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About littleblacksmith

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 08/19/2002

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  • Gender
  • Location
    College Station, Texas
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bottle/dump digging, metal detecting, coin collecting, learning about history, survival/pioneer skills, and spending time in the great outdoors!

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  1. guys, guys, try not to loos your temper again. Littleblacksmith
  2. Cool man, you going to be there Friday also? I'll be there all day Friday and Saturday. Not sure what ill be wearing, was going to wear my alec steele shirt if it got here in time, but not sure that it will. the name Is Mark. Ill be entering a buckle into the competition, and some pieces into the live and silent auctions. Just look for the kid in this video (me). See you there!
  3. Yeah, you know your single when the only chocolate you are eating today is the chocolate that you bought. Littleblacksmith
  4. I would recommend 1045, just because it is much easier to forge, but holds up just fine. Littleblacksmith
  5. "One machine can do the work of 50 ordinary men. No machine can do the work of one extraordinary man"-Elbert Hubbard (1856-1915) Author and teacher "each man has his own vocation, his talent is his call. There is one direction in which all space is open to him"-Ralph Waldo Emmerson Littleblacksmith
  6. Oh boy, that's tomorrow..... Littleblacksmith
  7. The past 4 tongs that I have made were all given away, or are about to be given away. The tongs I made before those 4 tongs at the time I thought were great, but then about a week later they looked like something out of a river bottom. They function great, but look pretty bad. The structure on them is terrible and I'm just waiting for them to fail. The 4 that i have made most recently are really nice, and so everyone has better tools than I, event though I made them. I too don't recommend tongs as a first project, second project, or 20th project. Littleblacksmith
  8. Best way to clean the anvil face, is to beat some HOT steel on it! Littleblacksmith
  9. Do this at a LOW heat, and you will get very little scaling. If you do it at a high heat=more scale. But be sure not to do it at too low of a temperature, or else you risk breaking it. Littleblacksmith
  10. Looks great for a first, good start! One thing I will recommend, is on the next one to taper the tip down a bit finer, and put a small curl on the end, and also to make the bend a little more "organic" (more graceful). You can see that it is flat, flat flat, and then all of a sudden it bends sharply, and curves, and then is another bend. just next time try and not make it not as "choppy", but make it one full bend. Now, the back of the hook should be flat, which you achieved, and also you have a nice square taper .Reason I recommend the curl on the end is so you don't poke a hole through you favorite hat, or worse, you wife's coat! Littleblacksmith
  11. Need to get some stuff made for up coming fairs. Today I Had some fun with a ball fuller (AKA a small normalized ball pein hammer flipped over) and made a plant hanger. Also made a small coat rack with brass rivets. I punched the holes, and so I had to make a small diameter (3/16") punch. Made a large S-hook. Towards the end of the day my dad and I mounted a post drill in my shop. Took us a year literally! I got the drill last year at the Steep Hollow forge get together which is this up coming weekend! Funny how things happen like that. Littleblacksmith
  12. No it's fine, don't worry. I was just worried that I had gotten on the wrong side of you and that you were done with me! Thank you for deciding that I'm worth it, I'm very humbled. Ok, so we have gone over what NOT to do, so what is the proper way? I started using some smaller hammers today, because I was using smaller stock (under 1/2"). Now, with larger steel over 5/8", I think I will use a larger hammer. Would it be fine to use a larger hammer sometimes, just not all the time? When will I be at the point when I can use "larger" hammers? Something really, really sad happened today. I was using my small rounding hammer that I made, and I looked at the faces to see how they were holding up. I was shocked to see 2 cracks on the flat die of the hammer! They are in the center, and so it's not like they started from a corner, or other sharp edge. I did not see them after heat treating, and I'm almost a 100% sure they weren't their after heat treating. Must have happened during use. I event tempered it softer than I thought I should, to a Dark, Dark brown. Littleblacksmith
  13. What I would do if it is steel and not Cast iron, is I would weld a piece of tubing, weld a plate to the top, but have the plat the correct size so that the leg of the vice fits into one of the those holes that are on the outside of the disk. My vice stand is similar to that, but about half the size! Littleblacksmith
  14. I am working on a project that involves pattern welded steel and is made from some chain. It looks really good when I pull it out of the etchant (diluted Pheric chloride) but then after I pull it out of the neutralizing solution and wipe of the oxides, the layers all look similar, and there isn't as much contrast as I would like. I understand, it depends a lot on the steels, but when I pull it out of the etchant it looks really, really good and has great contrast. So, is there a way to keep this oxide? One thought I had, was what if after I removed it from the neutralizing solution, lightly dab off some of the water, and let the rest air dry. Then, spray it with some clear coat? Option 1 I had heard that cold gun bluing works well. I may try that on a scrap piece. Does it cause it to have a good contrast, or keep the layers the same color, Or just etch them to different depths? Option 2 In my research that I did, I came up with this on another forum- "Also, another trick that helps maintain the dark of 1084 for me is to begin by doing a relatively deep etch (I usually do 3-5 10 minute etches, scrubbing with 000 steel wool between each to clear the oxides). Then, when you come out of the last etch, flood the blade with acetone and wait for it to evaporate off. Do not wipe! Then, straight into boiling water with baking soda mixed in to neutralize for 3-5 minutes. Pull the blade out, let the water evaporate off (only takes a few seconds) and then IMMEDIATELY oil or it will take on a brown rust tinge within a minute or so. Then use some 2000 grit on a hard block to shine up the highs."-Deker I was wondering, if instead of oiling it at the end, spraying with some clear coat? option 3 So, which one sounds best? option 1, 2, or 3? Thank you guys sooo much! ya'll don't know how much ya'll have helping me! Littlblacksmith
  15. Thank you. I just wasn't wanting to say "this is the way, it WILL work" and end up ruining his work with my advice somehow. Littleblacksmith