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About CMS3900

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/12/1983

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    Townsend, Delaware
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    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. Blue Moon Press has the book new for 45$
  2. The Kern book has a ton of good info in it. Well worth the purchase price. If you can upload a wider shot of the front of the hammer from the bottom die to the crank plate it would give a lot more to worth with. Also, the height of the top and bottom die and the length of the spring uncompressed.
  3. Forge length

    Hey Fish, After reading what your trying to this is my opinion. Your trying to do three things at once: Billets, HT, and normal forging. Each of these to be successful to a point need to be designed for the process. Billets: A vertical blown forge is king for this because you have less to worry about with flux destroying your forge as it drops harmlessly to the bottom which is usually filled with cat litter. Look at Bruce Bump, Jason Knight, ect.. and there using a vertical "Don Fogg" style forge. Some smiths like Ed Caffrey use a vertical that has a cast liner which is slower to heat but a lot more durable. There are two very reputable turn-key vertical setups out there around your $500 price range. PM me for links. Normal Forging: Several bladesmiths have told me for normal forging all you need is a forge big enough to stick the work in. You could forge in a vertical forge as well. Heat treating: If you only plan on using basic knife steels then a forge will do the job. Even a forge smaller than the blades length will work moving it back and forth. The coal forge with some techniques will allow you to use the same process to HT longer blades too. However; anything that requires a specific soak time at a specific temperature is very tricky to do without a oven. For further consideration, the cost of a large HT oven or forge vs. the times you will need it might not make sense at this point. It might be worth the dollars to send large pieces out to be HT, which would open you up to use more than basic knife steels. My suggestion would be get a good K type thermocouple (omega or similar), a long one that you could stick in your coal forge if need be, and a read out (amazon).
  4. It comes down, in my opinion, to the efficiency of the hammer and what the end user wants out of making their own. Regardless of what "end" LG hammers are on, there are other hammers out there (with the same rated weight) that move metal better or worse. So what keeps LG's from moving metal as well as some other hammer? Is it because they have a hollow anvil? They don't have a 20:1 anvil ratio? Or is it the actual hammer itself, allowing a LG to only impart so much energy into a work piece based off its efficiency of design? By your idea if I welded a 2000 lb block of steel onto a 100 lb LG it should work better than say, a 100lb Beaudry with it's stock 700lb (7:1) anvil? In reality they two have different designs and with all the anvil in the world both will hit the top of a curve where they are imparting the maximum force for their design. Once maximum force is known, you can scale the weight of the anvil to match the efficiency that is required, reducing manufacturing costs. Little Giant has their design, efficiency, and manufacturing cost and other makers have theirs. I forget where the whole 20:1 thing originally came up, I think it was in the Open Die Forging manual, and was further propagated by several power hammer manufactures as the golden standard. These numbers initially came from Closed Die Hammers, which can run up (and probably above) 50:1 ratios - because they do a different type of work and need to be more stable and efficient than open hammers. Many 2 piece hammers ran around 10:1, just look at Nazel literature and do the math. IIRC as well, the anvils on the Bradley's I have are hollow, and that's 2 piece. The leaf spring hammer like above has varying degrees of efficiency. It might not impart enough force to see any gains with a 10:1 anvil, but it will move hot metal easier than a hand hammer, and that might of been the OP's goal. Most importantly out of all this, MG-42 has the thing built, so why tell him to tear it down and "read up"? Would I have used a solid bar? Yes, if I had one heavier than the tube, otherwise I would of done what the OP did and learned something.
  5. No one builds the same size hollow anvil at home as commercially made hammers had, which is why most people say use solid. Look at the radius of the hollow "cone" that makes up the base of a little giant anvil for example, and then figure on the wall thickness. Most home made power hammers that I have seen might have a 6" or 8" piece of round bar as the anvil. 48" of 6" 1018 is 384 lbs rounded. A cone out of 1" plate that starts at the same 6" OD, and tapers outward to 24" OD, the same 48" tall is 609 lbs rounded. You would have to step up to 7.5" solid bar (7.5" C1018 @ 48") at 600 lbs rounded to get close to that. For comparison 1018 6.5" Diameter .75 wall tube 48" is 184lbs. FWIW, I would run it as is and see what happens. Overall it looks like a good example of this type of hammer. I look forward to the video.
  6. Laminated striking anvil

    Most striking anvils are made out of low carbon or alloy and have little or no rebound. C1018 or 4140 type stuff. Stacking the plates and just welding them on the outside should be more than sufficient. No need to try to bond them together like people try to do with homemade anvils that their looking to get rebound out of.
  7. Hello from New Jersey

    Welcome to the Forums! Another good tip is checking out ABANA and it's local affiliates. Your in a good place to be a part of several blacksmithing groups.
  8. Anatomy and a brief history of simple side blast forges

    That's a lot of good information. I am still in the process of designing a side blast and was wondering what book that last picture came out of?
  9. Forced air burners??

    It's similar-ish to the ones I use. The blower he uses is 75 CFM so I would think it would get a small forge to welding heat no problem. A improvement on this design would be either a speed control or placing the air gate after the blower instead of the sliding gate on the side. Your burner is only one part of forge efficiency, so without knowing the rest it's hard to judge.
  10. Ol' rusty build

    People usually use a piece of solid bar inside a pipe. Pipe in a Pipe would work if you filled it with something I suppose. A lot of these type of hammers I have seen have no UHMW or bushing material. They just stay well oiled and run steel on steel. The life expectancy of the hammer isn't long enough to worry about things wearing out. I wouldn't worry about a concrete pad under it for starters. If it's on a dirt floor drive a stake in around it to keep from moving and try it. Also, that is a good idea on the dies to make them bolt on. RR track dies are more of a drawing die and you will probably find in the future that flat dies are much more useful and want to swap them out as resources become available.
  11. Ford anvil

    Dunno about that particular anvil, but Ford did have massive foundries. The Ford River Rouge Complex was one of the largest and advanced foundries of its kind in the world when built.
  12. Haybudden found today

    Nice looking anvil!
  13. I dig the gold lettering Frosty. I do that on all my machines.
  14. Press info. needed

    Also - "Hydraulic Forging Press for the Blacksmith" by Randy McDaniel has some good info, but is more geared to what you can do with it. He has some videos on youtube too that will give you a idea of whats in the book.
  15. If it looks like what you have in the picture then it is a OBI, or Open-Backed, Inclined press. They can be used for many things such as punching, stamping, notching and hot or cold forming in closed or semi-closed die systems. However, when a press like this is used to form parts ALL of the math has been worked out by the engineers who designed the die; accounting for the tonnage of the press and the volume and strength of the material being formed. The press will break if it does not continue through the stroke, or the belt will slip if lucky. Usually the work envelope on these presses is small, so a spring or cushion system there generally will not fit. Scrapping the workings of it and converting it into a hydraulic press might work if the press was large enough to accommodate the stresses, but why tear apart a perfectly good useful machine to have in the workshop. If I had the chance to get small OBI press cheap I would jump on it. I passed a couple up a while back and regret it. If it really doesn't work for you, sell it and turn it into something else.