78sharpshooter

Import Tax in the USA for forging hammers is 4.4%. The HTS number is 8462.10.00 and you have to file an ISF at least 3 days prior to the hammer being loaded onto the ship otherwise you can be fined up to $5000. I found a broker to handle it for me and it was $95 for the broker fee, $50 for the Customs bond, and $50 for the ISF bond. Transit from China to longbeach is around 17 to 19 days. Then the waiting for the longshoremen as well. Then a consolidator takes the container and opens it up at a warehouse and contacts either you or the broker. Once customs is passed you can pick it up from the consolidator. On Alibaba Liushi is listed as a trading company with 5 - 10 employees so I am not sure if it is an actual manufacturer. Alibaba has trade assurance for different amounts depending upon the seller and make sure it is more than the purchase price. They also have an inspection service to ensure that it meets the quality level specified in the contract that you approve in order to place the order through alibaba. So the seller drafts the contract and you review and either approve or request modifications to it. Even if you get a power hammer you still need an anvil which I would suggest the Ridgid Anvil from toolup daught com

Here are the pics of the block and the hammer. The block was originally for my 50# LG so I have to cut those studs. The base for the hammer contains the anvil at the correct height so I essentially need a nice flat surface on the concrete before putting the wood on there. I can rent a scarifier for $75 for 3 hours, or get 2 or 3 bags of mortar for less but am not sure if the mortar is a good idea or whether the scarifier can be successfully used to make a usable surface.

My 3 x 4 x 30" deep concrete base does not have an even or smooth surface (the concrete truck, I believe, shorted me on the volume I ordered so I was 1.5" below the top of my form and could not screed the surface). Should I rent a scarifier and try to even it out or should I layup some mortar before putting the hardwood underlayment on?

Sold the 50# LG and have an 88 lbs pneumatic on the way (two piece with base; anvil is 880 lbs) and was wondering what the best material would be for setting the hammer on. The concrete block I put in for the LG is 3' wide 4' long and 30" deep (isolated from the shop slab). Wood or stall mat or both? I mainly want to reduce noise (I used a decibel meter to see how loud the LG was which was just on a stall mat).

I am planning on making my first folder and have searched to see if there are kits (without a blade) and could not find one. Has anyone hear made a folder with bought components and forged the blade? I plan to give this knife as a gift to a friend and use a shed antler for the handle/slab material that we found together almost 20 years ago.

Forgot the pic

I really like this vise but can't find anything to compare it to in determining a fair price.

I thought it is called dial-a-ho? :)

That sucks. One thought would be to remove the whole shaft and chuck it up in the lathe and turn the damaged threads off and then either rethread it and make a new die holder to match or turn the threads off and machine a new die holder for a press fit or thermal fit. Just don't weld the die holder onto the screw because the die holders are made to be removable to repair them. One other way would be do drill and tap the end of the screw and make a new die holder with a recessed hole to take a bolt. If you plan on doing some serious punching with this press you'll need a stripper to remove the piece from the punch and this can pull with quit a bit of force on the die holder.

I just got this together and at a reasonable price too, fan is made in Germany and is continuous duty rated so I am hoping it holds up! It certainly moves enough air at full speed.

Wow, it is in very good condition. How much does it weigh?

I was thinking of using 1/4" or so copper cylinders, 2 and 4 lbs steel cylinders dropped through a vented PVC pipe from exactly the same starting point to impact the copper cylinder and then measure the copper cylinder to see how much it was squished. While it is obvious that there is a direct relationship between energy and plastic deformation, that relationship may not be linear and instead might be a curve or logarithmic function in which 2 blows from a lighter hammer may not equal one blow from a 2x as heavy hammer at equal velocities. It might also be interesting to see if there is a difference in thickness of copper cylinders when doing this on a 120 lbs anvil and a 320 lbs anvil.

Just wondering after watching this

This one looks like rubber belting shims or spacers

I was using balsa for the shims but I am sure someone here has a much better suggestion on what shim material to use.

I collected up the chips from my bandsaw, mostly from cutting 4140 with no coolant, and was wondering if there is anything these chips could be useful for?

I know some have used car blowers but all that I have seen are open and I am looking for one that has the housing built in. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all the input guys. I am taking the majority's advice and just use it and hope I don't miss. I cold hammered a 1/2" hex head bolt and it did not do anything to the surface so I think it will hold up for hot work for the time being. Perhaps one day I will do as VaughnT suggested and weld a plate to the top and use it for the rest of my life. I did notice when I was hammering the bolt that the sheer mass of the anvil is nice in that it just does not want to move even when swinging fairly hard. Out of all the forums I have participated in, I must say that iforgeiron has the best people!!

Here are more close ups.

Here are the pics. Couldn't sleep much last night as I was thinking about how to fix this. The last picture is the divit left from the 1" ball bearing.

I won't go into how I got the anvil or what I paid for it (#&%$!) but it I just took ownership of it (300+ lbs peter wright) and after cleaning up the face with a sanding disk the majority of the anvil is <50% rebound and my cross pein easily dents the face (just to make sure I went to my shop and test both a 150# peter wright and a 120# WBB and they both rebounded back to my hand from 24"without leaving any mark on the face and the cross pein itself was dented when tested on these). The Heel rebounds most and results in a loud ring (testing with a 1" ball bearing dropped from 12"). I am guessing that at one time this anvil was heavily used on the face and got too hot. The rest of the face when tested results in small divits from the ball bearing. My question is does anyone know of a commercial heat treating place that will re-heat treat the anvil? Also, if I can find a place that will do it should I have the edges TIG welded with 1095 as filler?

One of those burners is completely choked. Try lowering the pressure and choke half open

I mixed the kaolin and zircon and it looks nothing like Itc-100. Where do the black specs in Itc-100 come from? I did find a patent that utilizes silicon carbide and compares their formulation to chamotte. http://www.google.com/patents/US4469721

Is the emissivity of zirconium sand higher than silicon carbide?

Getting ready to redo my 2 propane forges so I wanted to make an ITC-100 like coating and saw Dave Hammers video using the colloidal silica and zirconium silicate mixture. When I once used ITC-100 it was quite gritty and had black flecks in it so I was thinking there might be some silicon carbide in there so I was considering mixing it into the Kaolin/Zircon final coating and wondered if anyone has tried it. I did find this research article on Silicon Carbide coating of ceramic fibre useful but was looking for more recent experience http://qirt.gel.ulaval.ca/archives/qirt2008/papers/06_02_08.pdf