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About CMS3900

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    Senior Member

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    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. CMS3900

    Hydraulic punch press cylinder

    Thats's a really good cylinder if it is in good working order. Quick math at 3000 psi put's it around 88 ton. I would try to figure out what pressure the press ran at and then do the calculations on the amount of gallons per minute it will take to cycle at a speed you want. Some people have issues with short stroke rams in their press because they affix both sides in one position. you can mitigate the short stroke length by designing the press to have the non-ram side movable if you wanted.
  2. CMS3900

    Propane Regulator

    DWH, if your using a pine ridge, clearly you have invested some $$ in trying to build a quality forge. I would head to the local gas/welding supply and pick up a Harris 25 GX series regulator. Your correct that the regulator is not meant to be a shutoff. Using a needle valve in the force air or blown system is basically like using a orifice in a blown system, your creating a blockage to flow so that you can adjust your PSI up to compensate, allowing it to register better on the regulator, but final flow is the same. If the forge runs at say 2250 degrees with the needle valve half closed and the reg at 10 psi, and 2250 degrees with the needle valve open and the reg at 5 psi it's flowing the same amount of propane into the forge, your just creating more back pressure on the reg with the needle valve. In my system, a standard single nozzle blown forge, I have no orifice or needle valve, and just use the reg and my air gate to adjust temp. Sometimes I bring the regulator down as low as I can to reach the temp zone I want, so having a reg that goes to near 0 for me is a good thing.
  3. CMS3900

    Mirror finish help needed

    When I was crazy and wanted mirror finishes, I used the belts DuEulear was talking about. Norton NORax, down to x5, which is around 4000 grit, then buffed them. Like Buzzkill says it's hard to get the scratches from each previous belt totally gone. Other tips; keep the work area super clean. When you step to another belt, put it in a bag or somewhere where grit and debris are not going to get on it, and air chuck the grinder and your area. One small piece of grit from a previous belt or dirt could have you going back and working through the grits again. I think with the right application of elbow grease you could skip the buffer and do the final polish by hand.
  4. CMS3900

    Results of first week of making

    They don't look bad for first knives. As experience is gained things will improve. My suggestion would be this, forge your blades to shape and normalize and anneal the metal. Then, to take the file comments from above one step further, build yourself an Aaron Gough style bevel jig and make or buy a file guide. Use whatever grinding apparatus you have and rough the blades to shape then use the file guide and the bevel jig to finish the bevels. This will let you learn and visualize blade geometry and get cleaner "grinds". When you move back to a grinder, the file guide helps a lot; and armed with the knowledge from the bevel jig you know how to achieve what you want. For the middle one, a piece of antler I think would look good.
  5. CMS3900

    Heat Treating a Frizzen

    Your idea to use 1095 will work. Some guys take and forge weld a piece of high carbon onto wrought for the frizzen. I would check out the american longrifle forums as I know there are a few topics on this subject. Cranky much Steve?
  6. CMS3900

    Hello From Delaware

    Hey Two Ravens, Good to see another Delawarian on here, I am in Townsend "below the canal". We have a pretty awesome community in our area. I don't have a lot of time to post right now (3 month old little one myself) but I'll try to PM some info your way tomorrow about local people, groups, events, places to find materials ect.. if you're interested. -Morgan
  7. CMS3900

    Tuyere size question

    lol steve. Not everyone is going to run MC on their forge. McCartney, a place to start would be to figure out what CFM your current blower is, which would give you a idea on how much air you need.
  8. CMS3900

    cello bending iron

    How about we ask the OP to clarify, since he has only responded once to the original post. Do you have any previous casting experience? What exactly is the refractory being used ie - the brand name. Standard concrete mixes trap moisture inside and when heated evaporate the moisture which then cannot escape, causing it to spall or explode. If you post your location in your profile someone might be able to give you some local sources or places to get help or instruction on a project like this. Casting seems to be a taboo subject on IFI because the danger is real and high, to life and property. Searching and reading the past casting threads is helpful. Also there are casting specific forums on the web that might give you additional knowledge on the subject.
  9. CMS3900

    Navy Hammer sell off

    I have seen Matt Harris's Niles Bement-Pond 750 run, and it has been converted to air. He uses 1,000 gallon propane tanks for the cushion tank and a large engine driven compressor, like 750 CFM. He acquired a large 3 phase rotary screw compressor in the 40 HP range and plans to convert over to it. These hammers work hard, and it comes down to how many points of maintenance and failure you want to deal with. While a boiler is great, and can double for steaming crabs and clams, it's a whole other bag of worms. If your boiler goes down in the middle of the job you've got issues. If your compressor goes out you call a equipment rental company and have them drop one off.
  10. Having stuff inside helps a ton, but I am a strong proponent of anything that makes you look harder to burgle. Cameras, exterior lighting, and a real alarm system where someone calls the police. You want to try to convince them not to do it in the first place. A lot of people forget in the trades that once someone does get into your shop, all the tools are there to defeat whatever low tech "security" you have in place. How many folks have a grinder, cutting torch, or bolt cutters in plain sight in their shop? At that point, if an alarm company isn't calling the cops, or you are not recording them, they have all the time in the world. Also, make sure there are no "tools" easily accessible outside to help a would-be burglar. Whenever you talk about theft, I think of the flip side which is insurance. With the rise of the home hobby blacksmith and the parallel increase in anvil and tool value, I wonder how many home smiths have spoken with their homeowners insurance people about a rider to cover the theft of those items. Most of the time I see posts to the contrary about people afraid to call them in the case they're told a forge is a no-go under their policy.
  11. CMS3900

    Maximum stroke length

    1. The cylinder doesn't have to fully retract each time you want to stop applying power. It's really dependent on how you plumb the system. 2. The simplest way to plumb it so it won't have to retract all the way is to use a regular hydraulic valve. You pull the lever, it comes down (or up if the cylinders on the bottom), squish, and then pull the lever till it's backed off enough to move the part and then repeat. There are other ways with limit switches ect.. to set the retraction height as well but that gets into more money. 3. Having a longer cylinder is a advantage over many presses, not a disadvantage. You can keep more of the rod inside the cylinder which makes the rod less likely to bend or flex during side loading, which can occur depending on your press design or where on the dies you are pressing. I think my cylinders are 24" long, and I plan on making my "press zone" about half of that, so half of the rod will always remain in the cylinder. 4. Consider that you want your work at a comfortable height, and design the press to accommodate it. Check out Randy McDaniels Press on youtube, and if you can get your hands on his book it goes over a lot of the basics. Also, look at a bunch of presses and find a good interchangeable die system you can fabricate.
  12. CMS3900

    About to start my smiting adventure

    Since I am in DE, I've never been to one, but hear it's a good time. The shop is fully equipped. Bring what ever tools you prefer and your project, but there are tongs and hammers and tools there to use. I think there's 5? coal forges in there. Each station has a anvil and a post vise. If it's something your interested in go on their website and reach out to the President, Ted McNett and he can point you in the right direction. The cost of dues is paltry compared to the experience earned and cool people you will meet. They usually have blacksmith coal for sale at meetings but check with Ted on that.
  13. CMS3900

    About to start my smiting adventure

    Blacksmith Guild of Central MD. There based out of the Carrol County Farm Museum. I am a member, and their Blacksmith Days in May is a excellent event. Even if you prefer the school of hard knocks, just having some people to call or come over when you get in a jam helps. The tailgating at events is a plus too. They also have open forge nights. For small batch charcoal the easiest is just get a fire pit near your forge and build a fire. When you have a nice bed of coals transfer it to the forge and add more wood to the fire.
  14. CMS3900

    About to start my smiting adventure

    Hey Beaumont, welcome to the forums. There are a bunch of good blacksmithing groups in MD. Where in MD are you?
  15. CMS3900

    How do I keep a fuller straight?

    I don't know of anywhere to buy one off hand. Most are in-house made and a lot of the ones I have seen use a carbide tipped lathe bit for the cutter, profiled to what kind of fuller your looking for.