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This is my first post, which I hate to make a series of questions but the deed is done. I'll try to find a place to be helpful, but I am pretty knew to this so I don't know where that would be. I also do not know if this is the correct place to pose a question, if it is not I apologize and ask I be told the correct place. I would absolutely love to make cast iron cook wear, but that seems to be very outside the realm of possibility for my self at the moment. I really want a nice solid skillet that wasn't purchased from lodge. So I was thinking about casting bronze cook wear. I have seen videos and read stories of people doing it but they don't seem to get into the safety side of cooking with bronze. So does anyone have any Idea how to make cooksafe bonze? Or if that is even a thing? Information on the subject is very limited. The only safety tip I can find for cooking with bronze is don't cook acidic foods for the same reason you shouldn't do it with copper cook wear, not much more info than that though. I mainly need an idea for a source of leadfree tin, or just a source of tin. On a related note what about crucibles. I found recipes for fireclay crucibles, which I know are cheap and will crack after a few heats, but will it work for this? I would rather have to make a crucible over and over than buy an expensive one and always fear it will crack and Ill be out the money. As I said, cast iron is a long way off, but out of curiosity where does one find iron? All I can ever find is mild or hard steel, I don't think I have ever seen purchasable iron, even if it was labeled as iron it turned out to be just very low carbon steel. I can post pictures of my forge set up if needed, it's pretty ugly though so Ill refrain unless it is needed. Totally unrelated to this post, as this is my first post I have no idea what the tag system is so I made some up that I figured might exist. Is there a list somewhere? I looked but did not see one, granted I didn't look very hard. Oh and if you don't know an answer to my question, but know of a resource that may contain the information I seek I would love to hear about it.

Cable damascus with perpendicular tang slotted into caribou antler with 3D printed cast bronze medallion. I filled in the gaps of the cable with clear epoxy I mixed gunmetal-blue mica powder into - I always hated how those little gaps were a magnet for all that bad stuff. I made a bunch of these medallions, going to start throwing them on knives I don't want to filework my "N" onto.

Howdy all, I'm back with my newest 3D printed shenanigans. Blade is W2 and pure nickle twisted together, wrought iron spine - can you guess what fellow IFI member inspired the pattern? The frame is printed in plastic then lost-wax style cast in bronze. I designed it so the locking arm is built into the frame. The action is quite smooth, and the release pressure is just where I want it. Several flaws stand out to me about the fit n finish and the action could be tweaked. I am considering a more modern pin; I've had to repin several times to adjust the action. Obviously this is the prototype, so I would love to hear input/critique as I make improvements for a series. Theo

I am taking a metalworking class at my local university and am planning, amongst other things, casting two jewelry boxes, one for each of my daughters. I'm planning on making them out of mild bronze, and they will be approximately 7 inches long by 3 inches wide by 3 inches deep. Should I cast the individual plates and later weld them together, or can something this size simply be casted in two pieces, namely the box and the lid? Would it make more sense to simply cast ingots and beat them into plates? Thanks for any help! (Attached is an image of the basic design I am going to attempt to recreate.)

S30V with 3D printed cast bronze, CNCed dyed stabilized burl, and copper pins. It's been years since I've worked in stainless at all - I love forging too much - but this customer was adamant. The handle pattern is supposed to resemble paracord wrapping. I'm going to engrave his name on the blade, removing the oxidization where the text is.

The past couple of months have been nothing but endless work... which just paid off. Wrapped up these two commissions just a couple weeks ahead of the deadline. Also was "promoted" to manager at the day job - hurrah for extra stress. First is a liner lock with a solid 3D printed bronze "chassis". I designed it with internal pockets to reduce weight, but next time I think I'll go even more skeletal. This client requested a beefy handle, so this guy is .8" thick - I call him the "Bronze Beast". I have yet to weigh it, but to me it feels as if I'm holding a full tang. 4.25" handle, 3.25" blade, blade 5/32" thick. I was not smart with this commission; I was so eager to make a fantastic blade I charged him for monosteel and pretty much took a loss on the project. Thankfully, looks like he's getting another blade after this one, so I'll make it work. Here's a lil video https://vine.co/v/eAZurVbO7F3 Second knife is a friction folder razor. Fella intends to use it, but also wanted something pretty. Ended up using a W2 core with left over 1080 and 1050 shell. Jigged bone, translucent G10, and brass pins. Here's some making-of stuff Comments and critique encouraged Theo

Here's another 3D printed piece with reforged file. Handle is black walnut. Jim Merola, a far more experienced knifemaker in NYC I have been hanging out with, gave some great feedback. I wasn't really digging my choice to use copper pins - he said he doesn't mind them, but would prefer no pins at all; the epoxy he (and now I) use will be a secure enough bond. I also like his suggestion of having the guard stick out a bit farther. He was not happy with my choice of wood... I really should be using something stabilized. He says in general my choice of handle materials don't match the quality of my work, and in some cases is a detriment to the value of the finished piece. Makes total sense, good advice. Anyways, it seems like in two months or so I'll be trying to launch a crowdfunding campaign to drive down the price of 3D printed components by purchasing a SLS 3D printer. This knife, the "Chassis" knife http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/42881-chassis-3d-printed-cast-bronze-liner-lock-with-w2-and-iron/ and the "Titan" knife (still under construction) will all be part of the campaign, so all critique is appreciated since it helps me better the design. Theo

LOVING the new website! Anyways, here's another piece with 3D printed components. There is a sport/outdoor store here in the city that's expressed interest in my work, however most of my blades are too big for their collection, so I forged this guy. 100 year old file forged to shape. 3D printed and cast bronze bolster and buttcap, with cocobolo and brass pins. The finish on the handle could have been cleaner - this is my first real attempt at sharp corners, and could have done better. Comments and critique always appreciated, Theo

To go along with the thread I started in "Historical Blades" on the bronze age arrowheads and spear tip, I am curious to hear from everyone out there what is the oldest man-made object you own. No meteorites or fossils. Only objects that were shaped or made by a human from materials commonly found on earth. Take a reasonable guess on the age. This is NOT a contest. Pictures are a must! Adding the same photo posted in the other thread. These are my oldest man-made item: Bronze age tips, ~3000 to 5000 years old.

These are the oldest man-made items I own. These are bronze age tips. They were given to me by a friend of my father who dealt with museum antiquities. I have cherished them for the past 50 years. I do not know the provenance of them, or exactly how old they are. But they are many thousands of years old. I appreciate that thousands of years after they were made, we can admire the workmanship given the tools and technology of the time. And that because they were made of bronze, they did not rust away. The flip side: