hans138

no problem glen, i hope no ones feelings were hurt or ego's brusied.. i have no personal problems with mr hofi and at the time of the original posting i really only knew him through his hammers (wich i was surprised to see so many diff thoughts both negative and positive), and few other bits of misleading info. we're all friends here righ? ;)

the only 2 cents i have on this is slow down, watch the edges of the weldpool and move slow enough that when you see the undercut happening move slow enough that you see it filled. also im pretty sure you can run 7018 A/C but you need to do it at low ampers.

do you have access to a arc welder? that has always worked for my plug welds. also is your mig welder a 110, 220?

I went back and reviewed the other thread- http://www.iforgeiro...__fromsearch__1 - the original post mentions an ergo hammer that had an offset eye he got from Peih tool. His next post (post #3) was that he hoped the exchange one is perfectly balanced. That leads me to believe his problem was solved at that point. Then other people started riding him for dissing Hofi and it all snowballed from there. He did not even bring up Hofi or Stumptown though he did have an opinion stated after a lot of badgering by others. I am not surprised he is not here on this thread. r smith Quote MultiQuote Report thanks for pointing that out for me and everyone else Mr. Smith

HI folks, for those of you who dont know im the person who posted the origianl post about the "ergonomical" "Czech" or "Hofi"style hammer way back at the end of 2011. For some reason i was or at least felt attacked on few different fronts so this caused me to become defensive but in my opinion not out of line. and for a while after even had to have all my posts "cleared" by a moderator for some reason. I tryied to post that the hammer was deemed defective, and was replaced. not only that but i was givin a free roundeing hammer out of generosity from the both the smith and the tool compony who acted as the middle man. This solidified what upstanding people i was dealing with and will not hesitate to do business i the future or to refer them to a family or friends. but i could not do this because the post was shut down over the debates that were going on, for some reason. and also many of my other post's and re-ply to posts just would not get cleard by the moderator. so shortly after that i never really got back on this site, but today i was here and saw this post and just wanted to jump in and say whats on my mind. I do apologize for getting a hit heated about the whole Uri thing, and the post was totally overtaken an steered in the wrong direction. the origianl purpose for the post was to see what other smiths opinion's were about THE HAMMER and if it being a 1/4 inch or so off kilter is what made it feel weird. when my replacement finally arived i could tell a big difference, and its now my #1 used hammer.

nice work. so ho do you like the smithing so far? do you have the "fever" and if so how bad

what is with this company? they do have very nice clean anvils, i want to know where they get them all, also what kind of gypsy magic they have working for them that they constantly fetch so much for there anvils and what not?

my non expert opinion is that there is so much heat in the piece that "little slack tub" couldnt quench fast enough to cause any warping. also what kind of medium is in the slack tub, also what temp is it. after all its not a thin knife blade but the largest forged piece i ever dreamed of seeing forged. that heat in in the center of the shaft or what ever it was surely would normalize and relive stess even slowly plunged in on a horizontal axsis(not to insult any bodys intellect but you put the most surface area in the fastest this way) . now imagine if it went in vertical and at the same slow speed, it would prob harden the leading end the most leaving the tailing end a bit cooler and there for its possible it wouldnt be at its criticall temp for hardening(if hardening is what they want to do), thus having such a temp diff for that amount of time whould most likely cause the most internal/ external stress ( at least in my very minimal experiance) also i dont think i saw the quench medium bubble or fizz in any way wich i think denotes a super slow cooling all around. also a good point was made about the milling looked as if it were done to a non hardend surface. so my 1,000,000$ ? is why would they not just make a cast steel mold then mill it to spec. now i know that forging something as opposed to melting and casting makes a stronger product ... man im loosing my train of thought does any of this make sence to you fine gentle men?

i cant under stand why pre heating the air supplied to the burner would make it more efficient, i know it peas and carrot comparison here but in cars u want cold air to be takin in, because cold air is more dense than warm or hot air. therefore it will have more oxygen per volume than the hot air.

that is so cool that is also a very good idea, so day when i have a power hammer i might try and rig that up

if i could get for 100-125 and i was just wanting to begin and learn the art, i would take it in a heart beat, its hard to find a deal on a good anvil, and a good deal is all most of us can afford these days. but good things do come to those who wait. i spent about a year and ahalf searching for that great deal on my first anvil and it paid off... i got a 100# peter wright pristine cond just a bit rusty, and a 150# wright that had been well used but is still a great anvil. all this for 200$. i couldnt give the money to the seller and leave quick enough. i gave high fives to my brother the whole way home i was so excited.

i had a third gen blacksmith tell me his family secret is to soak the thing in cider vingar, and he stressed cider vinegar and not white or any other kind. cover the whole thing in it for a few days, the pull it out and try and move the parts, then back in the cider vinegar. her swore up and down that it works like magic. itll get all fizzy and lots of black nasty crud will come to the top. i have a froze up champ 400 im gonna try it on this weekend. good luck.

dont have it yet, i sent off some money for him to hold it. so no in depth pics for a week or two. and it is very top heavy, even at 150-200#'s a child could knock it over. thats one reason the guy wants to sell it, his kids have almost done that a few times. he doesnt want it to be destroyed. he sent me a orignal advertisement but its to hard to read. its def a 1867 model. and i would guess these pre-date the internal geard blowers buy a few decades.

it bolts to the floor, and its HEAVY. i would say its about 150lbs maybe even 200. ive looked all over the net and cant find pics of it, but there was one just like it made by PENNA ELECTRIC. and the weird thing is the PENNA ELCT one was also made in lancaster PA. the same place that champion was made.

hey guys im going to pick this bad boy up, and i dont really know much about it, except that its the coolest old blower ive seen. does any body have any info. like how much there worth. its totally operational and stands about five feet tall. any input would awesome.

i just got a odd tip from a fellow that im buying a blower from, he swears that you soak it in apple cider vinger for a few days, make sure its completely coverd in it, pull it out and and try turning it some. it should give a little, put it back in and repeat till its unfroze. he says that while its soaking all kinds of nasty gunk will come to the top and it will fizzle a bit. im gonna try it on a froze up champ 400 i got for next to nothing at a auction. he says this is a family trick (he is a 3rd or 4th gen smith) and he emphasized that only use apple cider vinager and dont use white vinager.

i really like your work, im very into the darker side of art, once i get better at the art then i will deffinately be doing a lot of macab style stuff, im a big fan of hr giger. i first saw his work when i was a small child and to say i was very taken by his work would be an understatement. very nice stuff rider666

its def really cool, but it looks almost intimidating, at least from the view i have. do you ever have any problems with people not being able to see how the wine and glass' fit in there

well thats good to know why that rule applys for acetylene, i all ways thought that it was a freeze up issue with any compressed gas

really that was fisher?

also too peter wrights had a pattend on a 2 piece anvil body, so the horn and the heal and the face (but not the steel face plate) are one piece so that explains why the heavy sledging that happend on the horn did not break it off, a lesster anvil could very easaly had the horn banged off, its def a useable anvil and i love my PW's

i didnt read much of this thread here but is any one here familiar with the rule of 1/7th's. stating that you should never use your lp, acetylene or what ever gas at more than 1/7th its total bottle capacity an hour. so if your set up would empty your tank in about seven hours than your bound to get freeze up.

ya thats a nice one, would u mind telling me how much $ u spent in material?

i whole heatedly agree with Thomas, when i sell stuff i but a higher price on it to give room for haggleing as most people do. a lot of people try and sell thee anvils at antique prices, but they have to realize that 99% of us want to use them as a tool not as decorative antique. make and offer you feel comfortable with and if he says no then i doubt any body will buy that anvil at 4$ a lbs, wait a few weeks then hit him again. good luck