moya034

FYI, there is a difference between Flux core and innershield wire. They both have a "flux" on the inside. Flux core is meant to be used with a shielding gas. Innershield wire does not use a gas cylinder and creates it own shielding gasses similar to how stick welding flux does.

Also, make sure the regulator screw is backed out completely, and open the cylinder valve SLOWLY.

Miller is just about to come out with a new model, the Millermatic 211 with auto set. It seems like quite the machine, it works on both 110v and 220v circuits and is spool gun ready (which means you can get the accessories needed for welding aluminum.) In any event, I highly encourage you to try and get a good 220v circuit ran. The most important tool any welder has is good electricity. Even if you have to spend a few hundred dollars on an electrician, it's well worth it in the long run.

You didn't say what size/type electrodes you plan on using so it I don't know the current ranges you need. That being said, it sounds like alot. Chances are when working on stock that big, you'll probably want to also be able to do carbon arc cutting and gouging which also uses lots of current. When you get into the world of high current, high duty cycle machines, many of them only run on 3 phase or gasoline/diesel/propane. If this machine is going to be used very regularly, running it off of electricity is going to be much cheaper then fuel in the long run. Also, don't forget to consider that the engine needs regular maintenance. You will probably want a phase converter. However, it's hard to say if it can handle your needs. First, you need to decide exactly how many amps/duty cycle you need, pick out a machine, look at it's power requirements, then shop around for a phase converter that can fill those needs. Now, I'm not sure what you mean by not having "reliable" electrics. I see you are in China, so if the light doesn't always turn on when you flip the switch, going with gas/diesel/propane might be the better option in those circumstances. If you give me some more specifics, I'll be happy to recommend some welding machine models that should suit your needs.

If I were you, I'd also consider going back to the school and asking your instructor for ideas on where to work. Welding instructors tend to know many people and most of the businesses in their area.

I don't know what your area is like specifically. But there's a few questions to ask yourself. Do you have any profesional welding experience? And, more importantly, can you pass a weld test with TIG? The type of weld test you get will depend on what the company does. They may have you weld different materials in different configurations in different positions. Your test coupons may or may not be subjected to bend testing, etc. Can you do aluminum and stainless steel? Most shops that use TIG all day are working on these materials. Another question is, are you comfortable with doing other welding processes besides TIG? Depending on what the shop you work at does, they may or may not expect you to be skilled with different processes. Some places you'll be doing a little bit of everything, other places you'll be welding the same thing day in and day out all day long. Structural isn't done with TIG, so you're looking at repair, certain types of pipe welding, ornamental/art, but you are most likely looking at manufacturing. You can start by looking at places that manufacture items/parts for the following industries: Automotive Aerospace Food/Dairy Stage/Theatrical Medical You may also consider consulting your state's department of labor for ideas. Good luck.

For a good guide check out this: BackyardMetalcasting If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

What size material, and what size/type electrodes are using?

Miller and Hobart are owned by the same company. The current models of the Miller thunderbolt and the Hobart stickmate are the same exact machine with different color paint. You can get a Hobart stickmate from tractor supply for $469, which is a pretty good deal for a new machine. Tractor Supply Company - 235 V AC/160 V DC Stick Welder You can work with an AC only stick welder, but I highly recommend an AC/DC unit. DC arc is much smoother and nicer to work with, and also gives you a much greater selection of electrodes you can use.

I'd say just about anything except for plastic. Plasma cutting creates very little heat in the workpiece so you could even use a good hardwood or plywood. Edit, Just make sure the wood is on the topside of the work where sparks and waste material/slag won't get to it.

It's also worth noting there is a difference between brazing, and braze welding. Both brazing and braze welding use alloys that melt above 800F (or 840, forget which). Anything that melts below this temp is considered solder. The difference is that brazing, like solder, uses capillary action to deposit the filler metal. This requires that the joint have a very tight fit up, and sufficient surface area for the alloy to flow. The alloy for this process usually comes in a coil or spool, similar to solder. (It's worth noting that what most people incorrectly call "silver solder" is actually silver brazing, because of the temps involved. True silver solder is a lower temp alloy typically used for electronic parts.) Braze welding does not use capillary action. It deposits the alloy into a bead much like typical fusion welding, except you aren't melting the base metal. The alloys for braze welding usually come in a straight rod form. This is what you are looking for. Check out this link: http://www.esabna.com/euweb/oxy_handbook/589oxy2_1.htm It talks about how to properly set up and adjust an oxy-fuel rig and also talks about braze welding, in addition to fusion welding and oxygen cutting. It's a very good resource. You will have to refer to the data sheets from your equipment's manufacturer for the correct pressures for a given tip size.

I'm not sure if you are referring to fuel gas or shielding gas. Brazing is usually done with a torch. Oxy-fuel of some sort, propane or acetylene will work. You'll need to use a flux too.

By braise, you mean to sear the workpiece, then cook it slowly in a liquid? Oh, you must mean brazing! :D

The forced air welding helmets are certainly nice, especially if you weld for a living, however, a 3M 6000 series half face piece respirator equipped with NIOSH P100 filters will do the job for less then $20. Either way, you still want some sort of ventilation system in the garage so the fumes don't go in the house.

Helmets that have a solar cell still use a battery, which is usually permanently installed and not replacable. The solar panel is used to recharge the battery.

I'm pleased with how that turned out. WOW! Whoever welded that square tubing into the wheel rim must have been a real professional. Filling in a 1/4" gap between the tubing and rim is not for the faint of the heart! O wait, that was me. :cool:

I would recommend instead of goggles, getting a shade #5 face shield. This will give you better visibility since you're not limited to a small window. Fibre-metal makes good shields and head gear at reasonable prices. You can find fibre-metal products online, or your Local welding shop can probably order it for you. Be careful, there is a difference between a tinted green face shield and a true shade #5 face shield. Also, don't forget to wear saftey glasses under the shield. Edit: Headgear: http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=5435 Shade 5 shield: http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=5428&WT.svl=5428

I'm currently a welding student and weld for about 30 hours a week at school. There is ventilation in my booth, but it's not enough in my opinion. I came to this conclusion the day I blew black stuff out of my nose after going home. I immediately did some research and purchased a welding respirator. Haven't had a problem since. When I first started wearing the respirator, I had a conversation with a fellow student and he said "If you are so worried about fumes that you want to wear a mask every day, you are in the wrong business." I didn't feel like getting into an argument, but I wanted to tell him "If you are that cavalier about your health and saftey, perhaps YOU are in the wrong business." Even if you have a respirator, you still want some sort of ventilation as filter type respirators are only good for up to 10 times the PEL (Permissible exposure limit). I wear a 3M 6300 series half face piece respirator with NIOSH P100 filters (also made by 3M). Those filters are good for particulates, heavy metal fumes, etc. This setup fits perfectly under a welding hood with no obstruction. When you get your respirator, you will have to shave to get a proper seal, and also read the instructions. You have to understand what it can and can't be used for, how to clean it, when to replace the filters, what the filters are good for, etc. 3M does provide technical support for their products in case you have any specific questions.

I've been told oxy-propane is cheaper then oxy-acetylene. I've also been told oxy-propane uses more oxygen then oxy-acetylene, however the cost in fuel gas savings more then makes up for the extra oxygen used. That all being said, I've never ran the numbers so I don't know know for myself. I do know that I use oxy-propane at welding school for oxygen cutting and it works very nicely. Some oxy-propane hoses and tips are on my list of stuff to buy, since I keep alot of propane around my garage anyway.

Like maddog said, you gotta practice. While there is a vast amount of technical knowledge that will you make a better weldor, it's still a manual skill. Running beads across a plate may seem boring but it's the only way to get good. If you have the time and money, I'll strongly suggest looking into some welding classes. You can become a fine weldor being self taught, however a good instructor can reduce the time of the learning curve by many orders of magnitude. Having someone who is very qualified watching you to tell you what you are doing wrong and give you tips and tricks is very invaluable. If you take any classes, be sure to tell the instructor you're not there to get a welding job, but be a hobby weldor. He may be able to tailor some course work more to what you are interested in rather then what you need to know to work in industry. There is alot of great welding info here on these forums, but I'll also suggest checking out the forums at the manufacturer's websites. Weld Talk Message Boards - Powered by vBulletin Miller Welding Discussion Forums - Powered by vBulletin

All the electrodes you have are designed for mild steel, and are covered under the AWS (American Welding Society) Classification A5.1. The first 2 digits indicate the tensile strength of the filler metal in thousands of PSI. So for example 6013 has a strength of 60,000 PSI. The 3rd digit indicates the position the electrode can be used. "1" can be used in all positions. "2" can only be used in the flat and horizontal positions. "4" is used for the DOWNHILL vertical position. So in the 6013 example the 1 indicates you can use that rod to weld any position. The last digit indicates the type of flux coating. This changes the properties of how the electrode preforms, and also whether it used with AC, DCEP, or DCEN. In the 6013 example the 3 indicates the flux coating is made of Titania potassium and can be used with all 3 current types. It provides shallow penetration, and is good for thin metals or making a pretty cap on a multiple pass weld. Check out these links for more info: Everything you wanted to know about Arc Welding saftey: http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/e205.pdf http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/safety/quick_eng_200704.pdf The Garage Guy's Guide To Welding: Welding Safely in the Home Shop How to stick weld: http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf Aussie Weld Introduction to Arc Welding http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c2410.pdf Electrode Selection: Stuck on SMAW?: Easy answers to 8 common electrode questions http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c210.pdf http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c610.pdf Handbook - Covered Electrodes More really good info on both SMAW and electrodes: Arc Welding Lesson 1 - Basics of Arc Welding ESAB University Welding Machine and Consumables Manufactures Lincoln: Lincoln Electric Hobart: Hobart Welders Miller: Miller - Welding Equipment - MIG/TIG/Stick Welders & Plasma Cutting Now as far as cast iron goes... it is weldable, but is difficult to do. Even professional weldors have mixed results with it. All I can tell you is that AWS classification A5.15 has the specs for cast iron electrodes. If you want to repair something, I suggest practicing on some scrap pieces first, and doing a good amount of research as well.

Good job buddy!

I'm not but I have a friend who is. (He is not a metalworker so I doubt you'll be talking shop with him.) You should bring a portable smithy setup with you and do live demonstrations! They like things that involve fire there.

Well, I'm asking, if I make my forge 12" long on the inside, about what diameter it should be, and what size openings on the door I should use for that size.

The forge itself will be made so I can put in a variety of burners and use nat gas, propane, or oil, whatever I feel like at the time. I already use used motor oil for my crucible furnace. If you are curious, here is my burner design. The one I use for a forge would be smaller and made of 3/4" pipe probably. My burner will burn veggie oil too, or any non-volatile liquid fuel for that matter. click here for moya034's waste oil burner As far as the forge itself goes, I'm thinking of making it with 2 doors now for added flexibility. Question: Assuming a forge with an inside of 12"x4", how big would the vents on each door need to be?