Don A

Be sure you get your heat even on the anneal. Clean any scale off before you drill. Use sharp bits. Lube your bits (I use lard for thin stock / small bit drilling). Low speed, firm pressure.

David's site: http://cedarloreforge.mymiddleearth.com/ Andy's FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/A-Davis-Metalworx/179500425482201

Chris, That is very nice. You definitely need to invest in a better camera... a knife like that deserves some pro pics. Great work. Don

A guy that lives up the road from me has a nice Champion blower on the original stand that came from the family blacksmith shop. It is an heirloom and far too precious to part with. It sits in his yard in his wife's flower bed.

I honestly don't see how Roy has any fingers left. He reaches and grabs like a curious kid, no matter who his guest is. And he works like a bull in a china shop, but his projects always come out great. I always enjoy the Woodwright's Shop, but I have to stay up 'til 11:00 to see it.

Those are really good first efforts. Very “blacksmithy”, and I mean that in a good way. I am still working toward forging closer to shape and not relying so heavily on stock removal. These are reminiscent of knives I have seen locally that were made on the night shift at the ALCOA plant in the early to mid 1900’s. They produced aluminum, so it was the natural material to be used for the handles. I have a roughly used aluminum handled hunting knife that my great uncle made for my grandfather in the 30’s or 40’s. I really like the integral bolsters as well. That’s another thing I want to get better at. Great job… now you’re hooked. Might as well get on with that sword. Don

Looks great Dave. Good work.

Good work. And I hear ya... I'm just finishing one with iron bolsters and they have been a pain. From now on it will be integral, pewter, or just plain bolster-less. What diameter steel did you start out with?

Hey, I think you and I had the same welding teacher! Really, your blower ain't too far removed from this one: http://knoxville.craigslist.org/atq/2989689738.html

That's gonna look great. Keep us posted.

Maybe some leads, thanks to the oracle of Google: http://www.steelmartatlanta.com/ With locations... in Gainesville, GA, we are convenient for easy pick ups with no minimum orders. http://www.yellowpages.com/gainesville-ga/mip/besco-steel-supply-inc-12796843 Besco Steel Supply, Gainesville, GA http://www.gemcitysteel.com/ Gem City Steel Supply was founded in 1978 and serves the steel needs of Atlanta and the Southeast. Call or contact any of these and see if they carry hot-rolled flats and round in useable sizes (1/8 up to 3/4" for starters). Ask if they have a minimum order, and then compare prices. I can usually get 10+ feet of stock from my steel supplier for what 4' would cost at Lowes or Home Depot.

Robert Lee on Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman was a blacksmith. I think I paid more attention to Dr. Quinn though.

The guy in every Western who pulls a red horseshoe from the forge, quenches it 'til the steam comes up, then proceeds to beat on it cold.

I see what you mean. I suppose that welding on a convex (2" ball) surface only complicates matters.

Saw that one on PaleoPlanet. Very nice work.

Greetings Mark. I think I see you occasionally on Fogg's forum. Welcome to Iforge. Glad to have you here. Don

When using a double lung / dual chamber bellows, always be sure you are pumping enough pressure to inflate the upper chamber, even if it's just a little bit. As long as there is air in the top, it will be blowing out. I have seen folks get caught up in watching a piece come up to heat and just barrreeelllyyy pump the bellows so that they were simply squeezing air out of the bottom with no top chamber inflation. When they let off the lever, as the bellows reenflates, it sucks forge heat straight into the bellows... not a good thing. As long as the bellows functions corrrectly, it should be blasting air out, never inhaling.

Thank you all for the advice. I can see that I need a lot more practice.

This is probably a rookie problem, hence the rookie question, but I am one of those "self taught" stick welders, and I have a puzzling situation. I have welded a ball (cut from a trailer hitch) to the end of a piece of 3/4" square. Seemed to go pretty good. However, I noticed a shallow cleft area that parallels the bead up on the ball. So I figure to hit it with a shallow grind and simply fill it with another bead. Well, as that one fills, another crevice forms above the new weld. This is not a sharp crack, but more of a soft-edged fissure. I'm using a Lincoln 225AC. I've tried both 7018's and 1611's... same problem. And I've backed down on my amperage about as low as I can go. Any ideas (besides "you need to go to welding school" <_< I know, I know. ) Thanks, Don

Now that's a design worth stealing! What type of steel are you using for your butcher?

Yeah, I live about 20 minutes from Pigeon Forge, and Dollywood and the Knife Works pretty well covers it. The Knife Works is well worth seeing if you're into knifes and have never been before: http://www.smkw.com/ Dollywood is a crowded, touristy mess (IMO), but the blacksmith shop is the one bright spot, if it's still as it used to be. Years ago they really did a great job in promoting their craft programs, but all of that went he way of roller-coasters and water parks. Rarely, they have a smith working in the forge at Cades Cove. If your up for a short road trip, come down to Vonore for the Fort Loudoun Garrison weekend: www.fortloudoun.com I'll be manning the forge on Saturday the 14th.

Clean and classy. Good work.

That is neat. The draft horse size should sell well in Texas... everything is bigger in Texas. Good work.

As above... learn to draw file (while learning blade geometry in the process). Sell some work, save some bucks, buy a good grinder.

Perhaps I just got lucky and the drill bit was ever so slightly undersized, but it does grip. I will remember to use card stock next time, just to be sure.