hans138

ya there can be a lot of "haters" on here, sometimes when i go through the critique section im shocked at how unconstrutive and mean spirited peoples critiques can be

i recently got a few peter wrights and i love them, that was the one item that was holding me back from starting my own forge, it took me a year of constant searching to find that great deal i knew was out there, congrats,have fun.

one company actually had a pattend on casting there steel faces to the cast steel bodys where thay actually had the molted cast iron "wash" or run over the steel face an its way into the mold. in not to sure why i worked better. maybe cause it heated the steel plate faster?

ive read anvils in america a bit and i dont think its a mouse hole because there would be deep punch marks between the numbers.

but doesn't brittleness depend on how its tempered

yup these guys took the words right out of my mouth, mostly just a few u bends some rivets and taperd bars with wax catchers. its a nice looking piece

i have a bunch of the H C stamped ones and i did a spark test compared to at coil spring, and i could not tell a diff at all between the two, but i know its not fool proof method

r u wanting the tube to be square or round. i just started messing with steel pipe like 2 weeks ago, one cool thing about it is as you draw it out the walls get thicker since the downward force causes it bunch up or upset set. so maybe start with way larger pipe, draw it out, i like squareing it up and drawing it out as opposed to fillling with sand or using a botttom swage, then twist while its squared up, andif you want it round, round it back out with a wood stump and wood mallet. that may do the trick but im sure there is a much more experienced smith who would have a better way

very nice! next month in school were doing pattern welding and were supposed to make a container. im really excited about it and i hope mine looks 1/1000th as good as yours

very nice, ive never heard of such a thing. i would agree with these words here, also have you tried experimenting with outher types of twists like pineapple maybe a nice rope twist. VERY cool looking, and functional to boot.

i would agree, this is why im here. although im familiar with the subject matters in this thread, im glad there are noligable people willing to share there knowlegde

ya thats my guess is delamination, especially if you only get that dead "thwack" sound from one part of it. but dont worry about it who nows how long its been like that. i could out last you

its crazy the prices people put on these things. sometimes i have to stop my self from sending them messages and letting them know how horribly wrong they are about value and actually usefulness.

correct me if im wrong but i believe that the rebound indicates hard ness. i know that for a fact. but i also believe that the rebound shows that the anvil is not absorbing much of the hammer blow, this is good because for every action there is a equal and opposite reaction, so when you swing with a downward blow, the anvil face "pushes" on the back side much harder than it would if you had one that was not as hard and didnt rebound as well. this is kinda my theory on that

man ists crazy how much people will charge for for anvil thats been rode hard and putaway wet. my girl friend and i went to an auction in central IL last year, i had 500 bucks on me and i was shocked how much the broken anvils were. people always seem to put crazy prices on anvil, especially folks who dont know about them, they are just like "hey i have this nice old antique anvil its a hundred pounds must be worth 500 dolllars. It took me about a year of CONSTANT craigslist and auctions to get a good deal. I was so excited when i did. i got a 90lbs and 150lbs peter wright in nice condition for 250$ it kept a smile on my face for weeks.

i have a ? why would a double bit axe not be as good as a single blade in combat. you would think that a double bit would be better balanced then say a "danish" style. i always thought that one of those would be hard to swing and keep the blade at 90degrees to your target. (cause all that weight on the front of the swing could cause the blade to turn towards the ground) ive chopped a number of trees down with a axe and i personally like the double bit style for that, its easier to keep the blade straight as you swing. also you have two blades, if one gets fouled up then turn it to the other side

boy i tell you what have you ever worked on a cast steel anvil OMG it lost its charm till i got some ear plugs in, it was such a loud high pitched ringing, but this anvil you need to watch your self, not good for a first timer. my 5th swing missed and i about busted my face open. i still havnt been on another anvil that had rebound like that one. it was a nimba i believe.

is the hay budden the anvil that was reputed to have no ring, even straight from the factory, or whould that be another brand?

thats a pretty good deal. anvils get so much more expensive when you get over the 180 lbs range. id say get it and put the hardie pritchel hole yoourself, plus its a rather unique anvil

it has really cool texture on it. man you got such a great deal on that swede anvil, that was the deal that ive been looking for. congrats. but bouy illl tell them anvils will ring your bell. my ears hurt one time i used one in classs and didnt have plugs in my ear for like 30 mins.

ya i would say that the standard price where im at in IL is about 100-125$ for a 4 1/2" inch vise. some times i see them for like 75. I gt real lucky and got a 5"er at a auction for 38$. your best bet if your on a tight budget is constantly search craigslist, i had to search for a year before i found that insane anvil deal i was praying to find (i ended up getting 2 peter wrights for 250). keep looking and youll get one soon enough

i believe your right on northern southern part i get those two mixed up. But dont austrian anvils have a sloped side, i thought that was what made the pattern "austrian". but now that i really look at it the base def looks austrian. Good call, and eye

all i can tell you is the bigger one is a north germany pattern, you can tell cause the horn has a smooth transition into the face of the anvil and i may be cast steel but dont quote me on that

man its crazy how anvil prices vary from region to region, where im at in southern il ive seen anvils with half there face missing along with the heel completely broke off go for 200$ even more. its a nice looking anvil but a 100# should be less than 300. and use the fact that your young and on a super small budget maybe hell think back and understand. also when any one sells something they price it way over what they want so ther is wiggle room for haggling. i recently got a 100# and a 158# peter wright of a guy and when i offered 250$ for both he jumped at price. which was cool but i showed me that i could have got it a bit cheaper

guys i just wanted to say that im glad every one here put in there twp cent and just for the record i really have no major animosity against mr hofi or what he does, i recently done a bit more research on this site and it was nice of him to show some techniques and i hope he shares more, and not just him but other people who would share there knowledge cause i know how people like to guard that info to have a heads up on the comp. my cousin the chef says all great chefs have no secrets.