Daswulf

Will you be EFI? (Electronic fuel injected) sorry just thinking of when that was actually a badging on cars. still praying you get through to a complete recovery. The road isn't always smooth or straight.

Rusted forge is fine to use. Rusted out takes longer but would not be fine, and is not likely to be a problem for you any time too soon. Then again I have not seen the details of your solid fuel forge. Is it home made from plans or just sort of like a design you saw? Or is it a purchased one? You mention bituminous coal so that is what I assume you are using. Yes it can get smokey starting out but once you get a good forging fire going and you have banked coal being raked in from the sides it usually isn't bad. I do tend to get sootier using my out door demo forge than I do my home forge with a hood and stack. A hood and stack can be added to an outdoor forge. Watering down the coal isnt just something you do. There is a reason. That is if your banked coal is dry and it is burning instead of coking. Just dowsing water over your coal fire is pointless and bad unless you are trying to put it out quick for some odd reason. To normally put it out, just cut the air supply and spread out the coals and it will be out and cold quicker than you might think. No problem with starting a charcoal fire and adding coal. But, the coal Will still smoke as it cokes down. Maybe a little at a time. No water In the fire pot. In fact leave it alone unless you see the coal outside the fire pot catching fire. Then just a sprinkle around the outside of the fire pot. I think you may have been smoking yourself out with the water. You do need to maintain a solid fuel fire. With coal when it has been burning, watch out for clinker buildup and poke it out and rake in the coal as needed from the edge of the pot where the coal has been heating and coking. Can we get better pics of your forge? This is a fraction of info i have in mind but will be a start for now.

You guys have me thinking of Art Bell with coast to Coast Am. While it was talk, it was entertaining, thought provoking and inspirational. I still can hear the intro tunes in my head now. Got me through many of late nights. Been reluctant to post on this but yeah, that made me. Other than that I will keep my yap shut because I could easily annoy with everything I find inspirational.

Looks nice. Gatta love that much space between the front and the engine. Makes me think of all the deer hits we've been getting where the rads were pushed into the engine. Love the good old beefy cars.

In autobody I see too many young techs that want to just learn the tricks without learning the concept first or having a full understanding of the process. Like the story of the old timer that gets paid well because he knows where when and how to tap the machine with the hammer to get it working right, not just that he taps it with a hammer.

You may not prefer that handle style, but I Really like it. I also like the handle styles you usually prefer to make. Elegant and precision work and photography as always. Thanks for letting us have a look and admire.

Nice assortment of usable tools there. You could do all kinds of shaping with em. That's a steal at $50. Great score. In the middle of picture two looks like a tool last stand.

Meant a coarse metal file. I don't know much about hoof rasps to say if there are different coarseness. Lets clarify, do you intend to hot rasp metal you are forging on to clean up edges and smooth surfaces, or do you intend to forge it into something. I gathered that you want to use it to hot rasp your work. Anyway, you could just get one and give it a shot. The toothy side will be too aggressive but the file side will dull a bit in use. It will be bitey at first.

If you are buying new, why not just buy a cheaper coarse file. Maybe just me but there isn't much in forging I find myself needing a rasp for that a coarse file wouldn't handle. Yeah the teeth on the file side of the rasp would bite a bit much but a coarse file would do the job. If you are set on dulling a new rasp i would probably "lightly" grind over it with an angle grinder with a stone or abrasive disk then test it and repeat till it was to my liking.

Now that you have the flatter for pipe, slide an oval section on the handle and weld it up.

Great news Paul. Praying you heal now and stay healthy.

I Always recommend buying the tools you need before the box. There are Always cheap storage options. The box doesn't make you money till you have made money with the tools and more quality storage would benefit. Wish I knew or listened to that earlier off. I have seen Way too many young techs tricked by the tool guys into buying storage before the tools. Often times wanting to borrow certain tools but they have a fancy tool box. Don't get tricked. I had a storage problem not a tool problem with this purchase. I was many years fine without it. Tools, use and space has grown to where it was worth it. Bosses at work often are guilty of paying big money for things that are less neccessary than things that are, even when the techs know what is lacking and say so. . I see that as well and deal with it. Their shop... Often you can need to rely on the warranty, so why pay hundreds when tens of dollars offer you the same. While i wish I knew then what I know now. some of the more specialized tools weren't around then. I also still have some of the cheap tools from back then still in use today and still holding strong. Also I bought a scratch and dent for a fraction. I Know it won't stay nice forever in my shop. Some bang ups don't bother me, when function is key, to save a bunch of money. Used is an option too. If you do look for one Make sure it will fit the type of tools you have. This one has deeper drawers. (Better for my storage needs) Mechanics might get by better with more shallow drawers. It is a tool but one you purchase after you have the main tools you need. Just don't need it, want it when you are ready and wait for the right time and deal to come around. Rarely does a toolbox appreciate in value.

Bluerooster, in my opinion, cornwell is mostly reasonably priced for the quality. Mac used to be before their heads got fat from sponsoring the tv show Monster Garage, then their prices went up a lot. Snap on has mostly heavily inflated prices. Matco is give or take. All of them have some good deals here or there but I only ever go on the Cornwell truck about every week. They, in my opinion, are still the most fair price wise and are consistent in my area. The local snap on dealer is consistent in my area now but back a few some years they left me hanging leaving a sour taste. They are consistent now. Each has certain tools that are unique or better than others and worth the price. As far as sockets and wrenches, I recommend Gearwrench for the quality and price. Far as battery powered, I prefer Milwaukee most for the versatility and price, and cornwell deals them as well. All 3 of my toolboxes are now cornwell. My one big one at work and now two at home. To be honest, harbor freight carries some nice tool boxes now for the money. Might not be as deep but they are solid. Considering a top hutch box from them in the future for on the new box if a deal for a factory fit one doesn't pop up. It wouldn't be a perfect fit but would fit and function. Bwoollcombe, sounds like an awesome once in a lifetime deal. Congrats. Look forward to pics.

This Finally followed me home in my trailer from off the cornwell truck at work. Been waiting a few months to take delivery but no time ever worked for both of us so I took my trailer and met up at my work to get it. 79" long, scratch and dent sale. Got it for a fraction of what they normally are. Now so many of my homeless tools will have a home to be put away into and I will spend Way less time looking for them. Plus I can unload much off the top of the other box. One of the kittens came to check out what was going on as well. Lol

Les, nice work on the angel. Arthur, those are some fine looking tools that will no doubt be very useful. Interesting way of making the hardy hole. Thanks for the in progress picture.

I had one sort of like in the last picture happen when I quenched it but it was in a spot that wasn't too much of a worry. Other ones didn't have any. No need to waste it, you could see if it will make a smaller blade. It is a lot of work but that is how we get better. We gave up after a failure or two we wouldn't get far. Just to ask, the cable is solid metal strands and not a rope center correct? I've been using a bit thicker cable on mine.

Early off in the heating and fluxing process I put it in a vise and twist it tighter. Few taps then reflux and reheat. It can tend to want to spread out and separate if you don't keep it tightly twisted.

Tongs are looking good. You need to keep the cable tight, well heated and well fluxed as you go. It is a workout.

Yup. Fun when it is so soft and dull to hammer at first then when you finally feel and hear that tinking and it is a solid bar.

Cable is challenging by hand but fun and gets neat results when it goes right. Nice work all around. I can see why you keep getting more orders.

If i were looking for something ultra portable I would buy that. At the moment I have too many welders and no need for ultra portable. I have taken my Lincoln 135 mig welder to a few locations with the co2/argon mix bottle to help out some friends in a pinch. I do own a lincoln tombstone stick welder but have not used it yet and have never stick welded. Pretty sure I could get the hang of it quicker than tig welding. Ya can't beat something like that setup for $70. if you wanted small and a usable welder.

Just watched this demo of a pro welder trying out a $70. Welder. Honestly looks like it works well.

Well now... So, I look up "snoot jewelry", then having no real understanding of why I am seeing what, I look up "snoot". Lol, thanks Frosty. What a weird rabbit hole to go down. Nothing bad really, just... different...

How realistic are they ohio? If they came from a school they are probably good quality. Good quality skeletons fetch a premium. The cheap ones they sell now are even $40. or so. While they are getting better with some of the articulations, they aren't the best looking for realism.

We only have so much time to play. I get it. "I'll eventually get to that." I have tons of ideas for other halloween props as well. I haven't had the time i used to to go all out decorating for halloween. Maybe when my girls get a little older and can help more and require less supervision. Just keep moving and do what you can when you can. Yeah sad about the typewriters. I only tear apart dysfunctional stuff to make art from.