westernironworks

i know how everyone seems to use a standard compression coil spring but why not use leaf springs,i think it might be easier to make also. to answer your question i dont know exactly what spring you will need sorry.

so i am gonna be casting with a refractory cement for the top and bottom of my forge then the blanket around the walls. I should then coat this with a coating product like plistix? if so where could i get it from,its alittle over 2 square feet on the inside of my forge so however much would be necessary.

awesome use for scraps man.

yeah i am not doin anything new(now) just gonna go with a basic set of 3 burners with forced air thats gonna eventually have a heated pipe for more effiency. right now the forced air is gonna be run by my massive industrial air compressor but gonna get an electric blower when i can find one cheap enough.

To get it working fast i am not gonna run the air pipe around the exhaust at first but i am gonna make my exhaust hole round so it will be easy to match the pipe up to it later. I am hopin to have some pics up of this monster by the end of the week. i can never just go with something simple and small to start with hehe.

yeah i totally wasnt thinking that it would steel heat from the forge by putting it inside,i was just thinking it would heat up really good hehe. i bet as i was building it i would have realized but putting the line around the exhaust will do the job.

i have seen lots of forges and was trying to do burners like the ones i liked especially for fuel effiency. at the start i will be running the air from my air compressor until i get a fan i wanna use thats cheap enough.

well for the compressor i figured it wouldnt use alot of the air so the compressor would be turning on an off periodically but i suppose i could just get an electric fan for the forced air. I didnt think that the air line running through the forge would sap a ton of heat from it and keep it from reaching a very hot temp. i guess i will be running it around the exhaust then which is gonna be out the top of the forge. this is the exact reason why i posted here before i have gotten too far in the construction to change anything.

I am building my forge and i plan on making burning that have forced air from my air compressor. i was planning on running the air line piping through the inside of the forge but since it would melt i need to shield it some. i was planning on pouring refractory cement in the bottom and when i do i would run the piping through it so it would get shielded from the full heat of the forge. I will use 316 stainless steel pipe and how deep in the cement should i put it. i was thinking of having at least 1/8th inch of cement over the pipe or should it be more. i want it to get super hot but not to hot to soften the pipe so much it would burst from the low air pressure i would be running through it.

you can build a kinyon type powered hammer for under $200 but you need a welder to assemble and you would also need an air compressor to run it.

would the one in my link be a good thermometer for my forge for heat treating? http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Type-Digital-Thermometer-thermodetector-TM-902C-Thermocouple-Probe-/180852232557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1ba2116d

the shoulders on that armor would be attached to the shoulder strap that is from the breastplate to the backplate. i make armor for a living and i will gladly share my experience. for blackening I use a gun blueing kit that you can get from any place that sells guns for less then $10.

yeah i ordered a new 1/2" valve and a mechanical switch today so I will be ordering another 14inch stroke piston to make a basic kinyon type hammer for sale since i have all the parts but the piston itself.

fixed

Ok i have removed almost all the slop and it still stutter at the switching point. i am thinking it might be because i have a magnetic switch which works too fast,thinkin about buying a new valve and a mechanical switch. http://www.facebook....=timelineSingle