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Geez, I wasn't criticizing I was figuring that since it was an old building the client might have wanted it "look" traditional in construction. But the client is always right and we don't have time to educate them all!

Great job! But I'd like to see a couple of collars connecting the two scrolls on the vertical member.

The old saying "If ain't broke don't fix it" can be translated to " If ain't broke don't brake it."

I guess you must smoke at least two packs of Chesterfields a day with a couple of packs of Camels thrown in :huh:

Stephen, Sounds like a great project! Remember though if you don't have wrought iron you should use one of the leaded/free machining alloys because these threads aren't cut but swaged. A-36 or plain cold rolled will be too hard for this process.

If you can't TIG it I second the silver solder. Many years ago I did piece work on stainless maple syrup evaporator pans and we got our best results using silver solder.

Because a professional smith makes sure his hardy tools fit correctly and don't jump around. Thus eliminating another step in the process of hand forging production work where tooling is changed often. Or better yet he uses his tooling in a power hammer.

Very nice professional work!

That anvil is at least 200 hundred years old judging from the pattern and is in very good condition. I see no signs of abuse and it's appearance is exactly as should be for an anvil of that period and style.

OK idea, but you might want to wrap those magnets with plastic sheeting or some other way of covering them that will still allow them to attract your tools. If not they may become cover with forge scale and if you use a grinder in your shop they will deff become covered in grinding grit. The plastic can be taken off and the grit shaken away.

That anvil is much older than your Grandfather. It is what is termed in Postman's book as a "colonial" anvil. It's having no pritchel hole and of the early English pattern would date it pre-1830's. I would say it is very very good condition as well.

Larry , I wouldn't go much over the 25 ton if I were building the C frame. Maybe 30 tons? I built a 25 ton C frame from 1 1/4" plate and it flexes a considerable amount. Hasn't been a problem but can be disconcerting when on certain jobs you notice how much it moves :wacko:

Rberry1911 Your welcome for the link. Sorry didn't know you'd seen the rusty as you asked in your first post if any one knew where you could get plans and you gave a pic of a rusty. As far as will it forge 11/2-2 inch stock? You build the hammer as large as you'd like within reason so it will forge whatever size material you want.

Here is where you'll find the plans for the hammer you'd like to build http://www.appaltree.net/rusty/index.htm but from the questions you'r asking I think you've got a lot of reading/ learning to do before you attempt making one. Do you know anything about electricity, welding, or mechanics in general. If you don't you might want to find someone to build and install it for you or be ready for a long self taught course in basic mechanics and a start on your hammer about a year from now! And only then if you work very hard toward that end!

Great job Tim, Love that you took the time to do the decorative border line on the strap. Dick

It is made from the end of a pavement breaker jack hammer bit.

Dave, you're right about the stove pipe 8 would have been better but I understand your reasoning for the 6. Let's hope the taller pipe cures it's ills.

Dave , If you continue to have trouble with it drawing after you raise the top of the chimney, I'd check two things, the diameter of your flue pipe looks small for size of fire box and what is the opening space on your smoke shelf ?

Try these two ABANA affiliates closest to you, if there not close enought contact them and find out who is. I'm sure they'll know. www.appaltree.net/aba , http://rbfcmemphis.com sorry apparently the second one doesn't work. Copied off ABANA site go figure.

The only issue is that the full rise of the gate only occurs at a 90* opening of the gate. At any point between this position on either side of 90 it is less. That is why offsetting hinges can be used to make a self closing gate or door, or one that will also stay open if moved past 90 degrees from the closed position.

Hillbilly Why don't you PM SAMCRO here on the site? I think he'd be the most qualified to answer your question or send you to where you could find it.

Not sure what you mean by vertical forge but if this looks like what you want ? Then this is the one to build! http://www.dfoggknives.com/forge.htm

almus I think you'll find that most pewter alloys have antimony as an element in there make up. I don't believe that it is a metal that if used in a sensible way is anything to worry about.

Preheating to 400 shouldn't soften the face any if at all. After looking at your pics I'd make sure to grind back on the remaining part of the face to make certain there isn't still some delamination still there. Also be certain to remove all that rust down to clean iron before welding.

My approach would be to have a bar machined to form the ways and then weld/fab the rest up out of plate etc: