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I Forge Iron

Prokopto

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Everything posted by Prokopto

  1. Hello iron-forgers, I have been away for many months because I was researching and writing and haven't lit my forge at home since last May. Well I have finished my master's program so now I am taking a couple of weeks off to just do whatever I want. Does anyone know where if there is a scrap yard in Richmond, VA that sells to the public? I need some material to make a few machines and jigs like c channel, i beams, box tubing, etc... Thanks, Bill
  2. sweet thanks everyone. Yes one of the reasons we are going to forge them is so that we can tell the kids (8-17 years of age) that we made them just to make real to them the way many pioneers had to make their own tools. Bill
  3. This... will 1/2" A36 or 1018 be strong enough?
  4. I cannot get an image to load and the url for one like it is not allowed. There is no option available to edit the post (as the image did not load the first time) so it is basically a simple brace with nothing other than a 4sided chuck for an auger type bit.
  5. Hi gents, I am going to forge a couple of Braces to use at our summer camp in the pioneering program and was wondering if regular 1/2" diameter cold rolled 1018 would be strong enough to resist the deflection of applied force while drilling medium sized holes in beams say... 1 1/4" holes in green timber. This pic is what I am after making. Bill
  6. Prokopto

    Broke my leg!

    Hi friends, I took my post vise off its post today to pack it up to go to Tennessee to a Christian summer camp and when I did the leg fell into two pieces about 3 inches below the pivot bolt. It looked as if it were cut with a water jet. Smooth in two it was. This post vise is a crucial part of my forge. I figure I can weld this but if it is wrought iron does that require any special rod types or preheating? I do not have pics but any help is appreciated, Thanks Bill
  7. Got the bit forged mostly working on drawing out the material for the socket when I get another chance to burn some Sewell Seam gold. The material at the socket end is nearly 5/8" thick so it's slow going.
  8. Great advise thanks. I am taking a lunch break. As a pastor I rarely get time to just play all day but since my children are out of school for a snow day I have to work from home today. So I got up early put in a few hours of administrative work and now it's play time for the rest of the day. So far (doing this all by hand with a 4lb hammer and a 168lb Isaiah Hill anvil) I have the width of the cutting edge drawn and yes I am leaving the 5/8" thick end for the socket. I will also be sure and allow plenty of material for the socket/ bit transition. I'm also making a little wood marking knife out of a scrap of 1095 while I wait for the thicker spring steel to heat up. Thanks for all the help. Bill
  9. Hello smithy types, I have a quick question: I am forging a couple of 3 1/2" wide timber slicks for a pioneering program I help teach at two youth camps in the summer. I have a few pieces of 5160 truck leaf spring that are 5/8" tapering to 1/4" thick. What is the best way to go about forging the sockets. Would it be best to roll the socket and forge weld it (I have gotten to about 90% success rate with fire welding) or would it be best to forge a socket from a piece of pipe and then forge weld it to a tang drawn on the chisel?
  10. Hi folks, I was given an old stevens single shot 12ga that is way beyond repair so I cut off the bit at the end with the bead sight hole and forged it into a ring. I polished it to 2000 grit and put Blue Wonder cold blue on it. I looks super cool (post a pic later today) but it has turned my finger rust orange. Is there a silver solder or something that can be applied to prevent this?
  11. wow that looks amazing. How did you get those elements cut out so cleanly?
  12. Thanks Frosty, I might just give it to her as a gift and charge for any more that anyone may want.
  13. That first anvil looks well used but I bet it would be great for drawing out larger stock in a hurry. What a blessing to find someone with so many anvils who was also willing to part with them for modest amounts of cash. I am currently trying to talk a fellow into selling me a PW that weighs about 200 lbs. He does not want to sell it and tells me that it really has no sentimental value and the kicker... he is completely vision impaired (blind). Hard to smith by feel I'd say... oh well it's his anvil someday maybe... someday... Anyway congrats.
  14. Got everything worked out and just purchased a set of "owner size" tanks today new and filled for $167. The tanks are 80cft I think I can't remember. The sizes are Q for the 02 and size 2AWQ for the C2H2
  15. It is also helpful to get to know the salesman on a first name basis. I don't mind helping pay for their kid's college I just don't want to pay for all of it. I have been quoted prices by different salesmen on the same day at the same distributor that varied by 100%.
  16. Do any here make letters to sell? This "S" took longer than I thought it would. I also made them a couple of nails to match the rivets as they intend to fasten it to the side of a little shed. What should one charge for such a piece?
  17. That thing looks amazing. Professional for sure.
  18. Thanks I will will check with the local guy first.
  19. Great thanks, I will venture over to Arcet or the local guy and see what happens. Is Tractor Supply an option or are they really expensive?
  20. Hi folks, simple question to all the vets out there... Are these oxy acetylene bottles clear to own and have re-certified and filled? I think they were last certified in '03 and I am not sure about the MGI. I hope that does not mean they are rental tanks. The Acetylene tank is around 8" in diameter and around 33" tall to the center of the valve. Oxy tank is about 4 feet tall.
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