samw1

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About samw1

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  • Location
    Iowa ,USA

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  • Location
    Iowa
  • Biography
    love to read and write.
  • Interests
    blacksmithing, chainmail, flintknaping, oldworld things.
  • Occupation
    bus boy and cook.

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  1. samw1

    Peter wright anvil

    It looks like to me it has been welded with nickle on the edges and face. Though without seeing it in person I can't say for sure.
  2. Pics are as follow, first is the rear guides at BDC approx .085 play. Next is front guides approx .030 play. Final is rear guides at TDC .050 play. Its hard to see but on the left side of the tup it is visibly worn. Front looks good. Im not sure shimming less would help in the back unless I shimed in between the frame and the guide as well to angle it in. Let me know what yoy think.
  3. Judson, removing existing material is not a option im in favor of. There are shims between the front and back guides on the frame. Due to how the guide is mounted to the frame i fear I have taken all the slack out I can with the shims. I know with the front shims I shimed until it stopped binding. The back are the loosest ones at I'm going tk approximate at .075 with my measurements. I was under the impression with the tensioner on the shackles of the spring is how I tightened the belt. I may have to re wrap with the eyebolt nuts as loose as they go but unless I have concrete instructions that say compress the leafs im warry about doing so. Im not sure if the patent number is on the machine. I will try to post a pic of the badge and see whay yall think. Thanks for all the advice so far!!
  4. Where would I find said patents? And for what brand should I look for?
  5. I am afraid to have the tup repaired since it is cast. It would have to be built up with weldment and machined back down. On the left side of the rear slide on the tup it is visibly worn down. How much play am I allowed to have?
  6. No I did not compress the springs before belting it. I did use the eye bolts on the shackles to add as much tension as I could.
  7. Black frog, I moved the clamps out to stop them from rubbing against the ram. It was causing a lot of ware on the head. Also do you know how much play I'm allow in the ram guides? Either I'm holding my steel wrong or my ram is floping enough to cause my steel to diamond. I've eliminated as much play as possible, my only other option is to pull the ram and have the slides built back up and machined down. Unless yall have another idea.
  8. Well I finally got the scranton up and running and boy does she run good. I'm still in the tuning phase and had a couple questions for yall. This is the first mechanical hammer I have ran and am wondering if kinetic feed back in the treadle is normal? Another thing I'm running into is my belt that runs threw the ram is sliding to the right. Now this wouldn't be a problem but for the fact my belt clamp is lightly smacking the side of the guide. Any tips on fixing that? Here is a pic that kinda shows the belt running to the right. Otherwise shes a beauty and I love her. Thanks all.
  9. Andrew, the crack is in the back of the hammer near the hole for the top u bolt that holds the hammer. Its a vertical crack that extends towards the hole at about a 45 degree angle towards the hole. I wire wheeled all around it and it does not seem to reach into the hole. Aprox 2 in in length. I plan on going nuts with a wire wheel anywhere there is a stress point. Might just do the whole dang thing to make sure. Ive already contacted a local welder who has experience in welding cast iron to come look at it. If it was cast steel I would be set because I weld cast steel on a daily basis. Unfortunately i have no cast iron welding experience. I will keep you all posted and will try to post pics.
  10. Ok guys. Bit of an issue. Frame has small crack. Will be looking for more in high stress areas. Will weld once power is hooked up to power. This would be cast iron being 100 years old right? No chance of cast steel?
  11. Hey all. Here's the scranton and co hammer I got. It was actually a lot easier to move than I had thought. As you can see she is standing in the shop and is in need of a foundation. I think I've got a good handled on that. However I have a few questions on making sure she is up and running right. First I'd really like to know how much play I'm allowed to have in the shaft bearings and the head guides. The bearing caps seem to be able to be tightened to take out play. Same with the head guide mounts. What oil should I use for the bearings and what grease should be used on the head guides. The electric motor also has oil ports, is there a special oil for the motor? The hammer head looks like its twisted and i know it needs new belts but am not sure how to fix those. There is also a weld on ends of the springs. The appear to be broke so I'm not sure as to there intent. There is 4 holes in the frame for the electric motor to mount. One is striped and really close to the frame and it concerns me. If it's fine where its at, can I helicoil the hole? If there are any other things you can tell me or give me advice on, I'm all ears.
  12. Good news! All is well and she is sitting in the shop! Now to just figured out what I need to do to make sure she runs well!!
  13. Frosty I have very little rigging experience. I would like to try and back the trailer in and tilt it out/lift it up but I have a pole building and am not sure it could take it. Ill try to post pics of where its going to give you a better idea.