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Found 25 results

  1. I think this says CAST STEEL and WAR. However, I cannot make out the maker. Any ideas on the maker and the history? Images attached.
  2. Hi all, this my first axe/hatchet project. It is mild steel with a W2 bit. My forge welding skills are crap (especially in my gas forge) so I TIG welded the bit on after a failed attempt, thus the marks (I'm pretty new to that too). I kind of like it rustic anyway. I normalized once in ash and quenched once in warm water, then let the colour run back up the piece and cooled it again. Seems to work (no immediate chipping yet).
  3. Hey guys, here's one finished up recently. Forged from 10 in x 1.5 in x .5 in mild with a 2.5 x 1.5 x 3/8 in spring steel insert for the bit. I forged this to use with my chisel I forged a while back. We're adding a 125 year old red oak log cabin onto my parents log cabin from the 60's. The main goal of this project was to not only make some tools and use them the old way but to also put my heat treat through it's paces. This old red oak is hard... like $9 dollars worth of jawbreakers hard. So far, I'm completely ecstatic with how my heat treat is holding up. I did do this heat treat the old fashioned way though, not in my Paragon kiln. After quenching I waiting for my colors to change to where I wanted them and then quenched again. I know this is a pretty risky way to do a heat treat, but I really wanted to try things the old way. I did have to re-grind the chisel to have a bit less steep grind. The axe handle is proving to be a nice fit, too, being ash. I like working ash more than hickory, and it looks better to my eye. I've been using the axe to shave uneven surfaces and clean up the notches for our mortise and tenon on each log. Thanks for looking, guys! Happy Forging!
  4. Benton Frisse

    Viking Era Blacksmithing Class

    Took a Viking Era Blacksmithing class taught by Mr. Elmer Roush a few weeks ago. Great class! We went over mammen pattern axes, spears, arrowheads, and some other pattern axes. I was able to forge a large spear (my favorite exercise from the class), a mammen pattern axe, a mess of arrowheads (none of which I was super proud of, need more practice with those), and I managed to squeak in a tomahawk on the last day for fun! Great class, great facilities at John C. Campbell Folk School, great FOOD, and a truly inspiring, down to earth, helpful instructor and assistant. I can't wait to go back and learn more from Elmer. I've never forged a spear before but I think I truly enjoyed forging the spear more than I do axes, tomahawks, knives, or whatever. What a fun process! The spear, hawk, and axe are all A36 with 1095 welded cutting edges and bits. The arrowheads are all mild. Thanks for looking! Moderators, I put this in historical based on the title, my apologies if it is improperly located!
  5. Hi all. This is my first post...anyway. I'm restoring a old axe head for a friend the blade is going to need alot of grinding to get the pitch of the blade right. Iv heard that that will make the edge prone to chipping if not heat treated properly after. The butt of the axe is horably mushroomed but I want to use the mushrooming to make a good hammer head. I don't know how to heat treat it to get a good solid edge aswell as a sturdy hammer head on the other side? Any advise, comments or questions would be much appreciated!
  6. Finished this one a few weeks ago. Forged from 1x2x3 mild with a leaf spring bit. Found fractures from the spring, I think, once I was doing some final grinding. I worked the bit nice and hot, so I'm thinking it was from previous fractures. Came out right at a pound and a half and stuck it on a cheap Link handle from Rural King. Can't wait to make more like this, my Brent Bailey axe drift is my new favorite tool! Next time, i'll make sure I set my bit further back so I don't have that nasty line where the bit meets the mild steel. All welds are solid. it's a little dirty here, I had already gave it a few test runs.
  7. Hello, I am forging an axe with wrought iron (old weel tires and steel from an old agricultural machine, which is probably spring steel). I am using a coal forge and as a flux I am using some sort of welding powder which allows to forge weld at yellow temperatures. This is the set up: What I plan to do is: 1) remove the steel center wedge 2) forge weld proximal to the eye first 3) clean up everything again 4) insert the cold wedge into the hot body of the axe, I was thinking of doing this at a orange heat since my welding powder should be applied to red metal 5) forge weld again. Here are my questions: 1) I have trouble welding near to the eye, two reasons (according to me) are: - the eye needs to be heat up as well to reduce tension on the weld - the flux drips out if the eye is higher up in the forge and the rest, I need to put the eye lower in the forge Am I correct ? Do you have any tips on welding this ? 2) Do I risk creating a coal shut (cold shut ?) at the distal end of the axe ? Do I need to cut of clean the end of the axe body and the wedge ? 3) Is it better to "cut teeth" into the wedge for welding ? Is this just for holding the wedge or does it do something for the actual welding part ? Thanks for any help. Tips unrelated to my questions are of course also welcome!
  8. Ok so this is my first attempt at forging a small axe. Some friends of mine have recently taken up the hobby of axe throwing and everyone there uses these off the shelf home depot hatchets. So I wanted my friends to stand out a little bit. This was made using a bell pien hammer head. I forged out the whole thing by hand although I wish I had a press for the end even just to make the thing a little easier to hold onto with my tongs. I had to start out by holding the piece through the eye and started working out the axe and of it. This was definitely a mistake as I just couldn’t get a decent grip so a lot of my time was wasted fiddling with the hold I could get. Once I had the blade shaped I had initially intended to cut off the back part of the hammer but then I saw I picture online of an axe with a spike and I loved it so I drew that out. Quickly I realised that a square taper at the back was super easy to hold with my v bit tongs and so I forged the spike halfway and worked way more on the blade which helped out immensely with straightening out the blade and getting it to a shape I liked. Once that was done I finished forging out the spike. I used an angle grinder with a 40 grit flap disk to take out most of the deep hammer marks. I had never used the angle grinder before but it worked really well. Finally I heated up the whole thing to an orange heat and quenched the blade about half way up into the oil for a few seconds until the temp on the spike was a red then I dunked the rest of it into the oil. I still need to clean off the oil residue and put an edge on it but overall I like the shape so far.
  9. Just finished these two, and contemplating the handle for the bearded axe/hatchet. By the way, what is the difference between a hand axe, and a hatchet?
  10. Mjericho

    Axe I found half way up a tree.

    From the album: Just an axe I found

    I cut down a tree and this was stuck in the tree.
  11. Ladies and Gents this is one of very first projects I have undertaken and I am pretty pleased with the outcome, I don't know what to call it!!! I was given a piece of steel girder, cut one end off and started making the axe! There is a surprising amount of weight behind it but obviously it dosn't have enough weight behind it to be used as a splitter!! I still have a couple of pieces of girder left and was going to make a couple more axes! so please throw in any criticism as it is appreciated! Thanks - Don Kutter
  12. Double –bearded Slavo-Baltic hewing axe. Replica 11 AD. Blade width 145 mm. Weight 550 g. Body mild steel. Edge split welded with 0.9 % C steel. Pure forging. No grinding involved.
  13. Hello! So many beautiful axes in this thread, I feel completely humbled by all of the artistry. I am working towards making my first axe. I still have to make my drifts before I can do it, but hopefully soon after that I'll be starting. I had a couple of simple questions though; at least, hopefully simple questions. One, how many sizes of drift do you think I need? I have a slit punch that I made, but I am curious if I should do a 1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch drift, or if just a 3/4 and a 1 inch will do the job? Wouldn't be difficult to make the extra one, but I'm just curious what the experts think. I am leaning towards making square drifts for my first ones; seems like it will be easier to carve a square handle than a round one. Two, what type of wood do you prefer for your handles? I have 20-some wooded acres, so I imagine I have access to just about any kind of tree that grows in Southern Indiana, and I would like to source the handle material from something locally here on my property, and carve the handle myself. Even if it does wind up far more "rustic" than intended. :) Three, starting material. For ease of use, I thought that I might just pick up a 4" piece of 1x1 steel at the local warehouse. Rather than trying to forge my first hawk out of scrap that may require more work, (and skill,) I thought I might start with something simple and then move on to making them out of other things. I don't want to over-complicate my first one. I appreciate in advance any responses to this question, and I hope that I am not over-reaching with a project of this size at my current level of experience, (or lack thereof.)
  14. I wanted to share a recent project that I have been working on, I have been trying to make a wolf's tooth pattern axe and this was my first attempt which was a disaster on the side of the pattern but it still turned out to be a nice axe. This axe was wrapped and welded with a body of mild steel and an edge of 1095 and 15n20 with a central core of 1084 giving the edge about 32 layers. The head is 8 1/4 inches long and the edge is a little over 6 inches, with the weight of the whole axe sitting at about 4 pounds. The handle is hickory and measures 35 1/2 inches long. All comments are welcome thanks for looking. Oh also I did take photos step by step on the forging of this axe head so if anyone is interested in seeing the process I can post that in a separate thread.
  15. Hello, I Forge Iron community! So happy to join! I have a few questions, as I'm new to forging axes (but utterly obsessed). 1. I am considering a project where I pattern weld some coil spring steel together to use as a carbon insert tip for folded hawks. As long as my welds are solid (I know, I know. Easier said than done, right?) I shouldn't have any trouble with splitting or anything, right? I'm hoping to be able to see the pattern welded layers on the tip of the hawk. I think I've seen this before? 2. I'm all about recycling and upcycling steel. Generally, are lawn mower blades high carbon? Or are they just a bit harder than hot rolled or cold rolled steel? I've been given 3 of them from a zero-turn mower (and if they're carbon, I have more on the way). 3. I'm interested in forging historical blades, mainly from the Viking era. I'd like to forge mainly axes, but long blades and seax would be fun, too. Other than just giving it a whirl (in which I've gave a few stabs at), are there any literature pieces that you as a community like to refer people to? I have some in my library now, but always looking to expand :) 4. I've been hammering and smithing for about 2 years now, but only started forging and finishing axes in the last 6-7 months or so. I'm looking for some good chisels to do some metal carving/engraving into ax heads. Do you, as a community, have any that you find to be tried and true? Best recommendations? Thanks so much! Happy hammering! -Benton
  16. Hi, I recently excavated an old ax and when cleaned I found it had a maker's mark on the side. There are three, all the same and they look to be the letters I and O. Does anyone have any sources on ax maker's marks? Considering where this ax was found, I'm thinking it dates to the early 17th century but would like to ID it by the marks. Is this possible? Thanks!
  17. I made these recently. They're for my boss who kindly traded me some used iPhones. The smaller one was and old hatchet that I did cheat a bit on but the larger of them was made from a solid rectangle 7/8x2x6 1/2 ". Punched the eye and welded the bit :) the small one got rusty already which I know there are preventive measure for....
  18. Hi, I am newcomer in this forum so i guess that i had to introduce me to the other users. So i decided that the best way to do that is to show my work and put my new video for your observation. Hope you will like it an someone may found it useful. John. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2lvCcMlPQE
  19. Hi, my name is Johannes, I'm 17 years old and I live in Austria! Currently I visit a secondary technical school for blacksmiths and metallshapers,called "Höhere Technische Lehranstalt - Steyr" I want to show you a little axe i made in February this year, out of self-forged damascus steel. I twisted the steel-package 90° in the middle, so the layers were normal to the eye of the axe, as i chiseled and drifted it, and also the layers were parallel to the blade, as i spread the blade of the axe. It's very important for me, that you know that this a tool and no weapon. And it's also used as a tool, and doesn't lay in the glass case the whole time :D The beech-handle and the leather-sheath is also self made. Hope you like it, please feel free to write what you think about it :) best regards from Austria, Johannes
  20. Hello all! I wanted to share an axe that I made between yesterday and this morning. It is a wrap and weld construction made from 1/2 x 2 1/12 inch flat bar with a 3/16 x 2 1/2 inch piece of 1095 for the edge. The edge on this one is 5 3/4 inches long, the head is 8 inches long, and the handle is nearly 27 inches long made from curly maple. This axe is wicked sharp and I'll be sad to see it head out the door. :( Oh well I guess I will just have to make one for myself... P.S. The runes read "Chopper" Thanks for looking! Robert
  21. Christopher M

    medieval axe head

    I forged this one from a railroad spike and clay quenched the blade
  22. I am finishing up a blade to be used in an axe or spear that I made from a lawnmower blade. Its 13 inches long, 2 inches wide, & 1/4 inch thick. Of the 13 inches long, 9 will be blade. The tang goes 4 inches into the handle. The weight is 1 pound, 10.3 ounces. My issue is that I can’t seem to find a guide on what proportions a blade should be to the handle. I don’t want to mount it and then have to take apart again over and over if its not right. Any suggestions, videos, books, or places I can look? Thanks for the help.
  23. hello everyone im in the middle of comptomplating on if A-10 steel could be lap welded to make a billet then into an axe do you know how well of a steel this might be to use? and help would be appreiceiated. :)
  24. Okay yall. I need to know how to make an axe. All I have is a striker, made a drift for an axe today and I also got some new belts. I need to know what size of miterial to use and what tools I need. Here is the link of what I want to make Scandinavian Axe So if yall got any ideas or suggestions PLEASE TELL! Thanks, Steven
  25. Had a hard day at the forge so far, i started by making a new spring fuller that i am quite happy with. then i decided to start a couple hawks, there is where the problem starts.... what kind...how big....what steel....maybe WI? well i settled on some 3/4" mild that i would weld a bit into, i went to drill the holes to line up the slitter and broke 2 drill bits, oops, then forgot the mild in the fire when my mom called me into the house for a minute...great start all over, then i couldnt stick the weld... finally weld was done went to slit and my slitter cracked, drift....what drift? i dont have a hawk drift yet.... i give up come inside and now am typing this.... Josh the frustrated :/