Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

If you can get it for around $250-$300 and it passes the ring test, I would snap it up. Of course that would also depend upon where in the world you are located. Anvil prices vary greatly depend on location. This may help you in choosing an anvil. BTW... Welcome to IFI.

alexandr....When I saw that picture, I thought that's our boy Axle. What is his linage?

I've used Hammertone on railings and hand rails, looks good and wears well.

I think it's a Peter Wright also, due to the flats on the feet and the 149 should be the weight. A pretty slick anvil that should serve for several more generations and for $250 it's a steal. All it needs is hot steel hammered on the face to make it shine.

This explains that. Using the @ name on the forum

We won't remember you are in the U.S. (which is a very large place) hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show general location. Also the use of the @name tag is frowned upon here.

I was wondering the same thing, hope he is OK and staying safe.

If your rivet forge has a cast iron pan, be sure to line it with a good layer of clay to prevent it from cracking.

That depends on your pop-rivet gun. I can use steel rivets up to 1/4 in. diameter, with the grip of one hand and I'm not as strong as I used to be. For a forge that size, I would use 3/32 or 1/8 rivets.

If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself when I was young.

Because our shop is narrow and hard to work all around the anvils, I solved the problem by having one anvil to the right of the forge, horn to the right (hammer hand) and the anvil across from the forge horn to the left (tong hand).

The search I did has several of his books for download.

Welcome aboard Joe.han, if you edit your profile to show your general location, you may be surprised how many members are near you, and a lot of answers require knowing location.

If you do a Google search for Gene Chapman books there are a lot of hits for them.

Stew pot comes to mind.

I have a problem with their description. If it is a gasless welder, it is not a MIG welder. What else are they fudging on. MIG = Metal Inert Gas.

I use Perma Blue Cold Bluing solution to darken welded areas.

My rounding hammer has 2 faces, one rounded and the other is flat, also not my go to forging hammer.

I have that one bookmarked, a good site for research.

Yep...

The forum search is not the best, to say the least.

If you do a search on your favorite search engine (like Google) without the quote marks "trenton vise iforgeiron.com" there are at least 5 threads on the Trenton vise. No matter who made it, I'd say ya done good on it.

Fire bricks in a gas forge are considered consumables. If you are doing any forge welding it will accelerate the brick's deterioration. I would pick up some Kast-O-Lite30 and cast my own bricks.

Actually the Kanka leg vise's are cast steel (not cast iron) a big difference, most new anvils are made from cast steel too. Got to admit that the price is a little steep since the most I have paid for a forged wrought iron leg vise (3 of them) is under a hundred dollars each.

Looks like a Champion 40 or 140 blower in good shape. If you take the gear cover off and clean it with kerosene then re oil it, should last for several more decades. A tip about oiling it. Put in just enough oil (not grease) for the lower gear teeth to run in, the splash oil system will distribute oil throughout the other gears & bearings/bushings. Too much oil and it will leak like a sieve. Don't ya love it when a plan comes together. PS: I never recommend disassembling those old blowers unless it is absolutely necessary. Why you ask, because there are no new parts available for them and getting them back together in the exact positions is very hard so it usually causes more harm than good.