78sharpshooter

I picked up a 400 blower for $100 in good condition serial#573713 and was wondering how these were mounted. There is no tab for a stand but only a flange at the output. This will be the 4 th blower I have dug into (aluminum champion, smaller buffalo, and a canedy Otto) and seems to be much better built with bearings and adjustments. Also looks like someone forgot to put the P in "patented" on the side (anyone else see this)

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I picked up a 400 blower for $100 in good condition serial#573713 and was wondering how these were mounted. There is no tab for a stand but only a flange at the output. This will be the 4 th blower I have dug into (aluminum champion, smaller buffalo, and a canedy Otto) and seems to be much better built with bearings and adjustments. Also looks like someone forgot to put the P in "patented" on the side (anyone else see this)

Picked up this C G Garrigus screw press for a decent price. Long drive but not too bad. The rough part was getting it into my small 10 x 12 shop which took a few hours. But I did not injure myself so I count that as a success. It is a 3 inch 2 lead 1.5" pitch screw. The wheel is about 40" and weighs 400 or so and the total weight of the press might be over 2000. It has a 1.5" die shank and I tried it out for the first time today with a fuller type die and flat bottom plate. I tried throwing the wheel and also pushing it(moving the die into the piece with pressure on the handle). In both cases it really moves the metal and th bonus is that you get a decent workout at the same time. I'll be playing with it more in the next few weeks and get some more tooling made.

The press is pretty large and only after finishing the job did we realize that the stand could be unbolted which would have made it much easier to move.

Thanks for the advice. I will try this measurement method. On a side note I spent 4 hours getting my new screw press of the trailer and into my shop. It was pretty painful but safe.

I pulled both dies from the old style 50# little giant and when measuring the dovetail on the dies it does not appear to be tapered. I checked the dovetail on the block and ram and those are straight as well. The die key appears to be the only thing that is tapered. These might be original dies because both of them had the pin in the bottom still intact. I was under the impression that the die was tapered such that the taper of the die key matched and resulted in a parallel dovetail but this does not seem to be the case here. (is there a specific way to measure the taper on the dies?) I removed the dies with the intent to machine some new die sets (basically a dovetail that is just proud of the ram or block and tap holes so I can bolt in different dies as needed). Has anyone else found this?

I have some 6" x 6" square tube 1/4" wall and have been thinking of using it for a 25 to 30 ton press. It would be 36" tall with a 12" width all from the square tube with and added I beam at top and bottom. Is the tube too light for this? I was thinking that the cross sectional area of the total steel in the steel tube is just at 6 sq in and and tension in each corner would only be 30000 psi so the tension per sq inch is only 5000 lbs so I thought this should be sufficient.

Yes, that is the exact one. I took the advice and left the idler alone, scrubbed it and rinsed with kerosene many times, oiled it and put it back together and it turns smoothly but does make some noise from the output shaft having a little too much radial play in it. It moves quite a bit of air for a smaller blower. I am not sure I will keep it though because I don't like the forge itself and like my aluminum champion blower better. What is a fair price for this?

I picked up a rivet forge with a fairly small champion hand crank blower (the 400 dwarfs this one and it has no model info on the casting). The gearcase in parallel to the fan blade and I was able to disassemble it except I can't get the idler gear & shaft out. There is no bolt holding the gear on the shaft but it looks like the castings on the housing have some pressed in washers or something on either side of the shaft. What do you think?

Wow, Thanks for all the input you guys provided. I will definitely leave the edges alone and start making a hardy block (does it need to be tool steel?). Finally I will be able to get answers to the blacksmithing questions I have had for a while now.

I picked up this PW #150 for $300 a year or so ago and the lack of a nice edge is nagging me (making tongs mostly). I know some suggest to use a hardy tool that is a block to get that edge but not knowing anyone who knows about blacksmithing led me to post here. I am a decent hobby welder (TIG, stick, wire) so welding up the edges is within my abilities but I wanted to get input before committing.