• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About littleblacksmith

  • Rank
    The Kid With Too Many Questions...
  • Birthday 08/19/2002

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    [email protected]

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    College Station, Texas
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bottle/dump digging, metal detecting, coin collecting, learning about history, survival/pioneer skills, and spending time in the great outdoors!

Recent Profile Visitors

5,509 profile views
  1. Thanks! Littleblacksmith
  2. A square center punch made from 7/8" coil spring, a surprise for someone. I kinda screwed it up, by that I tried doing something different with the striking end, using a set hammer and the edge of the anvil to forge it octagonaly (new word). It got a little wonkey, choppy, and rombusy, all three my least favorite. Man, JHCC is gonna be all over me for this post. Hahaha. Littleblacksmith
  3. Ok, good to hear that, actually that's GREAT!! Yes, lots of opinions. This is mine. It doesn't matter who is holding the grinder, you are still doing the same thing; removing the face. In the words of Mr. Powers; "don't take off any more off the face than you would your own, and do your own first!" Or something along those lines. Now a 32nd is really not much, can be done with a wire weel removing a 32nd of the rust, or with hot steel, which ever you prefer. you could probably get by without much damage. Littleblacksmith
  4. wow, that's quite something! Littleblacksmith
  5. Nothing professional about grinding an anvil. It takes life out of the tool, and you don't help it but actually do harm to it. A anvil with sharp 90degree edges and a perfectly flat face isn't necessary. Those edges are far from bad. I almost never use a sharp edge, and if I need one, I can use a hardy tool that has sharp edges on it, or my striking anvil, though that is lower. Could you take a pic of the third hole closer to the step of the anvil? is it round or square, go all the way through? I'm just curiose. good find. Littleblacksmith
  6. Hammer Making tongs. Forged from 3/4" coil spring, third pair I've made. Littleblacksmith
  7. worked some on the guard for a pattern welded steel blade. The etche on it was just to get an idea of the pattern, its not the final one, I still have to heat treat the blade.
  8. From my granny's barn, like I said she is moving, so having to go through stuff. old wench, Alamo ironworks San Antonio Texas, started as a blacksmith shop and foundry on the banks of the San Antonio river in 1875, and the company is still in existence. It's purty cool, don't know what to do with though. hahah. Handle looks hand forged, and wrought iron, wrapped eye. Littleblacksmith
  9. Aaaahhhh the evolution of tool making! love it, I enjoyed that a lot! You can make a hand held v tipped punch to punch it if you'd like, or if you really want to get fancy you can weld on a handle so you don't roast your hand. got it. I forge just about all my hand tools, obviously not my anvil, and not all my hammers, though about 4 of them I made and still making more. And the ones I did buy were bought with money I made selling stuff that I made. I get my graphite from the link that John in Oly, WA mentioned. Here is a link to the thread I started on the evolution of tool making. Starting with just a hammer and hot cut and making all the tools to make the hammer and hot cut! Littleblacksmith
  10. ooohhh that looks like it would be a fun one, though every blacksmith from the state would be there and I wouldn't be surprised if the prices were high...that's a lot of Vulcans....I want those axes.... Littleblacksmith
  11. were you slitting a hole or drifting a hole?? A drift is something you drive through a piece of metal to get to the final shape, a punch is what you use to actually create the hole. I take it out every hit, it cools itself. when it gets stuck, I cool the punch off in a can of beeswax and graphite mix that cools it slower than water, and lubricates the punch tip. Also when removing it ever hit you don't run the risk of cooling it when it is above critical temperature and hardening it, which sounds like that may have happened. I don't recommend you "re heat treating it" as it is a waist of time. Like Jlpservicesinc said, they will normalize themselves in use, and you loose their temper the first use. Also, no reason to anneal the 4140 before it is being forged, afterwards though could be of benefit if you were to be doing any grinding or filing. Basically, anything you do before critical temperature is lost once you go above it when we're talking about heat treating. Not so much about the issue you are having right now, but I recommend using a punch rather than slitting a hole when making any hole in steel, and especially when I want it to be able to hold up to some hits. with a slitter, you don't punch a plug out, but just create a bubble that you then pop when you back punch creating cold shuts inside the eye, weakening the eye. Using a punch, you get a nice clean hole, no "rag" and a stronger eye in this case. Look up the "Brian Brazeal Punch" to get an Idea of a punch that works well for hammer making, its what I and lots of others use and enjoy, works great. I can post some pics if you would like, I have found it hard to find a good pic of the actual tip of the punch and the grind of it. Littleblacksmith
  12. Since we are on the subject of using scrap steel, etc., be sure not to use any plated or galvanized steel, as it gives of dangerous and fatal fumes when heated. Littleblacksmith
  13. You don't need 5 gallons to quench your thirst. He sounded disappointed that he only had 120 square feet of workspace. I was telling him that he may not need more than that, and that not all "great" "cool" things are 40 foot railings, and that small things are good too. I wasn't trying to tell him, "work past the limitations of your shop so you can get yourself killed", so thank you Thomas though, because if you thought that was what I meant, then there must have been others, thank you for giving the chance to clarify. At this point it sounds like this is still a hobby, and that he will be doing knives, so, he doesn't need a 6,000 square foot shop, and this is what he has, he cant make it bigger, so he HAS to use the space, and work with what he's got. Littleblacksmith
  14. true, I should have said I don't bother heat treating punches made from coil spring, very good point! Now, If I was to make a punch from H13, I think I would. Littleblacksmith
  15. Hey, don't let the size of the shop limit the greatness of the projects. Mine is 10'X10', I do just fine, now, I'm not making 40 foot railings... But, dynamite comes in a small package, great things don't have to be big. Littleblacksmith welcome to the forum!