Ridgewayforge

From experience, I would skip the wooden table. A consideration might be to get a washing machine lid, put it on the wood frame and use it as you would the 55 drum forge. It works on the same concept with the added benefit that you will have more table space. If it needs more support so it won't sag, put some bed-frame angle iron around the edges, or some bar stock along the middle of the sheet steel, for some added support. With some clay atop it, you'll find that your forge will be quite servicable.

That is looking pretty fantastic!

Look at your work is positively riveting! fantastic skill and execution.

Thank you all for your input! Seems I truly do have a long way and a lot to watch out for. I plan on taking a class next summer, between now and then I'm only going to get very little forge time, unfortuately. This is a lot of information to chew on and reflect on, too. Thank you all for taking the time to list these errors, a fair few of which I have succumbed to now and then!

Well, at this point I cannot get it back into the fire- I'm going to be away from the forge and smithing for a few months, unfortunately. I just think there must be some way to do it cold. But next time I will try igniting the wax. Thanks CurlyGeorge!

(not sure if this is better here or in Alchemy and Formulas-seemed good here, but moderator please move it if it is better in the other location) I have recently finished a big project for a friend's son's boy scout troop- a cooking spegalia type set-up with a dozen S hooks, and he wanted them finished with a carbon finish coated with beaswax. So, I ran it back in forth through a coal fire to get that nice carbon on it, and applied the beeswax. However, now after it has cooled overnight, it is still a little bit sticky. Is there anything I can do to keep it from being too tacky? THanks! ~RidgewayForge

Pretty straightforward- good work, solid work, nice tongs!

I consider myself a beginner blacksmith- I have made and continue to make small items as I work on my technique and form. Meanwhile, I would like to take a class or two, but cannot due to current time restraints. (I hope next summer opens up for me!) So, while I continue my work, I would like to ask for my benefit and all other newbie blacksmiths: What are some of the most common Beginner Mistakes, and how are they avoided?

Processed charcoal briquettes Contain a lot of unessisary filler. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Briquette This explains some of the additives used. Try a bag of natural charcoal, the lump stuff, and then let me know if it is still not getting hot enough.

90 degree edges will mar your work and will chip more easily than rounded ones. If its a good anvil overall, buy it and make yourself an edging tool- simply a hardy that is square or octagon with sharp edges.

How long did it take you to forge down the thick head on the rail? This is a very interesting project, and I may have to steal borrow it from you some day and make my own! ^_^ Also, I have found that even short sections are cumbersome to hold, did you use tongs?

Excellent use of railroad rail! Did you do much grinding on it or is this purely forged? Great work, might have to go and make one myself!

Glenn, I do stand corrected. But nevertheless, it sounds as if charcoal smoke is not going to kill you if you accidentally inhale a little bit. A good way to prevent inhalation is to observe the prevailing winds, take note at when they shift during the days on a normal day, and forge accordingly. Additionally, if the air pressure is low, then the smoke will hang about. So take into consideration that, as well. These two things have helped me immensely.

He might not *need* one, but it sure is a neat looking contraption!

Glenn, wood is an organic material, which, when made into charcoal, is freed from any volatile matter and any impurities which it has in it. If the charcoal is burned, then the worst that it can do is cause athsma attacks and aggrivate sensitive tissue. No real health danger for a good, strong, thinking individual. I would advise against breathing plumes of it in, but any burning material is going to give off some sort of fume, smoke or something of the like. I guess all I'm trying to say is that it is no more dangerous than any other fuel, and it shouldn't be considered hazardous. Just my .02, though. :)

Welcome both new guys in MD! I'm just a little east of Mt. Airy myself, a little north of Damascus and a little West of Fredneck, and a little south of Libertytown.

Its just charcoal: its not bad for you. At least, not any worse than MOST people throw in fires and breathe in. Consider that its all natural, and people have lived with fire since the dawn of time, and sure a lot of people get black snot... talk to a boy scout after a summer camp. There will be plenty of evidence that it is not harmful.

Read as many different books you can which cover the basics of forging: drawing out, flattening, upsetting, bending etc. The different veiwpoints will help you to understand some of the complexities a bit better. Remember, its really just fancy hammer-hitting-hot-metal, so just start and get a feel for it. But read read read!

I agree with Thomas. My apron already catches on way too many things, I'm sure yours does too. (although, if you ever wanted to sell it afterwards, just call it steampunk!)

I sent you a PM. Let me know if you want some help, I've been using charcoal pretty consistantly for a while.

Guiltyspark, Charcoal is a little tougher than coal in that there is more info on coal than there is on charcoal. I have for sale a Canedy Otto Charcoal Forge (designed, I'm told, for the use with charcoal), if you're interested. Just PM me if you are. Also, where in MD are you specifically?

A Before picture. The tuyere sticks through the cut off beam in the forefront.

Let me clarify: It wasn't really the plywood that caught fire. It was the 2X6" support wood which began to char, right up where it meets the plyboard. Does anyone have a picture of their wood-framed forge? It is the poor man's forge, but its what I had on hand, and right now I'm out a little bit of money due to spending a little bit over budget, so I needed something to hold the firepot so I can finish a commissioned peice.

I have drempt up a wood base forge pan, and lt it up tonight, only to have it catch fire. The forge comprised of a plywood base, a layer of mud/sand mix topped with a layer of firebricks. The only part that started smouldering was around my Champion Whirlwind Firepot, which ignited the wood through radient energy. Has anyone successfully accomplished a wood-base forge, and if so, how? Is it even possible?

HW, There is a clinker breaker visible inside, which is visible, and is a pick-style clinker breaker. The slots in the firepot looks pretty rough, and it shows signs that someone might have melted some iron in the fire, which dripped down and partially filled the clinker breaker holes. I'll try to get a picture to see if I can be more clear, and Frank I will try the heat. Thank you for your input!