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About Jarntagforge

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Vasa, Finland
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing. Wood work. Gym. Violin.

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750 profile views
  1. Thanks for the tips. I'll bring some 2" boards and place them under the load. As for getting it off, our neighbours have a JCB tractor so I'll ask them first if it has the capacity to lift it, otherwise I'll widen my search. The hammer can wait ontop of the truck.
  2. Hey all, I've bought a 100-year-old two-piece self-contained airhammer. It's a Mammutwerke model MW3 from Nürnberg, Germany. It's in southern Finland though so it's not that far. The hammer body weighs 2200 kg/4890 lbs and the anvil 1300 kg/ 2890 lbs. The seller arranges extraction from the blacksmith shop and onto our Renault S150 midliner. I have a few questions I hope some wise man or woman could answer. Our midliner truck has a flat bed, made up of softer sheet steel on the frame, do I need to put wooden boards under the power hammer to distribute the load evenly on both the hammer and truck? Or is that even a stupid idea for some reason? I'm a little worried about the hammer possibly standing on a few bearing points and driving with it through bumps and uneven roads for 7 hours. What if the ring-like part of the hammer that holds the anvil cracks? Another thing I'm wondering about is what are the minimum requirements for fastening such a heavy load to the truck? We have 3 half-inch chains with tightheners and five 2-inch, 50 mm ratchet tie-down straps. That's 8 fasteners all in all. I assume 4 fasteners per piece is minimum. Are these enough for this load or do I need to buy more? Here's a truck with bed similar to my dad's Renault S150., minus the fold-down-ramp. I'm thinking I might put the hammer body close to the cab and the anvil behind the body. My dad and brother-in-law will becoming along. What do you guys and gals think, is there any other advice that's good to know? Best regards, Hobby blacksmith, Jakob Staffans Kimo, Finland Here's a link to a german forum with some pictures of a hammer of this make, but the hammer in that forum is smaller, a 50 kg model. and here's a video of that 50 kg MW1 running. Watch out, the audio is broken and gives "BEEP" "BLIP" sometimes so keep the volume down.
  3. Thanks! Last weekend I and my girlfriend went on another trip. We drove up from Vaasa to Tornio on a friday where I bought this 250 gallon/1000 liter air tank. It's from 1988 but it had been inspected at least 4 times. Which is all really re-assuring! Last time was in 2017. I'm gonna use it mainly for my home-made airhammer. After that we drove over to Sweden to buy a 150 kg/330 lb sawyer's anvil. No dents or anything. I heard it's good for forging on as it rebounds really well all-over, as opposed to heeled anvils. Will be fun to try it. Then we stayed the night in Luleå, ate at a fancy restaurant, and drove down to Umeå the next day. We walked around town, ate at a fancy restaurant, had some drinks and stayed in a hotel which served a great breakfast the next day. Then we took the boat back to Vaasa on sunday. best regards, Jakob Staffans Vaasa, Finland
  4. It seems faces is his thing. He does some other stuff too. Here's his gallery. http://oshipala.com/gallery.html
  5. Here's another video of him, where he actually uses a jack hammer!
  6. Do you know the stroke length of a 200 lb Chambersburg utility hammer? I built one homemade utility hammer and would like to modify it to have the same stroke length :-)
  7. Related question. Could a 250 kg, 550 lb air hammer be used for making hammers and axes without the additional weight of the tup being a significant downside? Because you can cycle it down and just tap the work. A bigger hammer is always better, is my thinking. But actually this is my question so I shouldn't answer it myself. What do you guys think?
  8. Thanks, Beaver! If anyone else have any ideas I'd be curious to know more about in-slides power hammers vs clear space hammers. At some point all manufacturers moved away from in slides. Is there some disadvantage to them? One think I'm thinking of is throat height (if that's the term). As in height of the working piece and top tools. Clear space hammers seems like they can fit more stuff. If I were to say for example "I'm going to buy this in-slides hammer for 3000€." Would anyone quickly remark something like "Don't buy that 100 year old technology, buy the newer Bêchés!" ? 250 kg Bahco (this is the potential seller's instagram)
  9. I don't know, I didn't ask anyone for permission I just did it First we picked up the spring hammer from the retiring blacksmith on the first photo, and then we went to IKEA So the girlfriend was happy. I borrowed her dad's big Ford Transit van and I pushed it near its payload weight limit with this... The van should be able to hold 1500 kg and this hammer was anything between 1000 and 1400 kg, maybe 1100? On top of that was the large old-style electrical motor whose weight we just ignored but probably weighed at least 200 kg... we loaded the hammer from the back of the van and you could hear all kinds of creaking sounds. The suspension sunk down... to still an acceptable height. *phew* Then we drove to Ikea, loaded up some furniture and drove home. Thinking back on the loading I get anxious. Would have sucked so hard if anything on the car had broken down, 5 hours ride away from home.
  10. You could look on online flea markets or ebay or such. I found exactly what you were looking for but in Finland. A local reclaimed steel and steel trader is retiring and selling his stock. Even if he hadn't been retiring he would still have a bunch of it. Maybe there's someone local. You could ask local construction steel suppliers for info on such traders.
  11. You could look further. Netherlands and France. Ask french or dutch friends for good websites where they sell that stuff. I've had good road trips with my girlfriend when buying equipment.
  12. Yeah sure, I would like those plans. You can send them to me at [email protected] Thanks a lot. I have a question. There's a similar hammer for sale in Sweden. It's a Bahco and it's identical in design to yours so I guess they perhaps bought a liscence or something and made copies of Massey hammers, those old ones, like the one you have. The one I know of is 550 lb. I was wondering what's the practical difference, or difference in operation or longevity or similar between those old air hammers with in-line rams and the newer cylinder-rams like on newer Masseys or Anyangs? Rectangular rams and cylinder rams.
  13. What a great thread. Thanks for all the information and sharing from everyone, especially you, BeaverNZ. I have a question, I read it all and I don't think I saw this anywhere. Shouldn't the anvil have wood directly under it? Maybe it does? I tried to see if you wrote you put wood under it but I couldn't find anything. I ask because when reading this book on page 543 and 544, https://ia600205.us.archive.org/24/items/machineryfoundat00crof/machineryfoundat00crof.pdf it seems to me they put wood under the anvils. To my understanding to absorb the impact so the slides don't have to, and that the frame would break otherwise. But then again of course I don't know the answers either way, I'm just asking. I dig you hammer!
  14. No, I don't do production work. There doesn't seem to be much activity on these forums (from what I can see) so I thought giving my opinion to bounce ideas on was better than nothing. Quick change dies is always a pro, but everyone I see on instagram and youtube use saddle tools or other types of tools on top of flat dies. Unless it's axe making, it seems to be flat dies all the way.
  15. Regarding motor and power transferral, Little Giant 250 and 500 lb hammers may not be eactly the same but they're very similar. It's easy to imagine - is your hammer sluggish? Add power! But other than that I agree with the previous posters - if Clay's design says 65 lb then that's what the frame is designed for. You need to reinforce the frame in that case (all of the hammer) if you want a heavier ram.