stixman55 Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 :o Looks like I thought I was going to weld Wrought Iron... but a few of you more learned ones feel that what I'm trying to do is weld CHEAP CHINEESE PIG IRON. Well, I think thats what I am trying to do as well. SOooooo... the question now stands like this... I've got a Lincoln 180 Mig welder and I ( that is...the wife) wanna do a project with the stuff. It's about 1/4 inch thick (where I will do the weld). Any suggestions here. Dont really wanna tap and die here 'cause it's going to be part of a coffee table. Would it be better to braze it? HELP! I aint really stupid.. I just don't know any better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainsFire Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 pictures? that would be helpful for identification of the material.. Pig iron technically is the base metal, before remelting into a metal used for something.. so Pig iron can be refined into either "cheap chinese cast iron", steel, or a range inbetween.. so you've probably just got some cast iron.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stixman55 Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 Okee-Dokeee, here is a pic of the un-named metal. Take a gander and pour you vast knowlage into my very greatfull coconut (otherwise known as my brain) 'Cause I really wanna get this project right for the wife. The rewards could cause me to grin during the day.. he he he Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Looks like Chinese cast iron. What's the problem with bolting it together? Cast iron usually bolts together OK. Heck it even taps OK too. Brazing works but I have found it to be a lot of work and then there is a chance of it cracking as it cools.:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 JB-Weld as an alternative suggestion?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stixman55 Posted November 26, 2008 Author Share Posted November 26, 2008 Its for a furniture project, don't think the JB will cut it. Anyway... I'm going to be brave and give it a shot. Not sure exactly what I'll try first but I'll hit the garage tommorrow and see what I will see. I will let you boys know what the heck happens and what (if anything) works. Maybe someone out there will throw me a line before then. :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quenchcrack Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 I am not a welder but........nickel rod works on cast iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 This is just ornament it will not be structural for furniture! If it's just ornament then how it's fastened on should be rather moot---collar it with copper heavy grounding wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 I already posted this on the other page: Just braze it. You'll save yourself a big hassle in the long run and as long as you know how to braze properly, it's strong enough to hold for furniture.... Unless your as big as I am! -Hillbilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy ebbers Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 Braze away!, at least that iz what I would do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 I would braise it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stixman55 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 THanks for the brazing solution .. I was leaning that way myself. Now to clarify for some of you who think that this "FURNITURE" project will hold a lot of weight... NO! It's for a coffee table. There will be wodden legs... the iron is ornimantal only. It will skirt around the legs. I'll show you all how it comes out when I finnish. Bought my 1st victor torch today and will get the tanks next week. Now all I got to do is learn how to braze. so if anyone can give me some good tips.. I'm all ears. I'm reading up on it as we speak. Anyway this will be a great way to learn. And again.. THANKS to all for your intrest and advice!:D:D:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moya034 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 I would braise it too. By braise, you mean to sear the workpiece, then cook it slowly in a liquid? Oh, you must mean brazing! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 By braise, you mean to sear the workpiece, then cook it slowly in a liquid? Oh, you must mean brazing! Why is it that there always has to be some commedian that has to nit pick the typing. If you look at the keyboard you can see that the z and s are in very close proximity. One word of advice, I don't know what your day job is, but keep it you will never make it as a commedian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stixman55 Posted November 29, 2008 Author Share Posted November 29, 2008 NICE comeback Woody! Say, If I were to BRAZE the pig iron with the suggested nickle, what gas would I use? Anyone know? Been looking at web sites and have gotten a lot of info but I need to find out what gas 'cause the sites I'm looking at are a bit obscure on the subject.:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moya034 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 If I were to BRAZE the pig iron with the suggested nickle, what gas would I use? I'm not sure if you are referring to fuel gas or shielding gas. Brazing is usually done with a torch. Oxy-fuel of some sort, propane or acetylene will work. You'll need to use a flux too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mills Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 Stixman you are very motivated. take a breath because there is a bunch of stuff you are trying to learn in one gulp. Brazing is done with a welding tip. not a cutting attachment. you will need then actylene and oxygen to make it sparkle. the information for setting the regulators should come with the torch. You will need to practice a little I'd imagine. Which will bring out some more questions. Ask away. When you get some fuel gasses pick up some BRAZING rod. it will be brass. Also get Brazing flux. The nickel rod mentioned by QC is for WELDING. There is a difference. This is basic general info to get you started. There are nuances and exceptions for all the advice given. Stick with brazing since that is where you are headed. It will be a good thing to learn, many applications. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moya034 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 (edited) It's also worth noting there is a difference between brazing, and braze welding. Both brazing and braze welding use alloys that melt above 800F (or 840, forget which). Anything that melts below this temp is considered solder. The difference is that brazing, like solder, uses capillary action to deposit the filler metal. This requires that the joint have a very tight fit up, and sufficient surface area for the alloy to flow. The alloy for this process usually comes in a coil or spool, similar to solder. (It's worth noting that what most people incorrectly call "silver solder" is actually silver brazing, because of the temps involved. True silver solder is a lower temp alloy typically used for electronic parts.) Braze welding does not use capillary action. It deposits the alloy into a bead much like typical fusion welding, except you aren't melting the base metal. The alloys for braze welding usually come in a straight rod form. This is what you are looking for. Check out this link: http://www.esabna.com/euweb/oxy_handbook/589oxy2_1.htm It talks about how to properly set up and adjust an oxy-fuel rig and also talks about braze welding, in addition to fusion welding and oxygen cutting. It's a very good resource. You will have to refer to the data sheets from your equipment's manufacturer for the correct pressures for a given tip size. Edited November 29, 2008 by moya034 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stixman55 Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 Yes stixman is motovated! I went to Oxygen acetylene short videos and seen what I need to know. There are a lot of short clips that are very instructional. This guy is really good. I bought my VICTOR medium duty torch with a cutting head, 3 torches and a rosebud. Has the built in back flash arrestors.. you know... the whole 9's.Paid $339 for the kit. Got a deal on tanks too and I'm getting them on Tuesday. Oxy and ace both for only $300. There a year old and the guy never even filled them. You should check the videos out there on the link above... there really worth seeing. And as allways.... YOU GUYS ARE GREAT! I know I came to the right place when I loged on here and you guys have proven it every time I log in. THANKS AGAIN!:D:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stixman55 Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 Well, I have finally gotten the ornimintal pig iron project under way. After watching the videos that George Goehl has out brazing techniques for metal sculpture using the oxygen acetylene torch I seen how easy it really is. I got some 3/32 fluxed brazing rod and away I went. I'm about 1/2 way done with the project and will have it complete (if all goes well) by the end of this week-end. George really makes it easy to understand, the hard part was laying out all them PESOS for the tanks,torch,hoses...etc...etc... But after the pain wore off from going into my sneak account (the one the wife don't know about) I found myself having the time of my life. My first attempt wasnt too bad but that was all practice before I really got started. The welds are pretty strong. I droped one of the pieces after I completed it and the weld held better than the factory portion; the pig iron broke on one of them curley q things and I had to repair that myself, but like But like I said... My weld didnt even as much as get out of square. Pictures are comming soon! :D :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 nickle 44 rod is great stuff preheat and postheat 250 to350 if this does not take brass rod and flux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stixman55 Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Thanks For the nickle idea, what I've done works but I think I am gonna try your idea on the next project. The wife wants to make a second coffee table like this one (similar not identical) when this one is complete. I want to see what else works.:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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