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About CMS3900

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/12/1983

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  • Location
    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. Laminated striking anvil

    Most striking anvils are made out of low carbon or alloy and have little or no rebound. C1018 or 4140 type stuff. Stacking the plates and just welding them on the outside should be more than sufficient. No need to try to bond them together like people try to do with homemade anvils that their looking to get rebound out of.
  2. Hello from New Jersey

    Welcome to the Forums! Another good tip is checking out ABANA and it's local affiliates. Your in a good place to be a part of several blacksmithing groups.
  3. Anatomy and a brief history of simple side blast forges

    That's a lot of good information. I am still in the process of designing a side blast and was wondering what book that last picture came out of?
  4. Forced air burners??

    It's similar-ish to the ones I use. The blower he uses is 75 CFM so I would think it would get a small forge to welding heat no problem. A improvement on this design would be either a speed control or placing the air gate after the blower instead of the sliding gate on the side. Your burner is only one part of forge efficiency, so without knowing the rest it's hard to judge.
  5. Ol' rusty build

    People usually use a piece of solid bar inside a pipe. Pipe in a Pipe would work if you filled it with something I suppose. A lot of these type of hammers I have seen have no UHMW or bushing material. They just stay well oiled and run steel on steel. The life expectancy of the hammer isn't long enough to worry about things wearing out. I wouldn't worry about a concrete pad under it for starters. If it's on a dirt floor drive a stake in around it to keep from moving and try it. Also, that is a good idea on the dies to make them bolt on. RR track dies are more of a drawing die and you will probably find in the future that flat dies are much more useful and want to swap them out as resources become available.
  6. Ford anvil

    Dunno about that particular anvil, but Ford did have massive foundries. The Ford River Rouge Complex was one of the largest and advanced foundries of its kind in the world when built.
  7. Haybudden found today

    Nice looking anvil!
  8. I dig the gold lettering Frosty. I do that on all my machines.
  9. Press info. needed

    Also - "Hydraulic Forging Press for the Blacksmith" by Randy McDaniel has some good info, but is more geared to what you can do with it. He has some videos on youtube too that will give you a idea of whats in the book.
  10. If it looks like what you have in the picture then it is a OBI, or Open-Backed, Inclined press. They can be used for many things such as punching, stamping, notching and hot or cold forming in closed or semi-closed die systems. However, when a press like this is used to form parts ALL of the math has been worked out by the engineers who designed the die; accounting for the tonnage of the press and the volume and strength of the material being formed. The press will break if it does not continue through the stroke, or the belt will slip if lucky. Usually the work envelope on these presses is small, so a spring or cushion system there generally will not fit. Scrapping the workings of it and converting it into a hydraulic press might work if the press was large enough to accommodate the stresses, but why tear apart a perfectly good useful machine to have in the workshop. If I had the chance to get small OBI press cheap I would jump on it. I passed a couple up a while back and regret it. If it really doesn't work for you, sell it and turn it into something else.
  11. Welcome to IFI Matthias. I might be reading what your trying to do the wrong way, but it sounds to me like it's along the lines of Ric Furrer's Wootz process with different materials. He takes a clay vessel that has been fired, adds his ingredients, puts a fired clay top on it and seals it, and then heats it until everything is together. Check out "Secrets of the Viking Sword" if you get a chance, it might be on youtube. He goes over the process in it. I have yet to get to Furnace Town, but have heard it is really nice. Only about 2 hours away and I can never make it down there.
  12. Anvil and post vise base

    I think you have a solid base, but you might find the vise in the way in the future. I would suggest separating the two. The easiest way to attach the anvil is forge brackets like you said and lag bolt it to the base, or use chain and lags. I dunno if you know about them already, but I would check out the Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland in Westminster if you get a chance. Good local resource and great people.
  13. Japanese Blade Appraisal

    Even if it is a common NCO shin-gunto which were mass produced, it is pretty valuable. Your better off taking lots of good pictures and heading to a world war two collectors forum before you do anything with it. A lot of WWII memorabilia has skyrocketed in price in the last few years. A basic US entrenching tool, for example, that used to be 25 bucks at a flea market, date coded, is now worth well over a hundred.
  14. propane forge pyrometer advice

    Hello Paul Allen. I use a K type pipe fitting style thermocouple that is made of Inconel with a mini connector. Then I use a thermocouple readout that will read a K type thermocouple. You can get the readout from a lot of different places, but it's not worth skimping on the thermocouple itself. The most recent ones I bought from MSC were from Thermo Electric. Omega Engineering is another good thermocouple source. I paid about $120 for two of them. As far as metal and following heat treat guidelines, I would say following the recipe is pretty important. If you don't want to invest in a Heat Treat oven, then I would do what you said you did before, either use Bos or Peters Heat Treating is supposed to be top notch.
  15. Question about Powder Metallurgy

    Hello Meridianfrost, The two distributors who I know of are Kelly Cupples who sells a bunch of different alloys and K&G who sell 1084 powder. Who they buy from, and what manufacturer made it I have no idea. I have not ordered from either of those retailers personally but I plan on buying some soon from Kelly, as he is regarded highly in the knifemaking community. My idea was to use 15n20 sheet to make a pattern and then fill the voids with 1084 powder, or take cut offs from other 1084/15n20 billets and pack them in 1084 powder. Kellys info can be found here as well as a old price list: As far as the best powder for blade performance, that will depend on the physical properties of the powder and how they react to what else you put in the tube. I would research each combination.