Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

Welcome to IFI, we won't remember this once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it. We have a lot of Texas members here. There is a thread TPAAAT and If you substitute Leg Vise for anvil it really does work to find all kinds of blacksmithing tools. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/3602-thomas-powers-applied-anvil-acquisition-technique/ Another way to find tools is to hook up with local blacksmithing clubs and spread the word among members. Local newspaper classifieds is another source, here we have 2 free paper's called the Ozark Horse Trader and Ozark Mountain Trader, see if there is something like that local. Another source would be Farriers check with them and their suppliers. I posted notes with my name & phone number for things I was looking for on local bulletin boards, at several grocery stores and found them. There is the Tailgating section here to post wanted items, just read the rules for posting in that subforum. There are several Blacksmithing supply companies who sell new leg vises also. The forum TOS prevents posting links to them but a Google search will bring them up. BTW I like your screen name.

Welcome aboard, if you put your general location in your profile, there may be members close enough to lend a hand. The first thing I noticed is the Kaowool doesn't look like it is ridgedized or coated with a hard flame face. That would be a health hazard if so. Also detailed pictures of the burners would help. Have you read through this thread? https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/66861-problem-with-forge-welding-temp/ Or this one? READ THIS FIRST

Welcome aboard... I suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

You're welcome, if someone hadn't helped me, when I first got a Tombstone welder 30 years ago, I would still be scratching my head. There is a pretty good book on the subject, Practical Welding (Second Edition) by LeRoy A. Scheck & G.C. Edmondson ISBN0-02-829730-X that I would recommend for someone just starting out.

Looks good, time to start welding.

They should work. I like E6011 as an all purpose electrode. The best all-around welding rod would be the 6011, especially for the DIY'er and hobbyist. With 3/32 and 1/8 size rods on hand, the 6011 will get the majority of your jobs done. It is a fast-fill freeze rod, runs on both ac/dc and handles dirty contaminated jobs better than other electrodes.

Yes you can, depending upon which welding rods you have, some are better than others at welding hi carbon steel.

That depends upon the flame from the burner. A flame that is too lean (too much oxygen) will cause scale, While a flame that is slightly rich (less oxygen) will not produce scale, until the metal is removed from the forge and is exposed to the air. Of course an overly rich flame will produce much more CO carbon monoxide which is a serious health hazard. Maybe some of the gas forge gurus will chime in and add to this.

Good catch Stash, I totally missed that. I'm betting you're right.

With no fuel on top of the work, you will get a lot more scale formed.

If there is the possibility of freeing up the motor or having it rebuilt, it probably would be worth it. If the motor is truly shot, it wouldn't be worth $100 to me. A quick search here are some threads. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/27157-electric-blower-motor-update/ https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/50557-buffalo-forge-what-are-these-parts/ https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/43833-buffalo-forge-motor-controls/

It looks like the hundred (stone) weight stamp is 2.2.2, if I'm seeing that right, the weight should be 282 pounds. If it's 3.3.3 then the weight would be 423 pounds. Hard to tell from the pictures.

If the leg is cracked, I don't see a problem with welding it up, just no welding on the hardened face.

My "striker" is a 30 pound Star hammer. Gotta love the mechanical advantage at 78 year's old.

I would buy it if the ring & rebound is consistent across the whole face. Also I would not do any grinding on it until I used it for about a year. What I see mostly in the pictures is casting marks from the mold. Not sure in the next to the last picture if the dark line is a crack or not.

That's the main thing and I agree about not using the magnets. I've first hand knowledge about power tools grabbing the work and launching it across the shop. Just by luck the blade did not hit me. That is a very fine looking welding table indeed.

Was the pan lined with clay?

Welcome aboard... You might want to read this. READ THIS FIRST Pictures of the anvil may help in identification.

I'm a member of the Traditional Muzzleloading forum. One of our members posted this about building a muzzleloader with a young man who is blind. It is a very inspiring story to say the least. It also shows what can be accomplished with the right mindset. https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/building-blind.117940/ https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/building-blind-rifle-is-finished.126102/

If you are good enough to copy someone's work, then there's no need to copy someone's work. ~ anvil

Our pines are being attacked by the Southern Pine Beetles. Doesn't take long to kill the tree and move on to the next one.

You don't need fire bricks either. What you need is fuel over the top of your stock. Take a look at this thread and the illustration.

I cut mine with an anvil hot cut after straightening the amount I want.

Rusty or not, they look good to me.

When the law that required school workers be fingerprinted and sent off to the FBI was passed. I had several sweet ladies who worked in the cafeteria that had no fingerprint ridges or valleys on any of their fingers. I had to write a notarized letter to submit with the fingerprint cards stating my knowledge of them and why due to the abrasive cleaners used they did not have prints, so they could keep their jobs.