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dkunkler

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Everything posted by dkunkler

  1. dkunkler

    compass1

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  2. dkunkler
    I use the same hammers, soft tool tops and hard hammer heads.
  3. dkunkler
    Really neat cowboy fork, and Mike could you post some photos of the cowboys you described ? I think we all would like to see them.
  4. dkunkler
    It looks like a good starter anvil at a fair price. Sanding or light grinding shouldn't hurt it functionally.
  5. dkunkler
    You can find a more recent version of the book I mentioned in a previous post "How to run a lathe" on ebay. The version I have is the 55th edition from the 1950's. The book explains the speeds depending on your belt and back gear settings. What I found for the weight was, 13" 6 Ft Bed 1560 lbs crated weight for Engine Lathes, add 155 lbs for Toolroom Lathes.
  6. dkunkler
    Join this yahoo group southbendlathe : All about South Bend Lathes: All Models. The Southbend book "How to run a lathe" is very helpfull. How to Run a Lathe - 3rd ed
  7. dkunkler
    I use my lathe to make new tools and repair or restore older tools. I have even used the lathe to make parts for itself.
  8. dkunkler
    My favorite is my 1943 Southbend Heavy 10 lathe.
  9. dkunkler
    I agree with JPH "just take the cable apart, remove the nylon core and put it back together the best you can". This has worked fine for me.
  10. dkunkler
    To get bright colors the steel needs to be sanded, scraped, or brushed down to bare bright metal before heating. Traces of oil from handling before heating can cause uneven coloring. WD40 or other oil finish will make it look brighter. I used WD40 because it was handy and easy to just spray on.
  11. dkunkler
    The cannon barrel is about 6 inches long.
  12. dkunkler
    I got this blue by sanding, washing with degreaser, and heating to about 575 F in my heat treat kiln. I took it out and sprayed with wd40 while still hot.
  13. dkunkler
    If the peened head is to be against wood, use a snug fitting washer between the head and the wood . This gives a larger shoulder without having to peen a large head.
  14. dkunkler
    Check this out. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f85/corn-forge-9259/
  15. dkunkler
    Could you post some pictures please ? Also, what is your location ?
  16. dkunkler
    This may be what you are looking for. http://media.popularmechanics.com/documents/pm-forge-1941.pdf
  17. dkunkler
    Old tire irons make good goose-neck hold-downs. Oil quench and temper like a spring.
  18. dkunkler
    I have used 2 12 volt chargers in series with my electrolysis tub to speed things up, so your 24v charger should work fine. Just watch the ammeter so you don't overload it.
  19. dkunkler
    Check this out. "Metalsmith" 20-3,p21
  20. dkunkler
    I think you can reweld it. Heat till red, bend the loose segment out a little to open up the weld area ,heat till orange , quickly wire brush the scale out of the weld area, bend back closed and sprinkle with flux, bring to welding heat and weld.
  21. dkunkler
    Welcome to Iforgeiron. This is a great place to get started smithing.
  22. dkunkler
    I don't know of a scrap source, but you can buy it online at Admiral steel
  23. dkunkler
    It looks great. To improve the ratio, could you go a little smaller on the blower pulley ? Also maybe a lighter weight belt that would flex more easily around the smaller pulley.
  24. dkunkler
    If you are going to completely restore/rebuild it I suggest reading up on electrolysis. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f21/de-rusting-technique-3425/ I've used this technique to restore several old machines and tools.
  25. dkunkler
    This may help. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/auto-parts-blacksmithing-junk-yard-parts-2806/
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