting techniques. Now I want to make a small bearded camp hatchet. I have a 1.5" x 1.5" x 4" block of 1018 and some 1/4" 5160. My plan is to use the 1018 and forge weld the 5160 as the bit. 1. Anyone ever have issues welding these two metals together? Ive welded high carbon and 15N20, mild steel to mild steel, and mild to high carbon but I havent done much forging with 5160 outside making knives with it. 2. Will the 1018 be a decent metal to use? I dont plan on cutting down big trees with it. More of an everyday bushcraft hatchet. Id like to use 5160 since it will take repeated impacts better that high carbon, but if not I do have some 1080 in the shop.
  8. Or a hydraulic press I can imagine
  9. Thanks Chris C, I just ordered a can.
  10. Well I just tried using the whiteout and the sulfuric acid started reacting with it immediately so thats a no-go. Guess I'll have to wait and get some asphaltum varnish in.
  11. ThomasPowers. I'll be honest ive never even heard of it. Is it something you can get at a hardware store like lowes or ace? No I havent tried that but I do have some one hand. I'll give it a shot!
  12. I'm attempting to etch a pattern on the 440c. Normally with ferric chloride I use krylon spray paint and OPI nail polish as a resistant. But neither ferric chloride nor muratic acid would etch the steel. So I tried 10:1 diluted sulfuric acid and it worked like charm. The first time I tried it got underneath the spray paint. The second time I tried using adhesive lamination film but I got the same results. I'm cleaning the blade with alcohol and then washing it with simple green before I put anything on it and the second attempt I re-sanded the surface down to 1000 grit. Anyone got any advice on what to use as a resistant?
  13. JHCC, thanks. Guess my 4 hours was overkill.
  14. I don't do this for money (not yet atleast) but I can definitely see that being a problem. Knowing what makes a good blade versus a cheap blade must be hard to convey to some people.
  15. Buzzkill thank you for that information. That makes more sense now. It was just puzzling to me that the steel required an oxygen free environment for heat treat but could be exposed to oxygen and repeated heating cycles in forging. I guess I'm more used to carbon steels. Stainless steels are still outside my comfort zone but after this experience I would like to learn more about them. I agree I cut corners and would love to see the difference between my results and those of the prescribed method. If I had an oven at my disposal I would have strictly stuck to the manufacturers instructions, but as for now an oven is still on my dream list. I can say the blade after the cryo quench is far harder than my experience with 1080. Perhaps in the future I could aquire a set of Rockwell testing files if I intend to use this steel again, but so far it hasn't been as much of a headache as I was expecting it to be.