Chrispy

More than keen to introduce you to my shop. Call me on 08 83326790 or 0419 500 882 to tee up a time. I'm in Magill just up the top of The Parade. Cheers, Chrispy.:)

good work, keep at it - your nearly there!

theycallmefix, Old worthless lathes with a few minor modifications make excellent cold twisting machines. fit up with a 4 jaw chuck and modify the tail stock to accomodate 1 of several stock size holders that allow your stock to pass through the tail stock and twist away to your hearts content. You will find it more accurate to rotate the chuck by hand as unbraked motors tend to run on.

Manothewoods, Welding clean metal is easier but is not essential if you are just knocking up a non structural forge or framework. However in saying, traces of slag deposits from previous welds can be a curse if trying to fill holes etc. it acts like a volcano and keeps spewing out leaving the same hole your trying to fix. Use a scribe to remove the deposit and your well on your way. but less time cleaning up the steel initially unless its loose crusty rust which will result in crappy and weak welds.

Manothewoods, The answer to your problem is simple. "Get rid of the magnetic Welding Clamps". They are pulling the liquid metal (molten weld) away from the joint. I am a reasonable welder and I have experienced the same problem some years back. Try holding them or clamping them into position with a G clamp or locking pliers and tack weld the ends and a few spots in between if it is to be a long weld. Remove your clamps and start welding as you normally do. Looking at the pictures it's hard to be exact but the travel speed looks to be a little fast. Start away from yourself and work towards yourself not dragging the electrode but letting it collapse with heat naturally. Once you have established the correct speed on a scrap piece, then start with your weaving motion to widen the fillet and stitch the 2 pieces together. Also lay the material on it's back as it is much easier to weld horizontal. If you can't do that Vertical Up welds are the go but you have to travel much quicker and watch out for the molten slag blobs getting in your boots. Good luck. ps Welding magnets are good for holding up your paper plans to the side of your tin shed or metal door.

Rune, It is also as quiet as a church mouse.

Rune, I have an electric fan on my forge . It is a brush type motor from an old hand drier (the type found in toilets to dry your hands after washing them). Electric brush motors can be speed controlled with a simple speed controller that I made up in kit form from Tandys or Dick Smiths ( electronic shops) for around $30. Gives a good variable range of speeds from a slight trickle to a full blast which holds a ping pong ball hovering over the tuyere. I can't fault it and I picked it up in a scrap yard for free. It came complete with the squirrel cage as well.

Dennis, I was sure I read somewhere on this blog that someone had used it and I searched everywhere through my history and after hours of rechecking I found that it was you (in your Demo Thingy). I have heard that Fluid film needs needs to be reapplied on a regular basis and that it never really dries. Great on tools but needs reapplying after handling. Do a search on the net for parkerising (Parkerizing) sp. It will give a flat to satin black finish. It soaks up oil and will last around 15 years with heavy handling. It is a finish often used on hand guns etc but does involve boiling Phosphoric acid.