Don A

I'm working on a job that requires two of these (1" x .5" the easy way): That comes out to nearly 24" of stock. They need to flatten at the ends slightly (where the rivets go) and then follow an eliptical, symetrical curve. I am kinda challenged when it comes to tools. I am working in a coal forge, and its hard to get a very long heat, and I don't have a jig of any sort. I have tried so far to do it free hand with benders or over the horn, but I keep ending up asymetrical or slightly twisted. I will eventually get it, but I'm at my day job right now, so I thought I'd holler for help and see if I could get any good tips before I get back at it. Thanks in advance, Don

Do some searching on "coin mokume" and "mokume gane". You''l find all sorts of info on heating and smooshing quarters. You will probably need at least a one-brick forge for the propane torch to work. I don't think you'll get enough heat using it free-hand. I have made a small stack with a one-brick and MAPP gas.

Great job on tapering that hex! Beautiful work.

Are you sure that is metal? I have a couple clay pipes, one from an original mold, and it looks identical except for the knot. I'm thinking a slip molded clay pipe could be formed and then knotted and then fired to give this effect. The one I have has a ebonized finish, so it has a sort of iron grey color to it.

Awesome (a word I don't use often). However, you must find a nobler name for it than "trinket box". That's like calling a Faberge an "easter egg".

Coal near Atlanta (looks like heating grade... better than nothing) http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/grd/2639365572.html

In reviewing some of the older threads, I notice that several folks have mentioned they use black stove polish as a finish for their iron work. I have, in the past, actually used it on an old stove, but never on my iron. Is it applied to hot (black heat) steel, or does it go on cold? Could it be successfully be sprayed with a clear-coat of clear enamel? I am finishing a piece that will see semi-outdoor exposure (partially covered patio type area). I want it to look like black iron, as in bee's wax or linseed, not opaque paint, but be able to withstand a bit more exposure. Any ideas are welcomed. Don

My 1st blower was a junk upright vacuum cleaner. I took the handle and bag and wheels and belt and all that stuff off until I just had the main body with the plastic outlet where the bag was attached. This outlet was oblong in shape, so I warmed it up with a plumber's torch and squeezed it round until it would go around a piece of 2" or 2.5" pvc pipe. I sealed the joint with duct tape and then plumbed it into the black iron pipe from the forge (far enough out that heat was not an issue). After this, I rewired the cord into a switch box and put a dimmer switch in the circuit. This was one of the cheap, round knob type you use for overhead lights... push click on, push click off, turn knob to increase or decrease speed of the vacuum. Some folks said this wouldn't work, but it was still going after 3 or four years of moderate use in a nasty environment. On high it would blow the coke out of the fire pot. I could adjust it down to just a low breeze. Standard disclaimer: Because it worked for me doesn't necessarily mean it's a good idea. You could shock yourself, burn something down, or blow something up. 'course I can say that about nearly everything I own :wacko:

That's some good, clean forging. I don't know how much meat you have left near the end, but a couple shallow grooves... one running in line with the main spine and another in line with top of the second step... both terminating near the tip. Kind of a step-down, double false edge deal. Does that make sense? Regardless... just rambling. Still, great hammer control and super clean lines.

Very classy presentation. Well done!

I actually hammered flat a pile of old 5-V metal roofing for the walls of my current forge (i.e. shed). You wouldn't necessarily need to flatten the ridges, but I was anticipating putting some wood siding on the outside later. I ready to expand to a bigger shop now and am looking hard at going with block walls.

I was thinking gargoyle instead of angel!

You can specify cold rolled 1018 and get it from my supplier. It's usually a next day order. 1018 is an actual content designation 10 = simple (no complex alloys) and 18 = .18% carbon (within a certain tolerance) Hot rolled is A-36. This is a structural designation. It's supposed to be in the "mild steel" range, but the actual content is a gamble. Think about all of those crushed cars you see being hauled down the interstate. We sell the scrap to China, they melt it and roll it, then sell it back to us as A-36 (perhaps an exagerated analogy, but you get the picture). Anyhow, I have seen hot rolled that will forge weld, and some that absolutely would not. Some will even harden when you quench it. Some will crack when you forge it, let alone quench it. A-36 is like a box of chocolates... you never know what you'll get.

Around here you can occasionally find someone on Craigslist that will let you tear down an old barn for the wood. Is there anyone close to you with a saw mill? I like the rough-cut boards, but you'll have to let them air dry (season) for a while before you nail 'em up. Pine or poplar would be good choices. Also, depending on just how "rustic" you want to go, some of the saw mill folks might give you a real deal on some pieces from their slab pile. These are the outer cuts with a good bit of bark still on them. I've seen some interesting applications of "slab siding".

I agree whole-heartedly, but y'all still need to watch this vid, if only for the inspiration:

Yeah, like Rob said, this is only MY tank until it's empty, then I swap. The vendor is responsible for upkeep on inspections and such.

Ok, stay off the O2 pedal when heating... got it. (now watch me forget that at a time when it matters most!) Thanks for the goof-proof tip Rob. George, I bit the bullet and bought a #3 oxygen bottle from our local Farmer's Co-op. It cost me about $250, but that's for the Gas Pony / tank swap deal. When I run empty, I just swap for a full one and pay for the gas. I bought myself a grill sized propane tank at Lowes. It was about $45, tank and gas. Same deal (Blue Rhino)... swap for a refill. Now, if I was going to use this a lot, I would have probably gone a different route. I don't anticipate using the torch a great deal. But the big-time gas dealer is about 45 min. (one way) from home; I can run to the Co-op on my lunch break. I can do a propane swap at the store that's 4 miles from my house. So I've probably paid a little extra, but the convienience is worth it to me. Other than that, I had to order a couple GPN tips from Airgas, along with a "T" rated hose. Everything else seems to be working like it's supposed to. Don

Well, I finally got everything pulled together and now have an operational oxy/propane rig. Thanks to everyone who offered advice and information. You guys know what you're talking about. I did a few test cuts on some scrap and was amazed at the performance, particularly with a fuel tank intended for a barbeque grill. A #1 tip would zip through a 1/2" bush hog blade like butter. I definitely need to work on my ability to cut straight, but it will cut nonetheless. Now another question: When you need localized heat, say a rivet head or to tweak a scroll or to isolate for an upset, do you ever just use your cutting torch or do you always switch to a rose-bud? I also have a welding end for the torch, and I know I won't be welding with propane, but would this work better for localized heat? Thanks again, Don

If you're using A-36 (hot rolled) from a steel supply or hardware store, I'd be careful about quenching unnecessarily. The actual steel content is a mixed bag, so sometimes quenching will crack it. especially in thinly worked areas (like fullered necks and split sections). I use my slack tub on an absolutely as-needed basis. If a couple minutes hanging from the horn or laying on the floor will accomplish the same thing, I stay out of the water.

Try zip discs on the angle grinder. You will be supprised how clean and efficient they will cut. Just be careful about getting them in a bind.

Very nice work.

I'd say it was very scientific. They were clear that they were using a single steel and varied heats to observe the result. It demonstrated their intention very well. If I wanted to know the same about 1045 or 5160 I would repeat the same experiment on each of them. Who knows... you might find something different. I'm grateful to folks that will go to that much trouble and then freely share their findings.

Check here: http://www.hightemptools.com/supplies-mainpage.html

Do some search and research on "coin mokume" or "mokume gane". This might give you some insight on the process of fusing nonferrous metals without completely melting them. I have "sweated" a stack of coins together in the forge, but it's more of a controlled preasure thing than hammering (like forge welding iron or steel).

I have used both files and sand paper on my anvil edges and a file around the hardy (small flat) and big pritchel (round file). What I have done, and would recommend, is to take a few minutes here and there and do a little radius work, and then work with it like that for a while. I was always afraid of setting out to do the finished job in one go. If you get carried away, it will be hard to put back what you took off. However, if you take it down a teeny bit and then work with it that way for a while, you can decide if it's good enough, or if you need a little more here or there. I still need to tweak the holes a bit... I don't like that hard, sharp machined edge. But I have slowly worked a nice graduated radius into the edges of the face. I've got it to about a 3/8" radius up front to nearly sharp at the tail end. Power tools are great, but they can get you into trouble very quick. File it, try it, file it some more until it suits you.