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Found 13 results

  1. This is my gas forge. When i started sevenish years ago, this forum taught me anything i needed to know. Thanks a bunch everyone. I have now finished my newest forge. Hopefully it lasts. Roughly 1 1/2" thick cast with 1" wool wrap for added measure. Measures 10" wide on the floor by 8 " tall by 14" deep. I made the ribbon burner as many others have. With my 27 hole (i beleive) at 5/16", it has a 2" opening in which the air and fuel are stuffed. The gas orifice is 1/16". I have yet to fully bring it up to temp.
  2. I have a forge with kaowool that is coated with satanite but it keeps nagging at me that fibres May still be getting out and I want to know if the forge is not in use do fibres still come off and into the air? The forge is in my shed where the workshop is along with a small gym and I want to know if the forge being in there will be putting dangerous fibres into the air just by it being in there or should I make a box and keep it outside? Please assume the forge is not coated if answering, thanks
  3. I've been researching the web and all of the forums and I've had a small hiccup with my first foundry build. I built a box of dirt foundry and ended up burning through the bottom of it and caught it on fire a little bit. I plan on modifying it but I picked up a 20 lbs propane tank today that has a valve issue and I got to thinking. Does anyone have experience with pouring plaster of Paris and play sand mix over kaowool for use in a charcoal foundry I'm only going to be melting mostly aluminum, brass, copper and possibly try my hand at making some bronze or aluminum bronze in the future once I get more practiced. I'm just beginning my journey into metal casting but I've done a ton of research and I've read a few things about casting refractory over kaowool but not plaster/sand mix. I know its better to buy a tested refractory I was just looking at alternative options. Any advice would be appreciated and thank you in advance.
  4. Hey gang, I got a hold of all these refractories for my single burner (3/4" T-burner) propane tank forge that I plan to build. I plan to put the 2600*f kaowool in the inner layer, and the 2300*f stuff on the outer layer. why both types? 2300*f was almost half price. 2sqft of 2600*F kaowool, 2sqft of 2300*F kaowool, one 500ml jar of ready mixed colloidal silica rigidizer, one 55# bag of MIZZOU CASTABLE PLUS, One gallon of premixed zirconium infrared coating (only $20, specifically called "ZK-W WASH") all this totalled to 145$ somehow! (5$ more than i was going to spend on one pint of itc100) I have a few questions. 1.) the zirconium wash's composition is as follows 97.5% ZrSiO4, 0.4% SiO2, 0.1% Al2O3. Is this normal/is any of this toxic cold or when heated/special precautions? 2.) I was told to pour (not trowel) the Mizzou in as thick a layer as possible ("it works better thicker"), up to 4 inches, and that a layer as thin as 1/2" would never work. is this correct? 3.) Should I mix this type of mizzou with Styrofoam to make it more insulating? 4.) is the 500ml jar of rigidizer enough for the propane tank forge? 5.) is there a good way to reduce the forge's internal diameter to the required 350 cu/in? I did the maths and I need to take off 1/2" from the radius. That's alot of questions, I know Thanks in advance
  5. So I ordered some Kast-o-lite but I'm a little confused with the directions I've found online-- the actual Kast-o-lite didn't come with directions. Could I get some help? What steps should I take to cast it? Also, will Kaowool get soaked up with wet Kast-o-lite? Would using Kaowool in the refractory help at all or not really? Also- If I cut up a bunch of scrap Kaowool and mixed it in randomly with the refractory (Kast-o-lite) wound that help the insulation of my forge?
  6. Hello all, I am going to start building my forge and I am just finishing ordering everything, I have a few questions about insulation. From what I have read, it seems like using ceramic wool is the easiest way to insulate a gas forge, I know it needs to be replaced once in a while because it wears down. Is it best to have 2" of insulation? And are you supposed to line the wool with refractory cement? Or just use straight wool? I know the stuff is bad for your lungs and I was wondering if it lets particles off in the air while it's burning. I plan on laying fire bricks on the very bottom of my forge. Thanks in advance.
  7. I am building a new furnace out of a keg, essentially following Brian Oltrogge's FIRE-KEG build. Instead of making the walls out of castable refractory as he did, I plan to use 2" kaowool and coat it will about 1/2" high temp mortar to shield it (and prevent any nasty health effects from heating the kaowool). I plan on using just a simple furnace mortar, the type that you pick up at a big box store, but I'm unsure how well it will work being only 1/2" thick. Does anyone have any experience with that? I know that Satanite would be the best option, but I would prefer to avoid that if I can since the cost plus shipping would be pushing my budget. Thanks for any insights!
  8. has any one used this brand http://www.walmart.com/ip/43062374?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227030820775&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=55974472856&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=99933964376&veh=sem if so any thoughts on it its about half the cost but that kinda scares me cause i know you get what you pay for (ok looked little more this only #6 but they have #8 for only $83 for 24" by 25')
  9. Ok, more questions. I'm not trying to be annoying, I just keep stumbling across concepts that I need to know that seem to already be known to many members of the forum and thus explanations are necessary for the uninitiated, like me. I've seen a few references to "buttering" the kaowool liner before applying compounds like ITC-100, and while the concept was vaguely expanded upon by Frosty in one thread I didn't really find it clear enough to understand exactly what's going on and how to do it. I got my #10 can from work today and popped a little window hole in the back in prep for lining it once I find a suitable ceramic blanket supplier (ebay is looking best right now at around 25 for a 1x12x24 chunk). Right now I just would like to get all the steps I need to take to be safe in lining it and avoid silicosis and the like down on paper so I can do it as safely and correctly as possible the first time around. So basically, my question is, how do you "butter" kaowool to prep it for compound? It seemed like it involved wetting the wool and possibly any firebricks that are getting a coat, but I'm not really clear on whether it's like, damp, or soaked, or what. Also do I apply the refractory while the materials are wet, or do I wait for them to dry out a bit? (On a side note, I am still looking for soft firebricks, I would like to put one on the bottom of my forge for a nice flat surface and can't seem to find a supplier who lists the brick specs and also takes non-bulk orders, so suggestions would be great). Thanks fellas. I'm really getting excited to start putting all this together.
  10. This is the first time I ever worked with this stuff. Just a few questions - am I supposed to just pack it lightly or was I right in compacting it, squashing into corners in order to get a tight fit? Second question - despite my best efforts, I now have fibers all over my arms and probably down into my unmentionables. Any secret cures for getting rid of the itch?
  11. Background I've built a break drum forge in my back yard. Currently I'm using metallurgical grade coal I get from a local supplier, I enjoy using coal a lot, but winter is coming, and I can't use it close to the house (girlfriend hates the smell/dust/smoke, sure the neighbors don't appreciate either). I have 2 old standard sized LP tanks, and I wish to make a forge out of one. I've already taken the proper precautions to make the tanks safe to work with. My Questions: I want to use a combination of insulating wool blanket and refractory cement, preferably a castable. How thick should the blanket layer be? How thick should the refractory layer be? Can I even use a castable for this, or do I need to use something that packs? My plan is to modify
  12. Mike Romo

    Mike Romo Propane Forge

    Homemade propane forge constructed from condemned oxygen cylinder. Length is approx 11". Lined with one inch layers of kaowool x 2. Rebar legs and carry handle.

    © Mike Romo, 2013

  13. I, together with some of my lodge brothers, am getting ready to build a forge. Does anybody know of a source for kaowool?
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