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Found 26 results

  1. Just got done with a great visit to Wayne Coe’s place. Picked up some refractory, allot of good information and my wife and kids enjoy themselves. Seeing a ribbon burner first hand tempted me to start over, however that’s a significantly larger investment...... Ok bad jokes aside I’m sticking with my plan for a 20# propane tank build using 2) 3/4” T burners (thank you for the emails Frosty.) Follow the directions and go shopping without the distraction of 3 children and you can’t go wrong. Spent $60 on hardware I didn’t have or could get from a friend to make 2 burners. Waiting on my American made 30psi regulator with a gauge and stainless covered line to get here. I’m also waiting on fumed silica for rigidizing the wool and stainless flares. Considering using stainless for the mounting bracket but I haven’t decided if the extra cost is going to be that great of a long term investment. I’ve already got plans to build a ribbon burner and make the mounts redundant so share your thoughts. Finished internal volume I’m guessing will be close to 400 cubic inches give or take. This forge should be enough to get me tong and tooled up since last I heard everything from my pre USMC days are gone for good. It will also give me time to build a ribbon burner the right way.
  2. Hey, i'm planning on making a small foundry for aluminum, I plan on using a mixture of Fire mortarclay, portland cement, and silica sand. Can anyone suggest a ratio and amount of water i should use.
  3. SweetPeaWilly

    Backyard BBQ Forge

    Hey, I'm new to the world of smelting, I'm going to turn an my useless 23'' Weber BBQ into a Foundry. My question is, what should my refractory solution be? I have a 50lbs bag of Mortar Fire Clay. I look online, and i can not find silica sand. perlite also seems really expensive. I'm looking for any suggestions, as I could us it graciously.
  4. I am wondering if anyone out there knows if you can use your broken insulating firebricks to make or improve refractory cement? They are so brittle and crumble easily and I was wondering if make them into powder then make your own refractory cement or improve existing cement?
  5. So many rigidizing is some strictly rigidized some help glue the ceramic blanket to the outside walls some reflect the heat back already have some plistex for a reflective thermal product because I’m too cheap for ITC but would rather rigidizevfirst and then apply a thermal reflective product as well as looking into some kind of sodium silicate for a way to glue the two -3 inches of ceramic blanket to the walls of them ribbon forge I’m about to be buildingOr should I just get some Mizzou cast a light and call it a day
  6. NateHMirage

    Mock ITC 100

    In the search for itc 100 replacements(price) I had learned the original formula was near 70 percent zircopax and 30 percent kaolin. When shopping i came across a high zirconia kiln wash from "The Ceramic Shop" and went to thinking. It has already been tested and formulated and its cheaper per pound.... So i bought a box and some zircopax and kaolin. My recipe was one cup wash, a third cup zircopax and one sixth cup kaolin. The mixture dried rock hard and seems to be very durable.
  7. Rylan Fletcher

    Kast-O-Lite equivalents

    Hey guys and gals! This question may have been answered already but I have searched on this forum and google and haven’t found an answer so here it goes! I’ve been trying to find a source for kast-o-lite or the equivalent up here in west central Saskatchewan but haven’t been able to find a source. I’ve looked online and have found it for sale but the shipping scares me! I was wondering if any fellow Canadians knew of an equivalent available here ? Or a source in the city of Saskatoon as I’ll be there tomorrow. thanks! Rylan
  8. EspenL

    Planning my first gas forge

    Hi, this is my first post here. First of all, thank you for an impressive amount of information. I have been reading through most of the pinned threads here and am deligted to find so much good information. For those of you who don't care to read a long post, please skip to the text in bold below. This is what I really want to get input on. I have started a rather slow process of getting started with blacksmithing. I am not in a rush as it is winter and I am yet to build a new workshop since we moved. Most things are clear to me by now, but getting the materials is a real pain in the neck here in Noway. We have a very small domestic market, and since we're outside the EU many products are expensive to ship. I have located reasonable sources of most of the things I need. Some I will order from Wayne here at the forum and some I have found on ebay. But the refractory I would like to get here. I have not been able to find anyone selling Cast-O-Lite 30, but there is a local producer that makes a product called Borgcast 85. It compares well to Cast-O-lite 30 in most aspects apart from the thermal conductivity: 1.9 W/m*K at 1000C for Borgcast 85 vs 0.65 W/m*K for Kast-o-lite 30. Can anyone comment on whether this will be an issue? I am planning to insulate with 2" Kaowool, but am worried about the liner becoming a heat sink if I use Borgcast 85. For those curius, here are the rest of the numbers: (Borgcast 85 vs Cast-O-lite 30) -Alumina content: 83% vs 56.6% for for Kast-o-lite 30. -Maximum recommended temperature 1700C/3092F. vs 1650°C/3000F -Permanent Linear Change Borgcast 85: - after firing at 110C: 0% - after firing at 1200C: -0.3% - after firing at 1400C -0,4% - after firing at 1600C: -0,4% Kast-o-lite: After 220°F (105°C) Nil After 1500°F (815°C) -0.2 After 2000°F (1095°C) -0.2 After 2500°F (1370°C) +2.0 After 2910°F (1599°C) +1.0 -Modulus of Rupture and Cold crushing strength CCS: 130MPa vs 17.2MPa for Kast-O-Lite 30 MoR: 16-20 vs 5.5MPa For the rest of the forge the plan is as follows: Shell: Helium tank or other empty vessel I can get hold of. Gas tanks are expensive here (>$100), so that is not an option. Insulation: Kaowool from WAYNE COE Rigidizer: Fumed silica from ebay (Cab-O-Sil M5). Dissolved in water with food coloring and spritzed on the insulation. Then fire with the burner to set. Kiln wash: Plistix IR reflective from Wayne, or Zirconium silicate (Zirkosil) from a domestic provider. Burner: Black pipe and fittings are not easy to get here. We use plastic for water pipes and there is no residential gas. In an eager moment I bought a 1" burner from Alec Steele. Yada yada! But I found his site first, and it was his enthusiasm that eventually brought me here! I later realized that I could probably buy stainless pipes and fittings from china and make one myself for much cheaper, but done is done... Regulator: Propane regulator from local gas supplier. Using 11L barbecue tanks it will supply up to 30 psi and a bit more than 2kg per hour. Using industrial tanks is as far as I understand not practical/possible for private persons here. I am in any case limited in tank size, as the tanks have to be carried up steep stairs from the road. If I get trouble with freezing I can connect two tanks in parallel. I have verified that parts for that are available here. Hoping I have done my homework well, and looking forward to your input! Borgcast 85.pdf
  9. GarrettC90

    Casting fire brick

    Hello, i wanna start by saying I’m brand new to this site so sorry if this is in the wrong forum. I’m just looking for some general information. I have a propane and fire brick forge currently but a few of my bricks have cracked and crumbled. I live in SW Florida and it’s literally impossible to find fire brick. I’ve searched high and low and nothing. I’ve decided to cast my own. The best recipe I can find is consisting of Portland cement I/II, hydrated lime, crushed silica and perlite. Im just wondering if anyone has tried the recipe and if so any tips on it. Thank you!
  10. James Conyers

    Question on castable refractory

    Hello again, I've had some time to do research on different kinds of refractory material and I really like how the Kast-O-Lite 30Li sounds at first glance. I was wondering if I should coat the Kast-O-Lite in an IR refractory like ITC-100 (a little too pricey for me...) or Meeco's Red Devil 610 refractory cement (well with in my price range but unsure about efficacy). I have attached a ROUGH drawing of the front of the forge. Here is an overall idea of what I'm shooting for: Brushed stainless metal trash can for the shell (H=12" Dia=8") Hoping to do 2" of Kast-O-Lite to make a chamber of about 4" x 11" and have an exhaust port at the rear about 1.5" Hard fire brick as the floor (4.5"x9"x1ish") No refractory on these. Planning on having the burner pipe cast with the material then holding it in place with bolts. What say you fine folks? Any and all wisdom is greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to get this bad boy up to welding temps but we'll see. As always thanks for all the advice. Cheers! Big Jim (p.s. please excuse the horrible drawing in the image... I swear my 6 year old can draw better than me) Oh and I was also thinking of using the lid as a door to make the front opening smaller to retain more heat when I'm trying to weld. Kombae! Big Jim
  11. Forgehermet

    Refractory

    How long does one inch thick castable refractory take to dry
  12. Hello all, I am going to start building my forge and I am just finishing ordering everything, I have a few questions about insulation. From what I have read, it seems like using ceramic wool is the easiest way to insulate a gas forge, I know it needs to be replaced once in a while because it wears down. Is it best to have 2" of insulation? And are you supposed to line the wool with refractory cement? Or just use straight wool? I know the stuff is bad for your lungs and I was wondering if it lets particles off in the air while it's burning. I plan on laying fire bricks on the very bottom of my forge. Thanks in advance.
  13. Friend of mine gave me two bags of refractory cement, no info on them about mixing etc help a youngbuck out gentlemen.
  14. Sorry if this is already posted somewhere. I've searched and can't seem to find what I'm lookin for... Question/situation is that I live close to a ceramics/pottery supply place which carries all different raw materials i.e. Alumina Hydrate, Kaolin, kiln wash, zircopax, sodium silicate, fire clay etc. literally 75-100 different raw materials. Building another forge and instead of paying small fortune shipping a bag of refractory (ideally castable) or buying ITC 100, is there a way to make a homemade batch of this stuff? I understand ITC 100 is gonna be tough to beat but even if I could make something that would be half as good that would offset the price to buy and ship online. Forge I'm building is just a small portable propane forge, lined with 2" of Kaowool. Also , talked to someone at this pottery place few times and they didn't even know what ITC 100 was ... Haha Thanks!
  15. Wicked Edges

    Rebuilding old forges

    Hi everyone, new here and hope you can help. It took me 20 years but I finally talked my Dad out of his old forges. They need some work but I'm excited to do it. My plan is to put 2" ceramic blanket covered with 3/8" of refractory cement in these. The question is should I put anything on the hood? Worried about creating something too hot to move material in and out of. Any ideas? ill try to post pics of them.
  16. Hi all, I've got a Buffalo rivet forge that's the brink of death; the blower is a little champ but the hearth pan is another story. If I don't do something to line the pan is gonna be a goner for sure. I found a picture of a forge almost identical to my own on ebay. (see picture) When I asked the seller how he went about lining the pan he reported to using tile mortar; which seemed dubious to me. So I delved into the iforge forums and found two promising posts. The fist, complements of Charles R. Stevens: He suggested "...buy powderd clay, (fire clay) and mix it with sand use the waterglass to wet it, then case it (place it in a coverd container and let the moisture even out) if it's to wet leave the lid off till its the right consistancy..." I replied to his comment, but I'm new to posting on here, I'm not sure if it went through. Charles, if you see this, how much of each of these ingredients do you estimate I would need? And what consistency should the mix be for application? It is like pancake batter, putty or play-dough? Does any one else have suggestions on this? Another promising recipe from HWooldridge was posted a couple of years ago. He says: "I recently lined a Buffalo forge that has the lips an inch or so above the iron hearth and it turned out well. The process is based on something I learned years ago when I used to help my grandpa build houses. In addition to carpentry, he did some rock work and one thing we would do occasionally is reline fireplaces. On horizontal areas, he would make up a mix, apply it dry and level, then spray water on top. This would rock up in a day or so without cracking. The mix I used (based on his recipe) was 3 parts mortar, 3 parts clean sand, 1 part fireclay and 1 part dry lime. I mixed it, poured in the hearth to a depth that was flush to the top of the firepot and raked it smooth, then sprayed only enough water on it until the surface was wet. I let sit two days before making a fire and it had hardened nicely with no visible cracks anywhere. I think the minimal amount of water helps eliminate the cracking." I'm assuming he is referring to wetted mortar? But what type would be preferable? Any suggestions on this? I'm kind of lost... I apologize for posting a new topic on a subject that's been posted before; but while scouring these forums, I feel like I'm getting lost in all of the content. Please help! Here is a photo of the restored forge with a tile mortar lining: Thanks you guys, you all are always my first stop when I have a Blacksmithing question or problem to solve. -Kat
  17. BaileyMcAdam

    Repair Fire Cement

    Here it is simply, I've built a few forges, all worked grand. Now im trying a charcoal forge however i'm putting no money into it. Ive built what would seem like a whitlox v ripoff. All i have. Is fire repair cement, not actual fire cement. Are there any known problems with using only repair cement (also labelled fire brick mortar). Im not too knowledgable about refract cements.
  18. LastRonin

    Reworked Brake Drum Forge

    I've been planning for a while now to rework my brake drum forge. The drum I used is off an old house trailer and has a 13 1/2" inner diameter and a depth of 3 1/2" it just burned too much coal. It helped after a while that I had built up a good bit of coal ash and such filling in thecorners and making it more of a bowk, but it still was too spread out for my liking. I had been given most of a bag of PacoCast 28 li castable refractory and had been planning to use it to make a more restricted and slope sided firepot. Well Friday I gave half of the refractory to a young guy I met who works at the local Walgreen's that is getting into smithing so he could use it to help him get a better forge going than what he described to me. (I've also recommended ifi to him several times.) Anyway, I went ahead yesterday (Saturday) and mixed up some refractory and did what you see in the pic. The top is about 7" x 7" and has about a 50º slope down to about 4" × 4" at the bottom. Did I mess up doing this? What's you guys' opinion? I've already built a small propane forge and do believe my next one will probably be a welded firepot side blast.
  19. I purchased a point of ITC 100 from Anvilfire and followed the instructions very carefully. I did have a few questions and I asked Jock and did what he said. After I coded it I let it air dry with a lightbulb for five days and then did a firing my furnace is a propane furnace that holds a number six crucible. Today's the first day I saw it since the filing and on the interior of the furnace the coating has separated and some of it is falling off I can't get in touch with jock. Seems somethings wrong with his website wondering if anybody has any suggestions kind of bummed because that stuff is really expensive. I want to put a picture but I can't figure out how
  20. Hey everyone I'm new here. I want to start by saying I've learned a lot already. That being said building the ole first forge and I have not seen a ton of info about combining insulating methods. I was going to try pearlite and refractory to close the cavity in my 22 propane tank. Then an inch fiber blanket soaked in sanite. Once hardened coat with cement. Just for knife making maybe forge welding down the road. Not sure I saw this combo anywhere. Is the pearlite all bad news? I heard it can sag.
  21. LastRonin

    Paco Cast 28LI

    Has anyone used this stuff? http://www.rescoproducts.com/docs/PDS/Pacocast%2028LI%20PDS.pdf According to the data sheet, it is rated at 2800f. Would that be sufficient for coating over kaowool in a forge being set up for welding small pw billets?
  22. LastRonin

    KastOLite 23...

    I was given about ten to fifteen pounds of Kastolite 23 LI Plus. Everything I can find on here referencing Kastolite is Kastolite 30. Is there anything I could do to make it worth using in a gas forge?
  23. iron quake

    Cast Forge Floor

    I’m looking for suggestions on casting a large 12” X 24” floor in a new forge. I’ve cast a floor in Resco Vibracast 60PC and it works and is very strong but has to high a thermal conductivity 14 BTU/ft2/Hr/°F/in. I see the Kast-O-Lite products are in the 4-4.5 range. Can I cast a floor this size a 1.25” thick and have it stay together? It will be on top of 1” of thermal blanket. Is there a better product to use? Should I include stainless needles in the mix to increase the strength? I don’t forge weld so I don’t care about flux issues. Thank You, Quake
  24. megiddoblades

    Recommendation on gas forges?

    Hello everyone, this is my first post on I Forge Iron! Thank you for all the hard work you do both maintaining the site, and responding to questions. It's a relief to a newbie like me to be able to get answers from pros who've been there, rather than guesswork. My question is, are there any gas forges that you would recommend? I don't have any welding experience yet, so I can't make one. I was looking at the Whisper Momma but before I took the plunge, I wanted your input on if there is something better out there, or more suiting, if you're willing. My main focus in blacksmithing will be tool smithing, and general functional blacksmithing rather than artistry/sculpture. Also, I will probably do architectural/artistry work for practice and gifting, but not for public use. What I'd like from a gas forge will probably seem like I'm asking for the moon, but here goes. I'd like a forge that has a clamshell design (not necessary, but seemingly helpful for larger work), or at least a fairly spacious interior that allows for a 7+ inch width, 3+ in height, 5+ in. depth. Basically, enough for small plates (i.e. for coal shovel, smithin' magician), general tools (hammer, tongs) etc. I'd like for the forge to be of a venturi type. I will be working without electricity, so a blown forge and natural gas is a no go. A forge that has enough heat for forgewelding, specifically, hot enough for chain links, basket welds, etc. One that is also safe, reliable, and gas efficient. While not necessary, one that is easy to repair would also be helpful for me. Also, while these don't have to do with picking a forge, they kind of are related safety wise. About how long does it take to cool off once it's shut down? I figured checking hoses, making sure there aren't any leaks, don't tip the propane, stabilize and keep the forge on inflammable materials are all essential practices, but are there any other safety concerns for a gas forge that I should know about? Any particular size of propane tank that you would recommend, and if it isn't too invasive, the typical cost I'd be looking at? I read a couple articles on iforge, about protecting the refractory with stainless steel or kiln shelving. Are there other methods of protecting the refractory from flux, but can still take the heat? Thanks again for your help and your interest, I appreciate it.
  25. GustavDebels949

    To Clay, Or Not To Clay

    I got my coal forge from a neighbor farm that was long sense non operational. I've use it a hand full of times the way it sits, burning only coal. The forge does have the word "CLAY" cast into it, but I have never thought much of it. My questions are.... -Should I have the forge lined with refractory clay of some type? -Am I safe to burn coke in this forge without clay? -Where can I get refractory clay/ how can I make it? Thank you!