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Elektrode codes???


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All the electrodes you have are designed for mild steel, and are covered under the AWS (American Welding Society) Classification A5.1.

The first 2 digits indicate the tensile strength of the filler metal in thousands of PSI. So for example 6013 has a strength of 60,000 PSI.

The 3rd digit indicates the position the electrode can be used.
"1" can be used in all positions.
"2" can only be used in the flat and horizontal positions.
"4" is used for the DOWNHILL vertical position.

So in the 6013 example the 1 indicates you can use that rod to weld any position.

The last digit indicates the type of flux coating. This changes the properties of how the electrode preforms, and also whether it used with AC, DCEP, or DCEN. In the 6013 example the 3 indicates the flux coating is made of Titania potassium and can be used with all 3 current types. It provides shallow penetration, and is good for thin metals or making a pretty cap on a multiple pass weld.

Check out these links for more info:
Everything you wanted to know about Arc Welding saftey:
The Garage Guy's Guide To Welding: Welding Safely in the Home Shop

How to stick weld:
Aussie Weld Introduction to Arc Welding

Electrode Selection:
Stuck on SMAW?: Easy answers to 8 common electrode questions
Handbook - Covered Electrodes

More really good info on both SMAW and electrodes:
Arc Welding
Lesson 1 - Basics of Arc Welding
ESAB University

Welding Machine and Consumables Manufactures
Lincoln: Lincoln Electric
Hobart: Hobart Welders
Miller: Miller - Welding Equipment - MIG/TIG/Stick Welders & Plasma Cutting

Now as far as cast iron goes... it is weldable, but is difficult to do. Even professional weldors have mixed results with it. All I can tell you is that AWS classification A5.15 has the specs for cast iron electrodes. If you want to repair something, I suggest practicing on some scrap pieces first, and doing a good amount of research as well.

Edited by moya034
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By the way you may not want to try welding that firepot..most do not come out well and crack away from the weld.I know there are folks that do that well and make them last forever. If it was mine i would put a plate across the crack and another underneath and bolt through all three pieces. Lots of forges have been repaired this way.

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If there is such chance it can go wrong i ‘m not going to weld the firepot.
The forge works very well with the cracks so i’m going to leave them in. I have the forge for 3 years now and the cracks haven’t grown. Sometimes clinker sticks to the cracks but that’s not a big problem.
I tired to attach some pics i hope u can see them.
Thanks a lot for all the advice.



Edited by FTK
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