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Found 5 results

  1. Picked this hammer up at an equipment auction in San Jose CA. Paid $400! Was missing oiler, and dies - otherwise complete. It has been working in my shop for last 7 years and I'm a fan. Great all around hammer. Here is video of hammer in operation.
  2. I promised a month ago to the Iron Dwarf I'd write a review for his forge and what I learnt, and as I hope you'll all understand, if you don't do it there and then life gets in the way and by the time you get to it a month has passed and you're also apologising. So, when I started posting in April, Iron Dwarf kindly invited me to learn a thing at his place Glendon Forge in Kettering, I believe he's open most weekends unless hes away at a show and readily welcomes old and newbies alike to chat or have a go heating and hitting, In the short time I was there I was introduced to another chap, Copper Elf who showed me how much to heat, twist, taper, flatten, scroll, rat tail, cut, bend and blacken, I made a bottle opener and a hammer in hook, and I'm using them both, Thanks CE. I am really impressed with his forge design, Very simple and easy to use, and they're available to buy at about a tenth of the price of some ive seen as he has said in previous threads, and they're completely transportable, and really quickly put up and taken down, the air intake is particularly ingenious and can even be used as a BBQ or spit, with the right coal of course, he also makes cut off hardies and is currently designing a power hammer. All in in all my first introduction to blacksmithing on a personal level has been amazing and very helpful and I definitely think Anyone who wants to get into it should spend just a couple of hours with someone who knows what they're doing, is there a visit my forge thread? There should be. Iron Dwarfs forges are available and they are brilliant .
  3. Ok as promised here is my review of my My new clay Spencer Inline treadle hammer, after testing. I spent the day in the shop yesterday and finally had a chance to hit some hot metal with her. My wife won the naming contest and named it “Jenny” as according to her a female mule is called a Jenny and well she (the hammer not the wife) kicks like one. the plans where fairly well written and easy enough to follow that a fool like me with no fab experience could build this hammer the majority of the 6months spent on this project was spent acquiring major components and only 1.5 months of weekends where spent on actual assembly, I did not keep a time sheet but if I had to guess I spent around 150-200 hrs spent on construction. There are a few options in the plans my anvil ended up being a 6” round 370lb solid anvil, the hammer I opted for a 3” round solid as opposed to a 2.75” round solid this gave me a 80 lb ram vs 65lb , I also upgraded the base plate to ¾ From ½ inch plate. Total theoretical machine weight of 750lbs the rest of the parts used where to spec. my test yesterday was limited to flat plates only as I have built no other tooling just yet I used two pieces of 1045 1” round stock cut to 1” for comparison one was hit 3 times with my previous heavy hitter a 2.5 kg peddinghaus one hand sledge which is no fun to forge with for any length of time. The other was hit 3 times with Jenny between the hard plates which are 4x4x1” 4140 ht the results are as follows hand sledge was upset to .895 thousandths treadle hammer .810 thousandths This was a little less than I expected but I was experiencing problems with my treadle hammer as the plans listed 150lbs garage door extension springs which are cut in half and 3 halves are used to counterbalance the hammer, I had hoped the poor performance on the return of the hammer would improve with use. But I seems the listed springs are just not enough with the upgraded hammer weight so to get a full blow out of the hammer I had to lift the treadle the last half of the total stroke distance with my foot so I could then strike with a full blow this took some getting used to and is less than ideal. Later after some practice I could manage 10-15 blows in a 1 minute heat but it was not quite right. I ran a second test on a piece of 1018 1” sq scrap struck on the 1” side that was roughly 1.25 inches long to start I gave it 2 heats and 20 blows as fast as I could manage and reduced it to .580 from 1.010 not bad but lifting the treadle was starting to get to me. So I ran back to Homedepot as they sell one size larger spring rated at 160lbs . After dinner and I got back out and swapped out the springs with two halves from the stronger spring and one original this was enough to lift the hammer a little better but still not quite all the way up with tooling in place so I took it apart once more and changed out the last spring and was rewarded with a nice crisp rise of the hammer all the way to the top of the stroke. But as I live in the city with neighbors near and it was now midnight I had to call it quits if you are planning on building this design I would just go straight to the larger 160lb Springs if you are using a 3” round for your hammer if you stick with the 2 ¾ “ you can probably stick with the lighter 150”lb springs if so I have an extra set I can sell you at cost or a little less. Over all I am more than pleased with my new toy I am hoping I can do a little better without having to lift the treadle Monday I will be building drawing dies and a flat shelf die to fit the bottom die so I can get a ½ face blow to make tongs and will post results next weekend.
  4. I dont know if last post worked, sorry if i duplicate... I am looking for some reviews or comments on the Blu max 110 power hammer. I have an opportunity to buy a used one wich worked about 20 hours and was wondering about the quality of the whole thing. I want to have a power hammer for the long run and already had some issues with the hand hammers of this compagny. Any advice would be great! If someone has one, would be nice to get info about how it's doing. Thank you François
  5. Hello everyone, this is my first post on I Forge Iron! Thank you for all the hard work you do both maintaining the site, and responding to questions. It's a relief to a newbie like me to be able to get answers from pros who've been there, rather than guesswork. My question is, are there any gas forges that you would recommend? I don't have any welding experience yet, so I can't make one. I was looking at the Whisper Momma but before I took the plunge, I wanted your input on if there is something better out there, or more suiting, if you're willing. My main focus in blacksmithing will be tool smithing, and general functional blacksmithing rather than artistry/sculpture. Also, I will probably do architectural/artistry work for practice and gifting, but not for public use. What I'd like from a gas forge will probably seem like I'm asking for the moon, but here goes. I'd like a forge that has a clamshell design (not necessary, but seemingly helpful for larger work), or at least a fairly spacious interior that allows for a 7+ inch width, 3+ in height, 5+ in. depth. Basically, enough for small plates (i.e. for coal shovel, smithin' magician), general tools (hammer, tongs) etc. I'd like for the forge to be of a venturi type. I will be working without electricity, so a blown forge and natural gas is a no go. A forge that has enough heat for forgewelding, specifically, hot enough for chain links, basket welds, etc. One that is also safe, reliable, and gas efficient. While not necessary, one that is easy to repair would also be helpful for me. Also, while these don't have to do with picking a forge, they kind of are related safety wise. About how long does it take to cool off once it's shut down? I figured checking hoses, making sure there aren't any leaks, don't tip the propane, stabilize and keep the forge on inflammable materials are all essential practices, but are there any other safety concerns for a gas forge that I should know about? Any particular size of propane tank that you would recommend, and if it isn't too invasive, the typical cost I'd be looking at? I read a couple articles on iforge, about protecting the refractory with stainless steel or kiln shelving. Are there other methods of protecting the refractory from flux, but can still take the heat? Thanks again for your help and your interest, I appreciate it.