unkle spike

Welcome back, Mike Rose is a member of our local guild here in Knoxville, great guy.

I saw them made years ago on TV, this guy had hundreds of them. He started with a piece of steel cut out like a bowtie, and bent and formed them in half to form a cow bell.

Also the higher temps may contribute to cracking sooner, and oxidation which causes them to erode over time.

The idea of a brake drum forge is for the brake drum to be the Fire Pot, not the entire forge. I use brake discs instead, they are lower, and then build the forge around them. The non finned ones work better, they will take an incredible amount of heat, as that is what they are designed for.

Prayers said here also...

Everyone thinks "Bigger is Better" when it comes to brake drum forges and goes for a Truck Drum. The brake drum is only the fire pot, and you surround it with something else, like the 55 gal drum forge etc. Just a large brake drum is far too deep for the entire forge. I am glad I don't have any restrictions yet on a coal forge.

If you bolt it you can take it apart if needed, if you weld it, you can't replace parts that do wear or burn out. Bolt it....

Prayers said and continue for you and your family, hope all works out. We miss you, but understand your need to be at "home".

I just scoop the firepot out and lightly douse the flames with a soda bottle that I have drilled a couple of small holes in the cap. Or you could use your shovel to pat the flames out if you are worried about the firepot.

I agree with the draw filing, it works wonders for taking dips and gouges out. Hold file in both hands perpendicular to the blade, and run it back and forth up and down the blade. Good Thread on it: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f52/wow-draw-filing-6388/

I was told the number stamped on the heel was the "inspectors mark". Haybudden, haybudden haybudden....

Anchor your anvil to the stand, no necessarily the floor. Mine is on a large block of wood, which isn't secured to the floor, it does "walk" some when I am hammering sideways, like on the horn.

I have one sitting in "the shed" an old one my Dad gave me, have yet to hook it up, as it needs a pretty good sized air source. Most look like small welders now. And they are pretty expensive, check out Tractor Supply, they handle Hobart Brand.

I have heard from a couple of sources it will be "around" $200. One of our Guild members is on the setup/teardown committee.

I have cut the top funnel section off one liter soda bottles, flipped it over, and stuff it inside the body of the bottle, a little Mountain Dew and soap mixture works, they seem to be able to fly in well enough, but most can't find their way out if the soap mixture don't get them first. I have done that with the small 20 ounce bottles, and have the bottle packed just about full overnight, seems like the ones in the bottle call the others to join them.

Anthracite CAN be used for forging, that is what I use because I get it free. It does however come with some drawbacks. 1. Very Stinky 2 Clinkers 3. If it is Top Seam coal, it can actually add scale to your project. If it is free, I would give it a shot, Anthracite varies from vein to vein. You could take a small bucket home and give it a shot. Mine is #2 Stinkohantas, other than smell and clinkers, it does coke off and produce more than enough heat. It is a bear to forge weld with, due to the impurities in it, but it can be done, it will however soil a damascus bar before you can get a good stick. If it has been kept dry it should be fine, you could always give some to your friends who have no coal, or stuff childrens stockings at Christmas.

I agree, I would get it. The 55lb ASO from HF isn't worth the money, unless you have no other alternative. The 110lb is a better anvil, but they don't sell that one anymore.

Bad idea, use it as it, swayback is actually a bonus. I have a mousehole with around 3/16" of swayback in it, and it works good for straightening stock, the swayback helps with "springback" that you get. At the very least, use it for 6 months before making a decision.

Question: "What kind of money does a farrier make?" Answer: Hard Earned Money.

If you are cutting hot metal there are various things you could use. An old discarded axe head clamped in a vice would work. Biggest thing is use something you have control over so you don't cut a hand, finger or arm. And safety glasses always :)

Vulcan or Arm and Hammer. I would say Vulcan. "live long and prosper"

What weight is the Hammer?

What weight is the hammer?

What size hammer?

Check auto parts stores for 2" exhaust tubing, it is galvanized, but a grinder will take care of that. The pipe "shouldn't" get hot enough to matter. I have a galvy one on mine and the coating looks as good as the day I put it on.