unkle spike

Ummm Don, if you notice I am from Powell, which is close to Knoxville, so how am I ever going to make millions on my "Victorian Maces" if you keep debunking them.... (Just kidding, I saw this one too, and thought "what are they thinking")

You can get hair dryers that have a "cool" or "cold" setting, where the heating element is not used. I had a cheap one from Walmart when I started that was that type. However, gasses belching back through them and popping will blow them up... ;)

Miller and Hobart both have forums, perhaps you would be better to ask there?

By the looks of the feet, I think it is a Mousehole anvil. I am sorry I signed the Certificate of Death in an earlier post. It can be fixed, and you don't have much in it, so to put some time in it would be worth it.

The "odd" pricing scheme came about from SS Kresge (later Kmart), because he wanted to make it harder for clerks to steal from the till, by having odd amounts, they would have to pilfer "odd" amounts making discrepancies in there cash drawers easier to catch. Also he was a pioneer of the price diversion that you point out. 99 cents is a whole lot cheaper than a buck. One other thing to note as of late you only see the "rebate" amount, or the "discount" amount when you see car ads on TV. Why? Because they would rather have you associate the $3500 number than the true price of the vehicle, which in most cases makes your jaw drop. I do as Unicorn does, easier pricing, easier change, take it or leave it. (semi rant over, we will now continue with our regularly scheduled programming)

One of the worst cases of Anvil abuse I have ever seen. Play taps and give it a merciful funeral, sad to say, it is done.... Use it for what you can.....at least the horn aint broke off.

I don't split hairs when it comes to this. "Traditional" is a misnomer. We all practice a craft called blacksmithing. If you really wanted to get technical, if you light your forge with a lighter versus matches, you are not doing it the "Traditional" way. Now if you took a 5 axis CNC to make a hot dog fork, "Hand made" would be a bit of a stretch.

The one on the vertical shaft (driver end) would probably be fine as it is mostly a linear force driving it in line with the joint. But on the other end (head) end you are applying force 90 degrees to the joint. As I told you over the phone, the "spring sliding between two bolts" is the simplest approach that most use.

Hey, chat was there... If you think the forums are good, try the chat. I am usually there every night.

AMEN ! Glad to hear all is better, will continue to pray for her..

What a GREAT looking shop, I love the antique element to it. There may be some type of economical concrete sealer you could use on it.

Thoughts and prayers sent here as well, hope all turns out well.

It's one thing to translate how an Aussie talks, it is entirely another thing to translate how he thinks.....

Exactly Pete, my truck has 243,000 miles, but you can't beat the payments.

I had heard somewhere that only the Drivelines (eng and trans) must be disabled or removed, so the rest of the parts should still be there.

I thought it was Cash for CLINKERS, I have a ton of those, too bad they won't give me $4500 for them....

1. Square stock to square taper, varied lengths, go for a smooth taper. 2. Square stock to round taper, again smooth even taper. Then do round stock to round tapers. 3. Fishtail ends on various stocks, flatten, then start to bend over the edge of the anvil, flip it over and back hammer roll it toward you. Experiment with different hammers. 4. 90 Degree bends, use a vice. Then go on to a "90 Degree inside AND outside bend". 5. Smooth Roll Bends over the horn, Rings if you have the patience, or work up to them. 6. Twists, square stock, then round with a flat spot hammered in it. Experiment with the edges, so you get different results. Use a 1" section, and note how different number of revolutions result in different looking twists. 7. Forge welding after you learn hammer/fire control. Use small diameter stocks to start, they heat quick, but they also burn up in the fire quick, forcing you to learn fire control, but not costing alot if you make mistakes. I don't have time this week, but if you would like sample pics of each, I will see what I can whip up on Saturday? :)

I would be sure to add some "extra" weight to the bottom if needed. I like the design, can't wait to see progress on it. We're here if you need us.

Looks more like a swage block now....sad to see. Hope it doesn't end up in a "Would you try to fix this?" thread here at a later date.

The thread addresses Antique Shops, are you selling "Antiques made to Order" again Rich? I was thinking along the vein of Blacksmithing Tools.

The other thing that sticks out to me, is the tops being round. Rolling flatbar on the edge like that can be a bugger, especially getting a nice round radius to it. Other than that, go to it Dave !

Don't act like you are interested in it for it's purpose. Or act like you don't know what it is. "That Anvil would look good on my porch, but I wouldn't pay $X for an anvil to sit on my porch" "I have never seen a vice (post vice) like that, but I could use it on the farm, if I could afford it" [everyone knows farmers these days have no money ] Or just look cheap, and ask for a deal. I am good at looking cheap it is my daily dress.

Just a few small tacks in the exposed threads will go a long way to make them theft proof, at least more "theft resistant".

Grooves under the horn would be for forming specific sized rings. I often put a soap stone mark on my horn to form rings on a specific radius or make them match. Seeing as a horn is actually a cone, the grooves would help to produce a round ring and not a spiral. JMO. Your results may vary.

Actually most Auto Parts stores have some short lengths of exhaust pipe in the stores.