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I Forge Iron


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About hill.josh

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  • Location
    Johns Creek, GA
  • Biography
    I was born... then I grew up. Thats about it
  • Interests
    basketball and metalwork
  1. Could you upload the picture to iforgeiron?
  2. Which part of the flowers would you be trying to make thinner?
  3. hill.josh

    Forge info

    I really like the idea and wanna know how this works out. Out of curiosity though.. the crucible is relatively shallow compared to pieces of stock, so it seems like only the ends could be heated unless there was a hole in it.. which would be dumping the CO2 out. Not trying to put the idea down, just wondering about how thats suposed to work.
  4. You know that guys name Sweany? I thought about that but aren't there welding rods that are also hard.. I mean I'm not an expert or anything but I'd guess that there were some? If one was to forge weld it on tho, what type of joint would you suggest?
  5. Had this idea just come out of nowhere but wanted to know if anyone had ever tried forging a knife out of mild steel then hardfacing it with welding rod and grinding down and heat treating.. I know that its somewhat unconventional but I've always heard that knives with a soft core are superior to ones made completely of tool steel. Anyone got any ideas on this?
  6. As for exact details, I don't know, But my rule is to never put anything galvanized into the fire or any steel that has any coating on it. A basic list of Common dangerous metals though but NO WHERE NEAR inclusive is; Zinc (used to plate metal) Cadmium (used in silver solder and some paints) Chromium (if welding stainless steel) Arsenic (used in treating wood, only applicable if you make charcoal or burn wood) Lead (used in old paints) Selenium (used to replace zinc in some brasses) these are also dangerous as a dust.. so don't grind them off either without the right protection..I'm sur
  7. When I first got my regulator it was turned very far in the anti-clockwise direction and so it could turn a little and no appreciable change would happen.. eventually just figured out turning it further clockwise fixed the problem.. so if its new might wanna try that otherwise there's definatly a block somewhere.
  8. Dude thats very impressive to get a forge weld on the first try.. much less twice. For the heat just put a valve of some sorts. It can be really crude jus make sure theres a place for the air to leave before the valve so when you shut it off all the way you don't screw your blower if its electric. And the scale will go away with less air.. or you can make a deeper fire to consume all the extra oxygen.
  9. This guy does only casting.. but hes built alot of oil burners. A homemade waste oil burner
  10. It could be the laquer on the pipe? otherwise you might wanna try something else than cowboy brand.. you might just be allergic to something in the wood. What'd you insulate it with?
  11. case hardening actually introduces more carbon into the steel therefore making it harder.. while heat treating as a whole either hardens or softens it depending on what you do but doesn't add any more carbon.
  12. its pretty simple: put a point on the rod for the screw and make the handle if its a part of the same rod (ie: not wood or plastic) then take a round piece of steel that is the diameter of the corkscrew you wanna make and wrap the corkscrew steel around it.. if its gonna taper down make the "die" taper by forging it first
  13. Doug, all aluminum is fine for forging so far as i know. Somebody correct me if thats wrong. I melt aluminum stock then forge it normally so its a larger piece.
  14. You can also burn the holes into it. If you want it to last longer try hammering some sheet metal into the most used parts.. worked pretty good for me
  15. I think what they are saying is to not use mild steel.. which leaf spring is superior to. There isn't anything "special" about it it just makes good tools and its cheap or free. You could just just buy some tool steel if you wanna spend a little and not wait, or go to the junk yard.
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