78sharpshooter

Awesome!

Looks great! Only suggestion is to wear a respirator.

Old leaf spring so I am assuming it's 5160. I forged out a 5/8" x 0.2" flat bar on the power hammer. I plasma cut 1" long sections and tested a rang of different temps from 1550 to 1465 followed by room temp peanut oil quench in about 5/8 gallon jug. I tested each piece in 6 different spots on the rockwell hardness tester and found my best result of a 62 RC average with 1475. So I then forged a knife from this same leaf, ground it to rough shape, went with the 1475 and quenched into 4 gallons of rom temp peanut oil. I only got to 45 RC and tried different Temps and also agitated the oil with a drill and paint mixer. Still only 45 RC. So I then water quenched and the bevel stress fractured so I could not get reliable measurements but the spine got to 60. So I am thinking my oil quench was too slow but based on the results with the test pieces I thought it would work. Does heating the oil to 150 or so have such a huge impact on the cooling rate that the larger mass of the knife versus the test pieces caused insufficient cooling?

Can't wait to see a vid of that thing hitting steel.

Get it. It's only money and if it is at least a decent price then you can always sell it later and not take a huge loss. Plus 200 lbsr's don't show up all that often.

My experience was that the warehouse let's the broker know that the hammer is available for pickup. You go to the warehouse and stand in line with your paperwork, pay them a little money for warehouse fees, then they tell you to go to a specific dock in the warehouse, hand a guy at the doc a form, he goes and grabs the hammer and loads it onto your trailer. If there is any major damage to the wood box, take a hard look before you sign the form the forklift guy asks you to sign because once you sign you accept shipment.

So I instead got some 3/8" ID clear PVC hose and hooked up the blower. It was about 2.25" WC. So I think a cheaper dayton blower from amazon would work fine for a brick and crayon ribbon burner.

Started blacksmithing about 5 years ago with the intent to become proficient at moving hot metal and then start bladesmithing. Got heavily into it and now have a 88 lbs power hammer and large screw press and a few anvils. So this is my first try at forging a knife. Old bandsaw blade and O1 with a hidden tang. I didn't have any brass or bronze so I melted down nickels into a slab and then plasma cut the shape and ground it down for the guard and pomel. Behind the guard is a piece of antler from a shed I found 20 years ago back in high school. Then a piece of Gaboon ebony and then some black walnut. Now I have a few more waiting to be finished; a 15n20-1095 and a 15n20-1095 40 layerson either side of a 52100.

Not sure if this helps but On a 50 lbs little giant I had I cleaned up the bottom of the bottom dovetail using a router with a trapezoidal stone. By referencing off of the milled area on either side of the dovetail I got the bottom near perfectly smooth and within +/- .002 across the whole surface. I then used 1/8" mild steel to shim up the lower die back to the original height.

The anticipation is huge when waiting to get your hands on it after all that time thinking about the hammer. I tracked the boat with vessel finder everyday when waiting for mine. It was worse when the port of long beach was so backed up that the boat sat there for almost 3 weeks waiting to be unloaded.

When I looked at this originally it was on my phone and I could not see well enough. Looking at it again I can see them.

Will there be forklift holes in the base on that size c41?

I think there might be an error in your conversion because I doubt the 164 could blow bubbles if the output tube was placed 6ft down into a pool. I will try it to see at what point it fails to blow bubbles which should be the water column pressure.

I recently made a ribbon burner and use crayons foe the holes. I bought the 164 cfm blower from blacksmiths depot. I have to choke the blower way down to almost closed to run the burner even at welding heat. If I want to really put the heat on I Crack the choke to 1/3 open and turn the gas up and that is when the forge is so hot you cannot even see detail inside without wearing sunglasses. One possible route is to order a dayton blower from amazon and if it doesn't work, just return it without losing a dime. I lost power to my blower once and all that happened was that there were large slow orange flames spewing from the forge.

I wish I started off with a ribbon burner forge because this forge gets incredibly hot very quick (I have never had a propane forge that you had to keep an eye on because it could burn half inch bar pretty quick). I used a 100 lbs propane tank to make this forge, 2 layers of 1" kaowool, then about 7/16" of mizzou, then shot a 1 to 2mm thick layer of 70% Zircon 30% Kaolin. I previously had 2 one inch pipe venturi burners in this forge and it got hot enough to use but simply lacked the ability to get to the upper range of forging temp. The ribbon burner works so well that I had to keep my sunglasses on to be able to look inside the forge. The soft firebrick I use, that has lasted over a year, to take up space in the back of the forge broke apart from the heat of the ribbon burner. So the point of this post is to hopefully inform those who are building a forge that the ribbon burner is hands down the way to go in terms of 1) time it takes to get the forge to temp, 2) workpiece heating time, and 3) forge welding. (at least this is just like my opinion, dude). https://instagram.com/p/6rDerNBUeb/

These hammers come with a base that holds the anvil. The base also forklift holes in it. Installing my C41-40kg hammer was just as easy as installing the 50 lbs little giant I had.

I have a solar charged car battery for my led shop lighting and was wondering if this 12v blower would work for a 10 to 12 inch ribbon burner.http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/DAYTON-Blower-2C646 I have read that 5 inch water column pressure would be sufficient but am not sure of the coversion of SP to wc.

I am doing more forging of items to sell and now that I have my 88lbs self contained hammer I am forging 3 to 4 billets at a time. With my homemade 2 burner forge (2" of wool, sodium silicate soaked, mortar coated, and kaolin/zirconia silicate coated with standard mig tip burners with milled slot air intakes) I came to wonder if the burners for sale from companies such as chile forge are really worth the money in terms of heat generated. Basically, my question is would I notice a significant reduction in the time it takes to heat my billets if I bought professionally built burners? I would just like to hear observations from you all before I drop $400 on 2 burners.

Picked up my c41-40kg hammer and am up and running now (had problems with a huanyang VFD that would trip at 6.5 amps; now got a TECO). The edges on the flat dies came sharp so I radiused them at about 1/32" or so to start but was wondering what everyone here prefers.

I think this press is a good and has an auto run cycle with adjustable limit switches for drawing out to a precise thickness. Scroll to the bottom of this page and there are some videos of it running. http://www.flemingknives.com/largepress.htm

What about an iron kiss? How important is control to you? what size of material do you most often forge?

Does the bottom of the cylinder rest on the 1.5 inch plate? If not it will at the first use

sometimes old tires are perfect for a cushion to lay a power hammer down. A one ton gantry would be ideal for uprighting the hammer.

Thanks for sharing this. It is perfect timing for me as I am setting up my c41-40 two piece hammer.

I noticed that on the striker 88 hammer there is only one square plate on the outside of the working cylinder and seems to be roughly in the midpoint of the stroke whereas other c41-40kg hammers there are 2 square plates for the air supplement, one at the top of the stroke and one at the bottom. Does anyone know what the functional difference is between these designs?