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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by NickOHH

  1. I figured it out, ended up being the pinion gear on the spindle, I used a thinner washer under the gear, I think it was changed at some point, gears mesh fine now and it runs smooth
  2. Hey all, it's been awhile since I've been around here but I just picked up this post drill and have cleaned it up, reassembled and mounted it , but when cranking the handle the pinion gear on the crank and the smaller gear above it to drive the flywheel are binding at one spot , I loosened the set screw and rotated the flywheel gear and it changes when it binds . There is a little but of play in both gears should there be bronze washers in between to take up the play or do I just need to keep playing with the flywheel gear to get it properly aligned , it seemed to spin fine before cleaning.
  3. Finished this little guy up. 2# carving axe , mild steel body with a 1095 bit insert 5 inch cutting edge, white oak haft
  4. Been awhile since I've been around here, been a busy year, got sometime to play with some fire this weekend though, hammer and a handled hot cut , 4140
  5. What kind of motor is it that your using a fan speed controller? Going to lose torque like crazy
  6. Thank you for sharing your process with us, I will definitely be giving this a try very soon!!
  7. Marcy is editing a longer video of whAt we got filmed , better video than what went up on FB.
  8. It weighs 144 , first number is while stone weights (112#) second is 1/4 stone weights (28#) and the 3rd is #s so it 112 +28+4=144 . You can use an angle grinder to smooth out the edges but I wouldn't be in a hurry , and if you feel you need to go light and just smooth them alil you can always do more if need be but putting metal back is much harder. A picture would help us know how bad ITIS.
  9. Not yet , the plate was wide than the anvil , so it needs to be trimmed to final size and ground before heat treat.
  10. The short edges could have a different radius on each of them the longer side could have say 1/8 on one end and transition into 1/4 or so inch radius on the other end ,matched on the opposite side
  11. Im not sure how many times it has been successfully done not in a manufacturing setting , but it isn't that many I don't think. It was an awesome project to get to be a part of, crazy Ivan was directing , with help from a couple other guys from PABA. Even wearing welding gloves , welding jackets and aprons , etc we all walked away with blisters and burns, the amount of heat was incredible. Took a good 2 hours to get to welding heat. We had a little delamination drifting the hardy to size after the 3rd heat , because we got it stuck , was way to short. But it was fluxed and re welded and it was fully welded by the end of the day. Welds were set with a hammer head attached to a long wraughy iron handle while it was still in the forge. The rest of the heats were 4 strikers and a gigantic flatter modded from a sledge hammer. The next one will be way easier and a water hardening steel will be the choice.
  12. Add charcoal and bit less air. I would want to add some sides that, maybe cut the barrel about 3 inches down and flip it over and tack it back to the barrel If your fire pot is just sitting in there . I would also take some clay or fire cement and smooth out the transition to the fire pot to make it easier to scoop the charcoal toward into the fire.
  13. Looks good, the whole is a bit big for my liking, I use a much thinner punch with a v shaped tip with 4 facets on it, takes out a very thin plug , makes it nice and easy to drive through. Just make sure to get it good and hot and stop once you see the color fading a bit, but keep at em and they will get easier! Can't wait to see the finished hammer.
  14. Hard to say , depends on where you are and whose looking.
  15. That's a Brooks, manufactured by Vaughn now if it doesn't say Brooks on it, I have the same one , love it, it's good and hard, beefy heel, good rebound.
  16. Is the coal hard and shiny looking and does it pop and crackle while your trying to light it? Bituminous is more dull and softer and will have alot of dust with it, no crackle pop, just lots of thick smoke until it cokes up.
  17. Popped up in my search engine after someone gave me the idea that I could forge my own woodworking tools, wasnt much for forums but glad I joined , great decision!
  18. Those edges look pretty sharp to me, I would use a flap disc to radius them a bit and that would take out those small chips. A crisp sharp edge like that has more tendency to chip much easier.
  19. I'm not to far away from Wilmington in PA, maybe 15 minutes from claymont ,no crazy shop or anything but we can get some metal hot, gladly teach you what the other fine smiths around have taught me so far. Shoot me a pm if you want to swing by sometime.
  20. As turbo said. Should be tapered toward the front and the back should be tapered in a bit like a smushed egg and I would taper it toward the tip a bit more legnth wise, you want the top wider than the bottom so when it's wedged it can't come free even if loose.
  21. Yup it was modified into a carving hatchet for sure, Asymmetric grind ,pretty common among green wood carvers.
  22. Could have been used for a carving axe also with that much radius on the bit , single bevel or near single gives you more control of your cuts , or it's just a hewing axe with many years of poor sharpening
  23. NickOHH

    Dale's daydream

    Gettin low, better hit the store.
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