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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Chrispy

  1. Phosphoric Acid, manganese oxide and iron filings will turn most iron / steel Black. You will need to research "Parkerising" and follow it to a tee. I have no idea what effect it will have on the contrast metals you choose. The layer is on microns thick and can be sanded off. Typically it looks like the black tools you used to see or old English motor cycle parts. it invoves heating acid so make sure you don't do it on the kitchen stove and take all precautions. Phosphoric acid is food grade but dangerous in these proportions.
  2. Absolutely love it and the frame too. We don't see too many old wagon wheels that haven't already been utilized in landscaped gardens in Oz. Most wagon wheels are true Wrought Iron.
  3. Great work Chuck. simple yet so elegant. Just a Tip for those interested in making fire grates. The gaps between the bars on the base should be only just wide enough to allow small embers and ash to drop through. If large embers can drop through the heat is sufficient to sag the metal which will eventually foul up on the ash tray. Smaller fires is also preferable.
  4. I was always taught that the best way to test for the correct amount of air into a forge was to drop a ping pong ball just above the tuyere and it should just hover above it about 100 mm or 4 inches. Too much air and it flies off and too little and it drops down. This test is done with forge emptied of any fuel. Coke in my case. I have a fan blower which is controlled with a speed controller which I turn back between each heat to conserve fuel and crank up higher when extra heat is required. The ping pong test really only enables you to get the optimum lighting discharge of air. The rest will come with experience and the task at hand.
  5. Definitely a clamp to hold a vulcanised repair patch to a punctured inner tube. You would clamp the metal patch housing onto the tube then ignite a phosperous section on the heat source in the metal cap. This ignites and smoulders, generating enough heat to adhere the patch to the tube. Have used them in my youth on push bike and car tyres. Back in the 1960 - 70's.
  6. I cut the top of an aluminium oxygen bottle and used it as a slack tub / quench bucket and never had Mozzie problems for years. However it was a bit on the small side and there was no way you could plunge your foot into it in the event of dropping a chunk on hot metal into your boot. I recently acquired a half wine barrel (hogs head) that measures up well for a slack tub. At the end of the day I put about a table spoon full of Kerosene in to prevent mozzies breeding as it is lighter than the water and creates a thin barrier on the water surface. It will eventually soaks into the wooden barrel, evaporates or coats the surface of my iron and need continual replacement. Wait - before you start saying I'm crazy putting flamable liquids in my slack tub, be mindful its in quantities that don't seem to have a flash point. Like BackWoodsPuppy's barrel - it still reeks of wine.
  7. I'm not that old but have never seen a wooden floor in a blacksmith shop. I can visualise the exposed ends on blocks of wood sticking up that I way in an old butcher shop amid the sawdust covering.I recall them being quite slippery. I imagine there would be a bit of a fire risk. Did anyone see where that hot rivet went?
  8. Thanks John, I might end up taking your advice and give Crash Supplies just down the road a call. I know they charge about AU $50/litre for 2 pack paint plus $27.50 to do a colour match, A cost I can't sling onto the customer at this late stage. However for now I will wait and see if I get some a few more tips from the others. That might saye a buck or two. Cheers Chris.
  9. Aaron, Sounds like a "Record 360 Pipe Threader" is the sort of thing you are after. Do a search on the net and include the words twister. There is something there that I read about 12 mths ago. The site showed a pair of modified stilsons for the vice end but pretty crude. I ended up getting a second hand commercial twister for AU $400. Its a ruduction gear on a 5 hp electric motor .It works great, I have jigs that go from 3/8" progressively to 1 1/4". Used the 32 mm jig last week on solid steel(cold) did 4 turns easily. Tore through on a piece a foot long but ok for 4 turns over a metre. Key thing to keep your twists straight is the accuracy of the centres at each end. Out a fraction and it will produce spirals over the twisted length. Chris
  10. John, Is there more than one pewter colour. Dull lifeless grey, a bit shinier than oxidized lead. Almost the colour of lead that has had a shave hook dragged across it. It is to match a similar one tier Candelabra that the customer already has. Yeah I agree these people who want to change the colour of wrought iron need to have their mouths washed out with soap!
  11. Glen, Never tried to make one but there is a pattern of the Condamine Bell on the net. Condamine up your way is famous for the Condamine cow bell. I have no idea how to tune it. I suggest making up a cardboard pattern to get the size you require. The measurements on this template are only a guide to give perspective - thay are not actual size. I think there is no problem making the Condamine Bell but they have strict rules about calling it a "Condamine Bell". Hope this helps. Chris.
  12. Hi all, Have any of you valued blacksmiths out there got ang tricks to get wrought iron to display a pewter coloured finish. I have buffed a candelabra back to almost bare metal and applied clear lacquer but it is not quite pewter. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Chris.
  13. Incredible work - the best I have ever seen. So sad that the scrap yards are sending out their crushers to the farms. It happens around rural Sth Australia as well. And scrap yards are getting harder to get into. How do you remember where in the couple of acres that you saw that particular part you require or recall if you know you have it but can't think if you have used it already. Your work makes mine look like thoughtless crap.
  14. Michael, Excellent ideas you have for your artwork and on such a large scale. - Oh the joys of a large workshop and big hammers. Keep it up.
  15. Good move - no point killing yourself with toxic Galv fumes. Great bowl though - interesting patten created by the Reo.
  16. Excellent to say the least. I wish I had your patience!
  17. Great texture on the roses, The bells and openers are really good too. keep up the good work Matto
  18. "No business is better than Bad business" Some words I'll always remember of sound business advice from an old trusted friend.
  19. Chrispy

    corrigin museums anvil.

    Good to see you have your Chineese safety boots on! :blink:
  20. Thanks for the info. "neato" The entire collection is fantastic. It's a credit to you. :)
  21. Brilliant! stunning work Rory May
  22. Great tooling and idea Spears. It's ever greater to see that the forum works well. Interesting and helpful suggestions for all concerned. Brilliant ideas. Thanks.
  23. I agree with Bad Creeks comments. It looks like a wizard to me. A very practical little hook too. Good work.
  24. Thats a rather different rose. It looks great and would make an excellent gift although better if someone buys it . Would you care to explain jump welding and how you achieve it. I'd be most interested and I'm sure others would too.
  25. I love the design, especially the candy shapes. How did you go about making the scroll patterns on the candy? Did you make a scroll from round spring steel and just top fuller it in? Great work Thanks for sharing.
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