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  1. So I understand that in a solid fuel forge, the refractory material for the forge lining isn't as important as for a gas forge, however, I've made a mix to line my new side blast JABOD style forge and I'd like some of you guy's opinions and advise on the matter. The mix is 2 parts clay, 2 parts lime and 1 part wood ash. I'm thinking the clay and lime will form a solid and tough structure and the wood ash and lime will help to increase the temperature I can reach without starting the melt the lining. Would this work? Or should I add something else to the mix?
  2. Hi everyone! Please, I know, before you bash me, this has been asked hundreds of times. The problem I have is that I have ABSOLUTELY no access to any of the 2000C° plus refractory linings. I live on a small island in Portugal, there are no blacksmith, no forges, so no forge related stores. And due to EU regulations, most refractories contain chemicals not really suitable for exportation/importation so any outside shops I find, don't ship them here. I managed to buy a decent amount of ceramic blanket, but I'll be getting my cancer through smoking, so I need to coat it. So I was thinking if
  3. Just got done with a great visit to Wayne Coe’s place. Picked up some refractory, allot of good information and my wife and kids enjoy themselves. Seeing a ribbon burner first hand tempted me to start over, however that’s a significantly larger investment...... Ok bad jokes aside I’m sticking with my plan for a 20# propane tank build using 2) 3/4” T burners (thank you for the emails Frosty.) Follow the directions and go shopping without the distraction of 3 children and you can’t go wrong. Spent $60 on hardware I didn’t have or could get from a friend to make 2 burners. Waiting on my A
  4. Hey, i'm planning on making a small foundry for aluminum, I plan on using a mixture of Fire mortarclay, portland cement, and silica sand. Can anyone suggest a ratio and amount of water i should use.
  5. Hey, I'm new to the world of smelting, I'm going to turn an my useless 23'' Weber BBQ into a Foundry. My question is, what should my refractory solution be? I have a 50lbs bag of Mortar Fire Clay. I look online, and i can not find silica sand. perlite also seems really expensive. I'm looking for any suggestions, as I could us it graciously.
  6. I am wondering if anyone out there knows if you can use your broken insulating firebricks to make or improve refractory cement? They are so brittle and crumble easily and I was wondering if make them into powder then make your own refractory cement or improve existing cement?
  7. So many rigidizing is some strictly rigidized some help glue the ceramic blanket to the outside walls some reflect the heat back already have some plistex for a reflective thermal product because I’m too cheap for ITC but would rather rigidizevfirst and then apply a thermal reflective product as well as looking into some kind of sodium silicate for a way to glue the two -3 inches of ceramic blanket to the walls of them ribbon forge I’m about to be buildingOr should I just get some Mizzou cast a light and call it a day
  8. In the search for itc 100 replacements(price) I had learned the original formula was near 70 percent zircopax and 30 percent kaolin. When shopping i came across a high zirconia kiln wash from "The Ceramic Shop" and went to thinking. It has already been tested and formulated and its cheaper per pound.... So i bought a box and some zircopax and kaolin. My recipe was one cup wash, a third cup zircopax and one sixth cup kaolin. The mixture dried rock hard and seems to be very durable.
  9. Hey guys and gals! This question may have been answered already but I have searched on this forum and google and haven’t found an answer so here it goes! I’ve been trying to find a source for kast-o-lite or the equivalent up here in west central Saskatchewan but haven’t been able to find a source. I’ve looked online and have found it for sale but the shipping scares me! I was wondering if any fellow Canadians knew of an equivalent available here ? Or a source in the city of Saskatoon as I’ll be there tomorrow. thanks! Rylan
  10. Hi, this is my first post here. First of all, thank you for an impressive amount of information. I have been reading through most of the pinned threads here and am deligted to find so much good information. For those of you who don't care to read a long post, please skip to the text in bold below. This is what I really want to get input on. I have started a rather slow process of getting started with blacksmithing. I am not in a rush as it is winter and I am yet to build a new workshop since we moved. Most things are clear to me by now, but getting the materials is
  11. Hello, i wanna start by saying I’m brand new to this site so sorry if this is in the wrong forum. I’m just looking for some general information. I have a propane and fire brick forge currently but a few of my bricks have cracked and crumbled. I live in SW Florida and it’s literally impossible to find fire brick. I’ve searched high and low and nothing. I’ve decided to cast my own. The best recipe I can find is consisting of Portland cement I/II, hydrated lime, crushed silica and perlite. Im just wondering if anyone has tried the recipe and if so any tips on it. Thank you!
  12. Hello again, I've had some time to do research on different kinds of refractory material and I really like how the Kast-O-Lite 30Li sounds at first glance. I was wondering if I should coat the Kast-O-Lite in an IR refractory like ITC-100 (a little too pricey for me...) or Meeco's Red Devil 610 refractory cement (well with in my price range but unsure about efficacy). I have attached a ROUGH drawing of the front of the forge. Here is an overall idea of what I'm shooting for: Brushed stainless metal trash can for the shell (H=12" Dia=8") Hoping to do 2" of Kast-O-Lite to make
  13. How long does one inch thick castable refractory take to dry
  14. Hello all, I am going to start building my forge and I am just finishing ordering everything, I have a few questions about insulation. From what I have read, it seems like using ceramic wool is the easiest way to insulate a gas forge, I know it needs to be replaced once in a while because it wears down. Is it best to have 2" of insulation? And are you supposed to line the wool with refractory cement? Or just use straight wool? I know the stuff is bad for your lungs and I was wondering if it lets particles off in the air while it's burning. I plan on laying fire bricks on the very bottom of m
  15. Friend of mine gave me two bags of refractory cement, no info on them about mixing etc help a youngbuck out gentlemen.
  16. Sorry if this is already posted somewhere. I've searched and can't seem to find what I'm lookin for... Question/situation is that I live close to a ceramics/pottery supply place which carries all different raw materials i.e. Alumina Hydrate, Kaolin, kiln wash, zircopax, sodium silicate, fire clay etc. literally 75-100 different raw materials. Building another forge and instead of paying small fortune shipping a bag of refractory (ideally castable) or buying ITC 100, is there a way to make a homemade batch of this stuff? I understand ITC 100 is gonna be tough to beat but even if I could
  17. Hi everyone, new here and hope you can help. It took me 20 years but I finally talked my Dad out of his old forges. They need some work but I'm excited to do it. My plan is to put 2" ceramic blanket covered with 3/8" of refractory cement in these. The question is should I put anything on the hood? Worried about creating something too hot to move material in and out of. Any ideas? ill try to post pics of them.
  18. Hi all, I've got a Buffalo rivet forge that's the brink of death; the blower is a little champ but the hearth pan is another story. If I don't do something to line the pan is gonna be a goner for sure. I found a picture of a forge almost identical to my own on ebay. (see picture) When I asked the seller how he went about lining the pan he reported to using tile mortar; which seemed dubious to me. So I delved into the iforge forums and found two promising posts. The fist, complements of Charles R. Stevens: He suggested "...buy powderd clay, (fire clay) and mix it with sand
  19. Here it is simply, I've built a few forges, all worked grand. Now im trying a charcoal forge however i'm putting no money into it. Ive built what would seem like a whitlox v ripoff. All i have. Is fire repair cement, not actual fire cement. Are there any known problems with using only repair cement (also labelled fire brick mortar). Im not too knowledgable about refract cements.
  20. I've been planning for a while now to rework my brake drum forge. The drum I used is off an old house trailer and has a 13 1/2" inner diameter and a depth of 3 1/2" it just burned too much coal. It helped after a while that I had built up a good bit of coal ash and such filling in thecorners and making it more of a bowk, but it still was too spread out for my liking. I had been given most of a bag of PacoCast 28 li castable refractory and had been planning to use it to make a more restricted and slope sided firepot. Well Friday I gave half of the refractory to a young guy I met who works at th
  21. I purchased a point of ITC 100 from Anvilfire and followed the instructions very carefully. I did have a few questions and I asked Jock and did what he said. After I coded it I let it air dry with a lightbulb for five days and then did a firing my furnace is a propane furnace that holds a number six crucible. Today's the first day I saw it since the filing and on the interior of the furnace the coating has separated and some of it is falling off I can't get in touch with jock. Seems somethings wrong with his website wondering if anybody has any suggestions kind of bummed because that stuff
  22. Hey everyone I'm new here. I want to start by saying I've learned a lot already. That being said building the ole first forge and I have not seen a ton of info about combining insulating methods. I was going to try pearlite and refractory to close the cavity in my 22 propane tank. Then an inch fiber blanket soaked in sanite. Once hardened coat with cement. Just for knife making maybe forge welding down the road. Not sure I saw this combo anywhere. Is the pearlite all bad news? I heard it can sag.
  23. Has anyone used this stuff? http://www.rescoproducts.com/docs/PDS/Pacocast%2028LI%20PDS.pdf According to the data sheet, it is rated at 2800f. Would that be sufficient for coating over kaowool in a forge being set up for welding small pw billets?
  24. I was given about ten to fifteen pounds of Kastolite 23 LI Plus. Everything I can find on here referencing Kastolite is Kastolite 30. Is there anything I could do to make it worth using in a gas forge?
  25. I’m looking for suggestions on casting a large 12” X 24” floor in a new forge. I’ve cast a floor in Resco Vibracast 60PC and it works and is very strong but has to high a thermal conductivity 14 BTU/ft2/Hr/°F/in. I see the Kast-O-Lite products are in the 4-4.5 range. Can I cast a floor this size a 1.25” thick and have it stay together? It will be on top of 1” of thermal blanket. Is there a better product to use? Should I include stainless needles in the mix to increase the strength? I don’t forge weld so I don’t care about flux issues. Thank You, Quake
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