doc

Johnson gas forges are gas hogs. Not what I would get if I were a hobbyist.

If you want to get around having the argument of not doing something illegal for the client,I've always told them that I'll build them whatever they want..........as long as I'm put on their home owners policy as ADDITIONALLY insured. But what I think your asking is how can you get away with stuff that does'nt seem to meet code.

Try posting your question on the Practical Machinist web site under the antique machine forum. Doc

Wayne, the language is Polish.

Thomas, OK I'll grant you that it is a recuprative forge as per your definition,but it is more. There is more gain in efficiency because of the fact that having the air injected below the venturie after it has been preheated and at velocity also increases the velocity of air coming thru the venturie thus increasing the velocity at the fuel jet which increases total efficiency. This is something that is not gained by simply preheating the incoming air to the burner. The only gain from simple induction preheat is thermal, with heated injection you gain thermal and volumetric efficiency. I'm not wanting to be argumentative here,just trying to point out that this design has more to offer than simple preheating like the Sandia design offers.

He is preheating compressed air and injecting it below the GAS mixing jet. Not really a recuprative burner where you use the exhaust gas to heat the incoming air for your burner because the air in this example is brought in at pressure below the venturie. The preheating causes the injected air to expand and along with it's already compressed pressure not only helps heat the incoming fuel mixture but also increases it's velocity by drawing more air in thru the primary opening at the mouth of the burner tube where the fuel mixing jet is located.

All your valving and ports in the cylinder should be 1/2" minimum inorder to get any type work out of your hammer.

How thick is the stone your anchoring to?

Absolutely perfect execution Frank!!!!

Here's another link.........http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/20235-bulldoze-bender/

Do exactly as you have done on the end grained wood or over the vise jaws as dablacksmith said. then turn the sheet over hammer down the bulge and punch again from that side,as you would if you were hot punching.I'd also advise to do this over the vise jaws using it as a bottom die.

The link above to cryogenic heat treating, may or may not be correct. I don't know enough about it, but considering how poor Mister Lasky's interpretation of the history of iron and steel is I' d have a tendency to take much of what he says with a grain of salt. :ph34r:

20"x 3.14 = 62.8/3 = 20.93 lay it out with your tape measure

The idea of drifting a hole is to stretch the metal not REMOVE IT. The slitting punch is designed to remove as little material as possible thus leaving the most material around the hole after drifting (stretching) for strength. Broaches are used cold where a very accurate and perhaps irregular shaped hole is needed or hot for similar reasons when the area around the opening is quite large and not an issue of requiring strength in its application. A pass through in grill work would be an example of where strength is needed or a hammer head where you're trying to remove as little weight as possible.

If you read the article attached with the photos of Peter forging the piece you will see that it says he had to search for a piece of 2-1/2" round inorder to start forging the hold down. There would be no reason to upset the corner starting with such a large stock size. In the first photo you can see that after forging to a rectangular cross section he has forged a taper away from where he is forming the corner....no upsetting involved. In the second pic he is starting the bend with the heat properly located in the bend area "only" before forging the taper,thus eliminating the problem mentioned by bigfoot. The metal is kept to the outside for the corner by forging the material on both ends down and away from where you want the corner to be.

Not a movie..........but on TV Burt Reynolds in Gunsmoke. guess I'm showing my age :unsure:

Try this link http://www.katanabuilders.com/katanablog/fuigo-box-bellows/ I've used a few box bellows and found them to work quite well and with less effort and maintenance than the traditional western leather bellows.

Hi all, I'd like to thank all who came to the Valley to help make our first PV, NJBA meet such a success !!!!!! Sam and I really appreciate all of your wonderful comments about our demos. I had a great time hosting the event and would like to especially thank Jose Torres for all his extra help both before and during the event. Great job on the burgers and dogs.....Jose!!! Doc

GNJC There is an early 19th/late18th century example at Old Sturbridge Village.You could contact their curatorial dept. and get more info.

The problem you are having is most likely caused by your tip overheating. With Oxy/ acetylene popping can be caused while welding simply by holding the torch tip at the wrong angle which causes it to overheat. A dirty tip or wrong fuel pressure mixture as mentioned above can be the causes but confining a tip in a small furnace as you describe is most likely causing the overheating of the tip due to back pressure and reflected heat at the tip. The back pressure is holding the mixture back into the tip and the overheating of the tip is forcing combustion inside the heat tube. If you don't have check valves on your regulators or torches this can definitely be a serious situation. Remember you're playing with acetylene an inherently unstable gas unlike propane. Be careful and find an alternative method to heat your furnace.

Your only jealous because the little voices talk to me :ph34r: Now I really am jealous I thought they ONLY spoke to me. :( Quote MultiQuote Blog This

" Does he always talk to himself when he is alone?" "I don't know, I was never with him when he was alone" :blink:

I second Francis for now, later stewartsmiths list would be good. Aspery's books will get you away from the completely basic background you have now and prepare you for whats in stewart's list.

Seems like there are two similar posts going on here. Check out Forgemasters solution to your problem. http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/26126-power-hammer-tooling-question/page__pid__268463#entry268463 Lillico also suggests this.

Here's one company that sharpens files. http://www.boggstool.com/ There's another in NC but I can't find the link.