doc

If you folks would read the initial post to this thread I think you'll find that Ciladog made no reference to age. He was talking about a general pervasive attitude of entitlement.

Thomas, I think you're right on to point about the value of our time. I just hope that you and everyone else who's posted on this thread find it their duty to be here rather than answering all the questions on other threads on this site. This might help to explain the huge number of views on this thread as compared to the small number of posts and their relationship to one another. :unsure: Doc

For hydraulic calcs. Check out this thread. http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulic.htm

Did you forge weld it or electric weld ?

Most period butterfly or dovetail hinges were forge from sheet stock about 14ga. not 1/8". The description Frank gave of how Peter does it is accurate.Often times period pieces were forged off strip stock which is evidenced by the chamfer on the end opposite the barrel of the hinge having been formed by a hardy cut.The chamfers along the edges with their stop checks in comparison were filed. The strip is folded around the pin back on itself and welded.Then is cross piened to broaden its width creating the dovetail shape and then clipped off on the hardy to again start another.The blade of the hinge is held in the vise and the pin driven out. While cross piening care must be taken to not get too close to the barrel of the hinge or it will stretched into a curve making it both difficult to get the pin out and to fit the joint properly.

Decided to google my own query. Exterior use of polyurethane varnish may be problematic due to its susceptibility to deterioration through ultra-violet (UV) light exposure. All clear or translucent varnishes, and indeed allfilm-polymer coatings (i.e., paint, stain, epoxy, synthetic plastic, etc.) are susceptible to this damage in varying degrees. Pigments in paints and stains protect against UV damage, while UV-absorbers are added to polyurethane and other varnishes (in particular "spar" varnish) to work against UV damage. Polyurethanes are typically the most resistant to water exposure, high humidity, temperature extremes, and fungus or mildew, which also adversely affect varnish and paint performance.

Just asking Bigfoot. I was always under the impression that Polyurethanes shouldn't be used for exterior finishes because in the long term polymers are broken down by the ultraviolet sun rays to monomers thus degrading the finish. I know these chemical compounds are constantly changing and this may no longer be true. So I was just wondering?

Larry ,I don't believe Sam is over thinking it. WE all are. :huh:

This is the method I think your speaking of. It's not really soldering but a form of fusion welding.The link will explain it better than I. First used by the Greeks it was also later used by the Romans http://www.artenero.com.au/7_finishing/weldbraze_15.html

Sam it's still here.

Sam, if you have access to a funky tablesaw you don't care too much about you can install an abrasive cutoff wheel, set your angles for your dovetails and by taking will light vertical cuts meaning raise the blade in increments you can cut some pretty accurate dovetails on a separate bar and install them like Bruce says.

Great!!! I'm glad you are able to do this, I'm not in the market for one now but Grant was the only place to find such a forge small shops. I wondered from whom and where we would get these if somebody like you didn't taken over. Thanks and good luck. Doc

Hey macbruce, whose the guy behind the Foster Grants? Looks like your really putting the Zipmax thru it's paces!

Geez I didn't see you quench you're hot chisel. :wacko: And where are the CATS their the best part of your videos?

Why not try tumbling rather than sand blasting.With the right media you can the finish you want and do multiple items while leaving the process unattended allowing you to work on other things as your pieces are being cleaned.

I might just not be able to resist.

Glad to see you got that and were able to make space in the shop for it. Now you'll have to put that disc cutter to good use! :rolleyes:

Basher, here in the states many of the guys use what they call a west coast drawing die. All they are is flat dies which are given a 7* taper along the entire perimeter that extends back from the edge about 3/8" to 1/2".I'd try this first if I were you because if you don't like all the other options you've metioned are still available to you. I have done this and like it.

Try posting this question on Practical Machinist web site.

Here's what I have

Great to see someone using a technique(pipeing) based on a result that most people only see as a negative. The use of pipeing to start the mandrel for DOM tubing is something they did back in the teens in industry. I don't know if this is still the process used. Good video ciladog

It's called a staking tool. Used in the watch making industry to stake axle shafts in gears and sometimes to punch small holes in nonferrous metals, sort of a miniature arbor press.The one pictured was most probably made by K&D co. they manufactured them for more than 120 years. I had a shop in the basement of their factory 30 years ago and used to make some items for them like crucible tongs etc;.

Great tutorial !! I like how you show making the inertia bend.

My understanding is Scagle was asked to make these for a sporting goods company that he sometimes made goods for. I don't necessarily think that Scagle himself even came up with the design but may have been asked to build them. I've also read where after making these none of the 12 made ever sold. I think the reasoning behind Ochs making one is that among ABS members Mr. Scagle is THE knife maker who came before Mr. Bill Moran. my 2 cents

Pictures would help in our ability to give you any idea of priceing. We don't even know if it's a double or single horn.