Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • MSN
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    At my forge in Tucson
  • Interests
    Vintage Rolex sports watches

Recent Profile Visitors

3,847 profile views
  1. Thanks Chris. Those photos were taken several years ago just after I had rebuilt it. Believe me, it's not that clean anymore but has proven to be a great hammer.
  2. This is how I did mine on my 100# ...I took cold rolled and cut just enough thread for the nuts and left the center section unthreaded so the adjuster bolts make contact with the unthreaded section. Dan Lehman
  3. Love hearing the history of these hammers. Very few machines made today (hammers or others) will live as long. Too much plastic and built in obsolencence. Dan
  4. My 50# hammer was shipped new in 1911 to the Kasmer and Mastell Mine in Garrison North Dakota. It made its way to Cotton Wood Arizona, then to Flagstaff Az. and then to Tucson. My 100# hammer shipped new in 1975 to Phelps Dodge, Hildalgo smelter in Animas New Mexico, then ended up at the Chino mine in Santa Rita New Mexico. I saved it before it went to scrap. Unfortunatly I wasn't able to save anything else out of the "Boiler" shop, which included a beautiful steam hammer, platten tables, hundreds of tongs, spring tools etc. The hammer is now safe in Tucson. Heck the history of the Chino mine is pretty darn interesting as well: From Wikipedia "The huge open-pit mine was once the largest in the world, but has been surpassed by Chuquicamata, and is perhaps the oldest mining site still being used in the American southwest. Apaches, Spaniards, Mexicans, and Americans have all obtained native copper and copper ore from this site, once known as the Santa Rita mine, and in the 19th century, a tunnel mine. The present-day open-pit mining operation was begun in 1910. It is the third oldest open pit copper mine in the world after the Bingham Canyon Mine and Chuquicamata." Dan
  5. Mike, Sounds good. I'll look for you at Harolds.I know what its like to sell a good hammer, not always easy. I sold my rebuilt 50# hammer to fund another which was a big mistake because the new hammer which I thought was a plug and play turned out to need quite a bit of work. I would have bought your hammer, but I'm trying to scale up. I'm currently on the hunt for something larger than my 100# L.G. and have been saving for it. I would love to find a complete running Nazel 2 or 3B that could use some work. I know I'll find one I just have to be patient. Take care, and you are more than welcome to contact me if you are working on something and need to use a hammer. Dan
  6. Glad you finally found a home for it. Me and some of the local guys talked about how nice a hammer it was. Either we were too broke or already had too many hammers to buy it. You just can't beat a nice plug and play hammer. Its suprising how much can be spent in time and parts getting one to look and run like that hammer. Whoever bought it is going to be very happy. Dan
  7. Same here on my 100# hammer. No springs on the treadle, there are two heavy springs, one on each side of the clutch fork. You can also play with shimming out the clutch blocks, however I think the addition of springs up top sould resolve your problem. Once you get it releasing properly, make sure to eliminate as much slop out of the linkage/treadle rod as possible. The less slop in the linkage, the better controll you will have with the hammer. And like peacock said...before you do any of the above, you need to get a zirk fitting on the shaft and grease that thing. Good luck, Dan
  8. Thanks, I had fun with making it, and being a visual person I wanted it to look interesting as well as be functional.. I thought using 3/4" button head rivets to construct it seemed appropriate.
  9. Here is the stand I made for my 450# Nimba. The shelf on the right pivots or is removed easily.
  10. I found one while staying on the small island of La Maddalena in Italy. It was a big one and in great condition. It was being used to fill a hole in the back yard wall of the house I was staying in! I think I could have found a better use for it. Dan
  11. Suboc

    Today's vise score

    Probably a good choice, I always hate when the box/screw gets in the way of the work, and having that taller jaw profile should help avoid that problem. I have a large Wilton offset vise that eliminates that problem, the jaws being well offset beyond the box/screw, but being a cast vise, I avoid hammering on it.
  12. Suboc

    Today's vise score

    Good going. I like the one on the far right. Looks like there is a lot of room between the jaws and the top of the screw box. Dan
  13. Picked this up a couple of weeks ago. The guy had a Harbor Freight bender for $100.00 and this #2 Di-Acro for $200.00 complete with boxes of dies, and other tools like hand held rivet sets, and several of these neat little bending jigs. The decision was easy. Dan
  14. No one claimed to be an expert here. Seems like most of the responses were just examples telling how they have done it.
  • Create New...